Regrettably most modern PPE detracts (or worse actually prevents) fast accurate work to be carried out in a viable manner. This is a massive problem when it comes to personal safety globally. Work in progress I’m afraid..
Noticed on one of your videos with pics of your fuel tank you've used silicone pipe on the tank filler? Silicone pipe is only for oil or water/coolant,it can't be used for fuels as they will slowly dissolve it! Unless of course its flourosilicone lined pipe?👍
I had to leave responding to this for a few days until I had a chance to check the condition of the Dutton which also has a silicone filler neck. I reckon it's been there for 6 years? It seems absolutely fine
This is looking great, are you going to paint it yourself? I had a Volvo V60 which I loved it was great, when I first drove it I just could not get on with it at all until I figured out that it turned itself off and released the brake automatically when you moved off so in my stupidity as I began to move off I was putting the brake back on! Nobody told me! I blame owners handbooks being over an inch think. you might consider some way of putting the caliper in service mode ie fully withdrawn to allow easy pad changes or just do what most garages do and just swap the polarity going into the caliper motor. I did notice however that with the automated system rear brake pads lasted for a very short time usually front pads on cars last roughly half the mileage of rears with the automated system the reverse seemed the case. Tales from a v high mileage courier here Just a thought if that switch was hidden it would make a very effective anti theft device,
Interesting way to over engineer a problem! I personally, have hated all electric parking brake vehicles I've driven so the thought of fitting one to a classic would never have occurred to me. But I do like your circuit and now I'm trying to see where I might use it myself in my TVR 3000M.
If you started again would you consider the electric brake boosters from Tesla’s and hybrids, they do appear to be smaller than a a traditional brake servo, or at least longer rather than wider?
Nicely done sir. Can't beat a bit of CAD for brackets (Cardboard Aided Design) did you consider the MX5 compressor? Rocketeer use that in place of the jag one, much smaller and I believe it would use the same bracket. I think I'd definitely try to mount it higher too, looks a little low!
It certainly is low but only as low as the sump! I chose a different AC pump on the basis of rear mounted pipes and cheapness. I think it was from a volvo ..... On thing i didnt mention on the video, is that i cut off the A/C mountings on the X type sump that I am using as that was causing extra problems I may have a go at raising it all later but my mind is currently focussed on engine management!
Thanks. Lets hope it all works! A year or so ago I did weigh three of my cars including the invader. It wasnt as complete as it is now but it look like it might be coming in at about 1050kg or so? I imagine that's not very different to the original due to the use of alloy in the engine and gearbox vs heavier seats etc. Perhaps I should have another go at that Ive seen various weights stated for the Invader ranging from 900 to 1100+ kg....... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zGY7HUVe7Eg.html I think I had a matchbox toy called a Draguar at one time. It was nothing like this, more like an e type. I think I'll stay with Invader!
@@Mr_Spegru An original Invader could be a lot lighter without that iron Zodiac gearbox! I'll be looking to replace it in the future for a lighter option, and to do away with the overdrive. Looking forward to painting time!
Installing Corsa epas was a Lockdown project for my Invader 2. As you have done, I kept the Vauxhall steering wheel. I remember well the initial switch on test as you have shown. When you get your car on the road you will find the epas transformational ..... best improvement I ever did. Like you I am a tinkerer but not to your level. Look forward to seeing the completed car on the road. When it is, do come ( not sure where you live ) to the Bristol Region GOC monthly meet ( see Rarebit ).You will be very welcome. In the meantime keep the videos coming !
@@welshrarebit3417thankyou. It was a bit of a relief as the original controller id had from another project didnt work!Bristol probably a bit far from Essex but you never know
@@Mr_Spegru I wouldn’t do that anyway. I would built/make/3D print a proper housing the covers the extended part you mentioned, and then put in a normal looking gater. Otherwise it will spoil the look of the whole interior buddy.
It’s really starting to come together now. Been a long road watching you with this, but also inspiring watching. Looking forward to hear it fire up now.
I like the temporary paint. It’s looks so much better than the hotch potch body work and at least gives hope that somewhere in the future, there is an elegant car hiding in there somewhere…
I've just stumbled upon your channel. I'm seriously considering this engine swap for my TVR 3000M. I'll have to get stuck in and watch all you videos to get some learning and pit falls to avoid! I've got a RX8 5 speed box which I've just got to go behind the Essex so might hold off and get an AJ30 to fit in front instead!
@@The_Cotswold_Engineer thankyou. It has been a long haul although there has been loads more to do than just the engine. I hope to get near a first fire up in the next couple of weeks!
@@Mr_Spegru it will be an epic car once done with that engine! The Rocketeer MX5 conversations look bonkers. Do you have base map for the ECU for initial start up? Guess it'll need rolling road tuning after that?
