Hey man. Great build. I just started a very similar bike- 68TR6 hardtail bobber. Wanted to ask you about your tires. What did you go with? Did you use stick rims? Thanks!
There are tools made to remove the shuttle valve one can be made, The fork tube can be held in an old triple tree top off any motorcycle just pack it out with soft material aluminum, or plastic if it is to big and tighten. then put it in the vice don't put the fork tube in the vice bad idea...
I see what you're saying but there is no way if the fork tube is old and crusted together for that to work, a triple tree usually has a smooth hole, all that would have done is make the fork tube spin in the triple tree. This was years ago but I remember having to use an immense amount of heat and kroil to get that out. Holding it in the vice is inevitable. Sometimes you just have to risk things. That is a good idea what you mentioned but for most people they haven't been taken apart since the factory put them together. Unless you have a triple tree with some teeth on it then I don't see any other way other than the vice.
I run points on my 1955 panhead. This bike was built for an everyday rider. Didn't feel like having to deal with burning out condensers or dealing with points on the road.
T120 tr6 single carb has a much heavier crank than the bonny so you can't replace carbs and say its a bonny it is what it is and that's fantastic..be happy...
They are the same crank. Only difference was the carbs. Part numbers are the exact same for tiger and Bonneville crank. I have 3 extra motors from a tiger and Bonneville. Both cranks are exact same only difference is the motor numbers and cylinder head. But thanks. Unfortunately I sold this bike about a year ago.
These bikes (any Trumpet build, be it a reconditioned stock build, a chopper with a springer front end and aftet market bolt-on hard tail, a partially stock looking Bob - job, or whatever) are just wonderfully simple, yet still temperamental, (those dual - Amal heads scream if you know how dial em in!) love the old Triumph bike; I rode a chopped 750 Bonny for years, Had a 500 and 650 basket case, ( sadly, all got traded for a couple basket Harleys) Im so glad to see ppl still building and posting these marvelous bikes in 2023, (Actually some of thebnew triumphs look Sweet) Thanks for posting this, please leave it up
Looks like you have a oretty good shop to do this kinda stuff in, this is one area im lacking in ... I recall my 750 having two top parts, one was on the motor when I got it, was for single carb, then the og, was for dual carbs. , Which i had (2 Amals) a single Mikuni was on the bike Had a aftermarket bolt on jard tail , i really miss that chopper; the front was specially custom made, a springer , looked really sweet , rode nice
Nice to see info out here on these things! . I had a 500 & 650 basket case and a running 750 bonny chopper, long story short , I had injuries that kept me from riding so I get rid of all my motorcycle stuff, Now I'm older, I was to restore / build some kinda trumpet , & ride it a few years, Maybe even a flathead HD, not sure ,keep leaning towards a trumpet, or a Beezer even (BSA,or Norton) love the simplicity and lightweight motors, they really fly tho, love these motors and bikes.. Thanks for the video, subbed and liked LOVE your bike man, it's a dandy IMHO
The last part you didn't show (Grease retainer W1635), Did you install it or leave it out? If the sealed bearing is over around 5 thousands of an inch (Which you shaved off) and I'm gonna guess that the grease retainer is around 1/32" thick do you really need it as a "Spacer"? I've had trouble with my speedo drive. It looked like the speedo adaptor wasn't screwed in far enough. I un-screwed it to discover that a previous owner must have replace the bearings and muffed up, Grease retainers W1635 and W1654 were installed in reverse order. So the "Inner" cupped retainer was on the outer side of the barring not allowing the speedo adapter to thread all the way in. Looks like I'm going to have to knock the bearings out so I'm going to up grade to the sealed bearings. I'm going to order all the grease retainers and rings to play it safe, but looking for input on installation arrangements for a proper fit.
Dear Sir, One thing you want to check when you install the "Bronze" bushings in the fork leg is to check for any extra side to side clearance, i remade mine to a tighter tolerance Because ,Even though they are new bushings they could be Machined over resulting in a lower fork legs that have to much clearance between the stanchion and the bushing that affects handling . with a front end that is not stable like it should be. I machined mine so when the lower fork leg is assembled that it is a sliding fit with no discernible play, it made a world of difference. Just a tip that can help all who are assembling the Triumph forks.
Great video! Might have to replace bearings one day but I'm still trying to figure out how to refit the back wheel on to the bike. Questions I have: How tight should the two inner spindle nuts be (one for the brake anchor plate and other between speedometer drive and swinging arm)? How to align the brake anchor plate to the brake drum? Wheel alignment? Would be greatly appreciated if you could help out with this.
