This is the Shed Chronicles. This channel focuses on the different things I make in my shed. Whether it's lures, knifes, furniture, or whatever I feel like making or that is recommended.
@TheShedChronicles when you put the oil base you paint on top or you remove it also look that in some lures you use glue instead of the oil base what kind of glue it is I'm trying to make my wooden lures for jobi
Tip for your future builds. If you have any female family members, friends, classmates or nice neighbors that polish their nails you could ask for some nail polish remover. Most of it has acetone which usually works well for removing super glue.
Dude, I used to work a full-time job, a part-time job, and go to school all day. I know what you mean! After a week, I gave my two-week notice at the part-time job and held out for graduation. Loved seeing the float test in the tank. Would have even been better to hear your thought process while working through it. It is ballasted and balance very well. One main difference between a glide bait and a swim bait is the angle at which the lure can bend. A glide bait will only bend about 15° +/-, however a swim bait will flex much farther. The angle at which the joint can move is controlled by the gap between the the segments. The greater the distance between segments, the more freedom of movement it has, inversely, the closer they are together the less movement the joint has. The less of an angle in a joint, the wider and longer its glide path, likewise, the further a joint can bend the narrower and shorter the swim path and thus a swim bait. Another notable difference, glide baits are weighted to be neutrally buoyant or very slow floating/sinking. Whereas swim baits are normally moderate sinkers since they are retrieved at a higher rate of speed. I really liked this build. Nice job!
Excellent work! You are exactly right. Lexan Polycarbonate is an extremely durable material, and practically unbreakable... until you use Super Glue. Good call on switching to epoxy. What a mean looking lure. Hope it catches the bigguns!
Had a funny thought while the lure was in the test tank... The tank looks like a cross between a Fish Tank and a Hamster Cage. 😅 Just a bit of humor. When I check for buoyancy I have all the hardware on my lure, including hooks and split rings. This is more critical on smaller lures, maybe not as much on your Ghost Shark. Any number of things can cause the clear coat to flub up, oils from touching the lure, dust, humidity, etc. A second clear coat usually fixes it. When applying a second coat, you can do it when the first coat is completely set but not completely cured, to get a chemical bond. Or, if the first coat has completely cured, it is best to give it a light scuffing with a fine grit sandpaper or a Scotch-Brite pad to promote a mechanical bond for additional paint and clear coating to stick to. A high gloss surface does not accept bonding as well. I'm trying to not be too critical with my comments because I like your out-of-the-box thinking on this one! I hope that this is a learning experience and that this lure attracts a bite. When you made the rattle chamber in a segmented lure, I wasn't sure that there would be enough "violent" action, like there is with a crankbait, to actually shake the rattle. The front joint probably needed a bit more space between the head and mid sections to allow for more movement, like you have with the tail. I've learned from past lure builds that fins have a tendency to cause enough frictional resistance and drag in the water to kill much of the action of the lure. I not longer put side fins on, they are carved or painted. And fins on the top or bottom and usually a bit smaller than real-life proportions to keep them low profile. I tend to be a bit wordy, and hope to not come off as bossy or know-it-all, just trying to help. With all that said though, I did quite enjoy following along with this build and would appreciate hearing your thoughts on the lure and any of the points I've made, as you were able to hold it and cast it, where I was not. Thanks for the post! 🙂
I definitly need to clean out the test tank lol. I do really appreciate your criticisms, they are very constructive and helpful! Definitely things I wasn't thinking about but with absolutely keep in mind in the future. I'll try to give some more of my thoughts, I just get lost in some good music while I'm working and get carried away.
Looks like I may be your first subscriber. You've made three lure making videos, which I mentioned earlier is what I like to watch. This crankbait didn't appear to swim properly and I believe I know why. One of my early crankbaits did the same thing. Go look online at photos of store-bought crankbaits and check for this one thing: The line ties on crankbaits with long bibs/lips, and especially ones designed to be deep divers, will be one-third to one-half the way down the bib/lip. Your line-tie is located on the nose of the lure body which makes the lure want to body-roll, instead of dive and wobble. Try putting a line-tie out on the bib/lip and you'll see a big difference in action. Good luck, this is a fun craft!
Thank you for subscribing! I did try to do that with the line tie on the last crankbait that I did (Even though the lip was way smaller lol) and I don't know why I didn't do it on this one. That probably would've had it working pretty well. This definitely is a fun craft!
@@TheShedChronicles Chalk this one up as a learning experience. Because these last two have different line tie placements, you can easily see the difference it makes. You can still "mod" this lure. Either cut off or leave the original line tie, and add a new one like you made earlier. I wouldn't go as far out on the bib/lip this time. Looking forward to the next build!
I make wooden lures and like to watch videos of others making them. This is how I found your channel. This is the first and only video on your channel and there's no description explaining the focus of your channel. So, I would like to know what types of videos do you plan on posting in the future? Thanks. It's a little difficult to tell the sink rate of the lure from a top-down view. A side view would allow viewers to see both the sink rate and the balance of the lure. For swimbaits, I like a slightly quicker fall to them than what I believe yours may have been. Glidebaits do well as a slow-sink or suspend because you pull and pause, pull and pause. But with swimbaits you are mostly pulling them in and maybe occasionally pausing, and if there's not enough weight they will rise to the top of the water instead of staying down and swimming. You are correct! You future lures will look and perform better and it doesn't take long to get them there. But we are our own biggest critiques. I still hope mine with get better. 😉
Thank you for watching my video! I plan on making videos on whatever I make in my shed. My next video I plan on making a bowie knife but I am going to make a lot of lures. Yeah I didn't get the best camera angles but I am going to focus on tat in the future. I definitely should have added some more weight to the lure. I really appreciate your comment!
