Taking a break from homesteading after fighting cancer the last year to focus on my bucket list items. Cancer changed me and made me realize there must be more to life than working 2 jobs, over 100 hours a week the last 6 years. Cancer made me realize we aren't promised tomorrow and that I needed to enjoy life more. So this channel will be about how I bought a used conversion van, completely gutted it, built it for long distance stealth van travel, and my goal is to visit all of the national parks with side excursions in-between. Subscribe .... because my story isn't over yet!
Hi guys, got my van 2 weeks ago and I’m finally going to go on my first adventure. It’s an 07 Ford E-250 Super Duty carrying a set up of a queen bed frame, some cabinet space, small shower and a kitchen. It has this tire set up Highway Terrain Plus LT245/75R16 120/116S wanted to know what the recommended psi if its a camper van set up. When on google and Reddit and got a bunch of diff information. If anyone can help that would be awesome.
Hello I tried doing exactly what you said and nothing. Everything was working fine the other day and today i went to open my doors and zip, nada... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Ty
I looked like crap back in the cancer fighting days ... omg. idk why but I don't always get notifications of comments so just now seeing this. Have you tried all the normal "check fuses - #5 20 amp in passenger fuse compartment", check keyfob battery, etc? When you cycle the key 8 times, do the doors lock and then unlock? If they do but the keyfob won't program, its something wrong with the keyfob. If they don't lock and unlock when you cycle the key, its either something with the wiring or the module. So, the next thing i would do is check power and ground to the keyless entry module which is located in the wall or maybe the floor behind the drivers seat (if my memory is correct)
I've heard of a method of drawing a line across a tire with some chalk/paint/whatever then driving around the block then checking to see where the line wore off. Seems easier than figuring out the depth of posder on the pavement.
yep, when I was a full time auto mechanic, that is one of the methods we used to make sure the paint wears evenly across the tire. There are a lot of ways and finding one that is convenient for what you currently have on hand so you don't have to buy something should be easy to do.
truthfully I was testing new video equipment and to be honest I ruined all the audio footage so I just made this snap cuts to have something .... more to come
is it the same year? Earlier and later model ford e series have different instructions than this one .... if its the same year or approximate year, I would first check all fuses and make sure they are ok, then check the wiring to the keyless entry module and make sure it has voltage going to it. If all the fuses are good, the keyless entry module has power going to it, and it won't enter programming mode, then the module itself is bad.
@@americanwhiteboy715 i think youtube blocked my own post because it had a link so I will reply again without the link. But search for "1999 ford e150 remote keyless entry justanswers" and one of those posts has complete diagnostic steps ... if the fuses are ok, do step D4. The rke module is behind the drivers seat behind the plsatic that runs up the wall the seatbelt goes through, its near the floor. The fuses specifically to check are Interior panel Fuses 3 (15A), 4 (15A) and 5 (20A) and Power distribution box under hood Fuse 16 (50A).
@@sergiovelez640 they can definitely deliver some things really fast. I order so much stuff from there simply because I live in a very remote rural area and it takes me 1 hour to get to the nearest big box store.
you might try this and see if it works, some require you to open and close the door and cycle the locks manually ... the exact steps are: Shut the car doors, then open the driver-side door. Press the UNLOCK button the driver-side door. Now, turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times. This should be done within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending on RUN. When the programming mode is entered, the door will lock and then unlock. (Note: If the door lock doesn't cycle, try turning the key faster. If it still doesn't work, you may not have keyless entry.) Press any button on the Ford remote to program it. Do this within 8 seconds, as well. Door locks will cycle again, signifying the keyless remote entry is programmed and ready to be used. Have more than one key fob? Press any button on that remote within 8 seconds to cycle door locks. Repeat this for any other key fobs. Lastly, turn the ignition OFF. Locks will cycle one more time to confirm programming is finished
@@npvanlifetravels7878 so when you say manually cycle the locks is it that I do every step normal but when instead of the car doing the cycle at the end I have to press lock and unlock or vice versus
@@joglycruz3410 part of the initiation sequence that places the module into programming mode is closing all the doors while sitting in the vehicle with the keys in the ignition but turned off, then open the drivers door, and press the unlock button on the drivers door but leave the door open, then you turn the ignition switch from off to on exactly 8 times leaving it in the on position on the 8th time. Then the control module should lock and unlock the doors to signal it is ready to be programmed. If that doesn't happen, you only have about 10 seconds to do all of these things so try again but go faster. Once the control module locks and unlocks the door, then you press any button on the remote and the control module should lock and unlock the doors again. If you have a second remote, press any button on it within 8 seconds and it should lock and unlock the doors again. Once you have all the remotes programmed, just turn the ignition switch back to off. Its really hard to get all the timing right because you only have so many seconds to do each step. If you take even 1 second longer you have to start over.