I have a 1964TR6 650 it had a peanut tank. I gave it to someone to paint he moved and I lost my tank. I like yours. Do you have any idea where I can find one
The tank on this bike is an original triumph tank. However I do have peanut tanks also. I have one on my panhead. Are you referring to the old wassell peanut tanks? You can find them on ebay. They also sell reproduction ones same dimensions on lowbrow customs. But I prefer the original peanut tanks. If you like the tank on this bike you can find those also. Just a regular original triumph tiger / Bonneville tank from the 60s-70s. You can find those on Ebay too.
@@alvinkappel9646 I saw a guy do a video on the Indian tanks he found them to be quite good at a good price. I'm sure your tank has been on for months
Thank you. Is there a photo of the bike? Would like to see it. Went for Just a classic bobber look. I'm trying to find a pre unit motor to build a similar one.
Only had to shave maybe 5 thou off the spacer and i think that was due to the aftermarket bearings being thicker than OEM when i compared them.. The dust covers also work as a spacers and shims to keep the bearing seated where it needs to be. That's why I put them in. But your right I have seen people not use them.
Hello good sir wonderful video! I was wondering; The long pin that has that weird shaped clip on it. What knotch do you put that clip on or does it even matter?
That's your throttle needle. And yes the position of that clip matters. It controls how rich or how lean your bike will run at about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Start off with Putting that little clip in the middle position on the needle notches. There should be 5, put it in the middle and see how your bike runs. If the bike is running to rich your going to want to raise the clip a notch UP to the 1 or 2 position. If it's running to lean your going to want to move the clip DOWN on the notch to the 4 and 5 position. Every motorcycle is a little different especially these old triumphs. But the middle clip position should be ok plus or minus a position of 1 from the middle. I hope this helps if it sounds confusing I can break it down a little more for you. Thanks for the support 👍🏻.
Building my Triumph bobber again now. How did you bolt on your hardtail? Mine has 2 bolts on each side. I was considering running a tube between the front bolts and running a long bolt through it for extra bracing. I road it years ago and notice a lot of flexing in turns.
You talking about the top hardtail motor mount? Or bottoms? The top of my hardtail frame was split and the main frame sandwiched between it. I ran just a regular 3/8 course bolt through that. And the bottom mounts botled directly to the stock mounts on the main frame. Never had a problem with flexing or anything.
I am getting ready to take over someones 1964 BSA Project, he was replacing motor with a Ran when pulled Motor that he at least installed and kicked over to insure would Fire, but needs electrical gone through or replaced, but has coils and Mity Max Power Control Module, surely going to need new fuel lines and Clutch cables but is a Springer Chopper with Diamond Tank and something I am looking forward to. Nice thing is, if I have issues Weems Motorcycles a British Specialist in a few hours away and volunteered to provide Email guidance if needed
Thanks for posting this video. I just picked up a springer for my panhead frame but don't have the "cone" you mentioned to keep the bearings from being loose. Where can I order that?
I'm having trouble finding it. The old harley parts book I have is showing me a part number of 2755-36 for what your looking for but I can't find it on ebay or anywhere. Best bet is to either make one on a lathe or try to source a used one from someone. All the OEM springers I've bought had that cone on them. Also this W&W springer in the video that I bought came with it also so i never had to look for one. Maybe try contacting W&W I bet they can help. They have tremendous customer service. I'm sure they can hook you up with one.
@@TrippyTro yes on stock FPR. pushing 398 at the wheels. Full bolt ons and e85. But I'd go with the 450 that way you don't have to worry about swapping pumps again if you want to build more power. Walboro 450 is good for 700 plus hp.
What do you mean? Steering stop? Your OEM springer and OEM frame has a built in stop welded onto them. If you turn your bars all the way to one side or the other they will hit the circular pad that's cast onto the neck of the frame and flat stop on the springer. No need for an internal stopper. The frame and big twin springer has stoppers externally cast onto them.
@@jameseschborn254 ok. So are you trying to put a springer on your 71 frame? What makes you think the neck was molested? Does the neck look cut and welded? It may be raked or deraked. Unless a different neck was welded on that frame witch is unlikely it should have the same neck as the one in my video and described. Harley used the same neck on there bikes all the way from 1936 past 1971. I had a 1972 Harley frame a few months ago and it had the same style neck as my 1948 wishbone panhead frame. So it hadn't changed. Harley used that same neck all the way up until the late 70s I think but I'm not sure on witch year but I know for a fact your 71 should have that same neck because my 72 frame did and it was genuine unmolested frame. This is why springer and telescopic are interchangeable. If I want to throw a set of narrow Glide trees on my 48 or 54 panhead frames they would fit no problem. So unless the neck was changed or its not a genuine Harley Davidson OEM frame a springer should fit on your 71 Frame. Lmk if this helps. 👍🏻 Goodluck to you sir.
