Hello 👋 Jesse I know you will get it sorted my 99 vanden plas does the same thing and I found out that some of the door locking mechanism inside the door panels was stuck or barely worked by hand and I sprayed them with wd-40 and I got it working
To all of those saying that it did not work try changing the batteries and/or turning the batteries over so that the words are not shown. When I got my fobs they were shipped with batteries but I just turned them over because I think that they shipped so that they would not get worn out during shipping. When I tried at first, it didn't work because I left the batteries as they were shipped to me. Hope it helps. HEY JESSE! Any ideas on where to get the key (with chip) cut without paying $89 at the local keyshop?
I can tell you 99% probability is that you have a faulty door actuator. If one goes it buggers up the central locking. You just need to find out which door actuator has gone 👍
I was thinking the same thing but my sister’s Jaguar has a faulty passenger door actuator, and the car still locks the other three doors. video on that is next!
Never give up, you'll find a solution for sure! Electric door lock are never 100% reliable on my XJ40. I always have to check if all 4 doors lock button go down and often, I got to go lock one manually. British stuff! 😊
Thanks for the video! Made this so much easier. I do want to add some notes about things I found out doing this myself. 0:48 Use screwdriver to pry the cap if needed, my passenger side was stuck on 1:12 Break loose with breaker bar before using wrench and hex. An Allen wrench works just as good as a hex socket if you dont have one. 1:26 Don't take the nut all the way off, take it down about 3 threads until the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the bolt, then lightly tap everything with a mallet to knock things a bit loose, and place an 18mm socket (impact preferred) over nut and beat that upwards with mallet to free it instead of hitting on the upper control arm. Then finish removing the nut. Much easier and better for the control arm. 1:52 The 22mm wrench and 10mm socket trick worked great for me, just had to break it loose with a breaker bar first. If the sway bar bolt doesn't want to come out, instead of beating it, use the jack to raise or lower the lower control arm until the bolt is level, then it'll either come out freely or just need a light tap to come out. 2:30 Don't forget to remove the nuts up top, earlier they were just loosened. Torque Specs: Strut to lower control arm bolt: 53ftlbs Sway bar upper nut: 74ftlbs Upper control arm to steering knuckle: 35ftlbs then 90 degrees (only way i found to torque this was with a crowsfoot wrench on my torque wrench, because you still need to use the hex to hold the bolt still) Upper strut nuts: 20ftlbs (dont overtighten these and snap them, if you dont have a torque wrench get them snug and use threadlocker rsther than risking snapping them)
The shade is exactly why I parked there! It's Hot out here. You're right, I should start approaching people and letting them know I can help with their cars. I never thought of that thanks for the advice!
I feel your pain. Fate wants us to be the unbreakable *car experts, that can fix anything and everything, cars, trucks, bus, submarine, rocker ship, anti-gravity craft, etc. Good thing it was the 12V. I have to replace rear motor on a Model S.
Seems a bit more complicated than it should be, but it is what it is. Also, what's up with the X308 XJR? We already had more videos on the Tezla than on the XJR.
Yeah, there more steps to replacing the battery on an electric car. The X308 has been great! my girlfriend drives it all the time. I’ll work on some more videos for you soon.
You know how home builders use "builder" grade stuff when they construct a home? From what you see, do car manufactures use good batteries in their vehicles?
I own a 1991 jag and they are great with the I6. Jesse thank you so much for all of your repair videos. You have helped me a lot working on the car. Your mom is also adorable and you are a great son.
Good morning, I'm Andrea from italy. Please ,I need your help for my xj6 3.2 x300 (year 96).I Heard a noise /buzz when the engine is under load from 1800 to 2200 rpm. I replaced the upper chain tensioner but the noise is still with me. I think the secondary chain tensioner is the responsible. This noise is only annoying or dangerous in your opinion. Many many thanks for your help
After soaking my fuel filter bolts 2 days. Banging against them. Praying (im atheist lol). I finally managed to get the filter off without destroying anything. What a chore! Thanks for your vid!!!❤
Hi Jesse, is it the same for an X300? And do you know if the wiring for rear heated seats is already under there in case I want to put them into my Vanden Plas (which came without them)? Thanks for your great videos!
What's up Mercury brother!!! One question. I just bought a 2008 marquis Ls but it's a E85 fuel/unleaded fuel. I only use unleaded gas can I use standard plug and gap size
Whats good bro! I believe standard plugs should be fine but what I would do is remove a spark plug, take a picture of the part number and brand, and get the same type
This is a great channel. I've watched him do another spark plug change on an older Grand Marquis. I followed his instructions on using anti seize and torque settings. I used Denso platinum spark plugs as I have had good experiences with that brand. Everything went smooth! ( some other techs say torque to 24 ft lbs, but I think that is excessive. I went with 12 ft lbs. All good! Thanks for posting
Right on for the support! Glad to hear everything went smooth with the Denso is a solid brand for sure. I've been wanting to try NGK iridium plugs myself, but I'm not sure yet. Appreciate you sharing your experience and for watching the channel!