someone said they wished I had posted the timelapse in real time and well, I can do that over time .... upload all the content that made that timelapse video. Lets start with getting the van home and what it looked like before i gutted it.
i tried to link to as many of the major components used because of all the questions on the timelapse and other social media sites. If you have a question, just ask in the comments. I'm always willing to help.
I may upload the build in smaller chunks. I have been debating it for a while now, there are just so many other van build videos that all show pretty much the same thing and this build took me over 300 hours so it was hard to even condense it down to this from start to finish.
@@npvanlifetravels7878 I just happen to also have a 99 ford conversion and the rear seats were removed. I was interested in how wiring was run through the wall behind the driver's seat. Also, I know nothing about the rear a/c and heater. I don't have the higher roof cap. Also, considering an auxiliary a/c, 110v perhaps in the rear window. Particularly interested in upgrading brakes, pedal almost on floor!
@@anthonyreo5075 i am going to try to post a link to my instagram channel. Its a picture that shows the factory wiring along the drivers side. When I built the van, I didn't want to run the wiring I was adding along the same path because it was going to make it a pain to work on in the future. Instead I ran the wiring along the edge of the roof, where the roof meets the wall and then used a trim piece to cover it up. I got lucky and had the flat surface for the extended top but you could simply build an L-shaped channel out of 1x3 and attach it to the wall and ceiling using L brackets after you have all the wiring in place. That would probably be the easiest method to do if I didn't have the extended roof. Anyways, I am more than happy to create whatever videos you need to help you or point you to images I have taken ... even if they aren't uploaded and I have them, I can get them to you via instagram. Here is that image link, hopefully it works because I've never shared a link in a youtube comment before. instagram.com/p/CSSQBFOF4ER/
@@anthonyreo5075 once you have that image link above, so basically, the factory wiring runs along the pillar right next to the drivers seat where the seatbelts are at, then run along the drivers wall just below the windows, all the way to the back where they branch off for the brake lights. The passenger side wiring front to rear is non-existent because the wiring just splits off from the drivers side and follows the rear pillar where the brakelights are at and goes up over the rear doors and down the passenger side to the brake lights.
sorry about the horrendous camera shake when walking ... I recorded with my cell phone instead of the gopro. Note to self, stop using cell phone for videos lol
if its a factory conversion van, you may want to check to see if they cut most of the inner side panels out to do the conversion before you gut it, if thats your plan. Mine had literally almost all of the inner metal removed around all of the windows and that really made mounting wood to the side a pain. That was about the only thing that gave me real troubles.
this was taken from pictures a few weeks ago .... still in an unfinished state but I mostly wanted to let everybody, all 8 of my subscribers, know I am still alive and almost done lol
@@texan90 they are pretty nice vans, I've done a tone of work to this one but that's mostly because i don't want it breaking down when I hit the road for some long-term traveling. If by chance you find out you need a rear heater core / ac unit ... I have one that came out of mine and was working. I took most of the stuff i gutted to the landfill but a few things weren't out yet and that is one of them.
quick and easy to install this sureco ladder for a van exterior....took all of 20 minutes and only requires a drill and phillips head screwdriver. I also used some foam siless sound dampening tape between the ladder and paint to keep from scratching and causing rust problem in the future due to vibration wear.
i searched youtube and found everybody just over-complicates the driver side shock removal on e/f series vehicles. Its really not that hard ... tips from an old school auto tech
this is a more condensed version with annotations than what I posted on my homesteading channel, it gives more information in less time because I value your time.
lots of suspension update videos, van build videos coming up ... be sure to like, subscribe, and share if you like this content or know someone who could see how easy this is.