Manual lists 5/8 of a pint witch is equivalent to 10 oz. But that's just one way of doing it. You can also take out the check bolt on the primary and fill the primary up until it starts seeping out that check hole. Put the check bolt back in and your good. But if you don't want to do that it's 5/8 of a pint witch like I said above is roughly equivalent to 10 ounces. If you need pictures from my manual you can send me a DM on Instagram @ "Dmessineo_"
What happen if you don’t have the connector for the pump can you still butt splice the wires to the oem and the fuel pump wires?? Hope you can reply soon.
@@Snorky_88 like you know how the fuel pump already has a connector built into it, will it be fine if I cut off the connector off and use butt splice to the black to black wires and green or blue wires to red wires?
@@Snorky_88 cause mine didn’t come with the second connection that connect to the fuel and if i order it now, I don’t think it’ll be here on time since I’ll be tuning The car this weekend
@@marcosleon5498 is there any particular reasons why u want to do it this way? As long as your pump wires are hooked up the that connector (blue and black) you should be fine. The only purpose that red and black male and female connector is there so you can unplug the pump if you needed to take it out in the future instead of cutting the wire. I wouldn't splice it thought. I would crimp it and heat shrink it.
It all depends on witch oil tank your using is it stock? Or aftermarket? Stock is 3 liters but i have a little smaller one so i fill it up about a little more than 3/4 but make sure there is still air in the tank to be able to breathe. it is fed by the oil pump. It gets sucked through the tank, thru the filter into the line pumped through the motor and returned back to the tank. If you start the bike and open up the oil cap you will see the oil returning back into the tank through the stand pipe.
@@Snorky_88 I believe it to be stock! I just wanted to make sure. So the process is fill the oil tank, then the oil pump should circulate the oil when you kick it post oil change?
@@user-rw1vv7ph5w yes fill the tank up. If it's stock oil tank my manual says 3 liters. So fill it up and start the bike. If you want to make sure the oil pump is working and the oil circulating remove the oil cap and shine a flash light in the hole while the bikes running you should see oil coming out of the stand pipe returning back into the tank. It's a big cycle. The oil feeds into the motor lubricates the moving parts, and returns to the tank. As long as your returning oil to the tank your good. Also If your bike still has the oil pressure gauge make sure the pressure is the correct psi. If you want any information I can send you pictures from my manual
I like to drill a hole opposite of the air screw to gain access to the pilot jet. Then just tap the hole and put a screw in the hole for future cleaning. Makes the job really easy and isn't hard to do.
Just to be clear, the one you have to destroy to get the bearing out is the grease retainer part 37-1474 not the backing ring 37-1022, right? Trying to figure out what to order before I do this job. Thanks.
So you don't drain anything from the bottom (that big hex nut with the filter attached?) I've heard not much oil actually comes out of there, so a lot people don't bother with it, they just drain the oil tank.
I guess you don't have to. But the proper way is to drain it anyway. Especially if it's pretty dirty you don't want it mixing with your new oil. There's small metal shavings in every oil change you do. I use a magnetic drain plug and drain the crankcase every oil change. Especially if it's a new rebuild and on your first 5 oil changes. However doing it without draining the crankcase isn't the end of world and probally wouldn't hurt anything. Good rule of thumb is allways follow what my service manual says. If it says to drain the crankcase I do. For example my 1955 Harley Davidson panhead doesn't say to drain the crankcase in the manual so I don't, even though there is a drain bolt. But triumph says to on there 650's so I do. Hope this helps. 👍🏻
@@Snorky_88 @@Snorky_88 Thanks... that makes sense. I'm planning on draining the crankcase when I change the oil this weekend, but I didn't see you do it in the video so I figured I'd ask. (Maybe you didn't film that part.) I bought my first Triumph last year, a 1964 TR6. It's a great bike. I saw your video about changing the rear wheel bearings...good to know I should pick up an extra grease retainer/washer. I didn't realized I'd have to destroy it to get the bearing out. (Is that the case even with I blind bearing puller?) I replaced the bearings on the front wheel and was able to reuse those parts.
@@daveco1270 yeah sorry about that. I didn't even realize until you brought that to my attention. And I can't remember if I used my bearing puller or not. I think I just went by what the manual said.
Nice. And this bike I used a W&W Samwell supplies big twin inline springer made in Poland. Definitely the best aftermarket made ones out there. But In the past I've used only OEM springers. Same process and it was almost impossible to tell the difference between the OEM knucklehead springer I had when compared to the W&W one used in the video. Nothing like the tawain tedd crap that has fitment issues. The motor is my 55 FLH and frame is a 1954 straight leg frame. If you got any questions let me know. There's many different options to consider when it comes to springers.