@@The_Cotswold_Engineer No i dont have a map per se but I semi know someone who is running the same setup. Also Motorsport Electronics promise to get you going. In the end though yes a rolling road likely required
Which EWP are you using? Have you checked it's ok to fit it with the inlet facing up like it is? I know Davies Craig state on some of their pumps they shouldn't be mounted with the inlet pointing upwards 👍 Also any reason you are running the radiator flow the opposite way to the norm? Should be hot coolant onto the top of the rad,cooled coolant out of the bottom
Thanks again Kev. You are of course correct and the only reason it is this way up was for convenience. However the rad tank is divided into two sections with an internal baffle so in fact it wraps around rather than having a direct path from input to output. So we'll have to see whether that is a problem. I reckon I can do a switcharoo if needed. As to the water pump its a CWA200 designed for a BMW 1 Series etc (likely a chinese copy). Similar to this one www.t7design.co.uk/pierburg-cwa200-brushless-water-pump-40mm-od-12v-cwa200.html I'm not aware of any reason it should not be mounted this way although I'm sure that it needs to always be full of water. Incidentally I was expecting the CWA200 to be able to vary its speed so I made a PWM modulator thing to control it but it only runs on full power. I bought a second hand one and that was exactly the same so maybe they are both fakes. Another Tomorrow problem....!
@@Mr_Spegru I'm using a CWA400 with a controller from Germany and that is variable, also controls the rad fan. I ran a CWA200 and that was variable speed too using the TinyCWA controller 🤷♂️ Great piece of kit.
Thank you for going to all the time and effort of doing this I found it very interesting, it's all getting a bit final lappy!.......I must say the off the shelf availability and easy adaptability of silicon hoses and fittings is a truly wonderful step forward no more adapting plumbers fittings from Wickes or was that just me in my youthful poverty
You certainly deserve a lot more comments than you are getting Speg, I hope more viewers will comment for you, (although it is always more attractive to comment on a live project in real time when there is still a chance to influence the project outcome). Maybe bear that in mind next time.
Speg regarding the recesses for the gauges on the dash, remember that it will be veneered and it would be wise to trap the veneer under the gauge bezels for durability.
@@Mr_Spegru yes that looks fine (and hopefully if the finished car car turns out well, you might decide to invest in a really nice veneered dashboard)... Well done Speg 👍🙏
I fitted my ecu under the bonnet,spliced the ecu harness into the jag engine harness,another multiplug for 12v feeds in and fuel pump out etc,the engine now comes out with ecu connected.Worked for me,keep up the good work
I've used an aj25 v6 in my cortina and i should forget about trying to get it running on its original ecu,immobiliser etc goes through instruments and body controllers.I used an Emerald k6 ecu,simple to wire,a ford cougar v6 cable operated throttle body,you wont need half the wires you have now!
I went for the motorsport electronics ecu mainly because i semi know someone else who did that. Fly by wire throttle is an unknown problem for now but it shouldn't be that hard to swap it for something else if needed
Converting all of the colour coded wires to all the same green colour seems very exciting! It never ceases to amaze me how certain people can do the maddest things as if it was the most normal thing in the world. I love your direct honesty in your videos my friend. We ought to organise a meeting of all your subscribers one day to try to understand why we do it. Live long and prosper Speg. 🖖
Speg when you’re fiddling about with tiny little metal bits over your engine, try putting a tea tray or old oven tray under where you are working to catch all those annoying little pieces that you drop..
Manual s-type is very rare. In the USA for sure. I'd also say a RX8 engine has very little torque, it will be destroyed with a 3.0 v6 I would think. Ford/Mazda has a manual in its 4.0 explorers, might be better choice.
Well i do know of someone (@kevteare4466) who destroyed his box with this combo but i dont know in what circumstance. You could be right although i am not planning on track use so it may be ok. I believe the rx8 5sp could be a straight swap and is possibly stronger. Time will tell
I always wondered about this and always felt slightly guilty - Many years ago I was put a used Guy Croft engine into a Lancia Montecarlo and there was no spigot bearing. I only realised at about 3am in the morning as I was mounting the engine to the gearbox and it's first run at a track day was in 2 days so I thought bugger it. It never caused any issues for the next 10 years I owned the car and tracked it multiple times. I guess as the layout of the Montecarlo is transverse the input shaft was very short and hence not needed. Rolling road measured 156 BHP from twin 45s with standard cams and big valves - was a good result back then and totally tractable from idle to 7000 rom.
Nice. I am sure transverse layouts are quite similar. For me, that doesn't really explain the need for spigot bearings in inline layouts though. Maybe its just tradition (like anticlockwise engine rotation)!
Get a synchro saver for an rx8, 2nd gears synchro on the rx8 6 speeds are basically glass. a synchro saver prevents over shifting which is what usually does them in.
HI there i am wondering who you are trying to educate here? i believe that anyone trying to complete a similar type build would already know about spigot bearings &clutch plate splines?
Well since this is a non standard adaptor plate conversion with thickness of hitherto uncertain suitability, and considering that tranverse engines do not generally have spigot bearings at all then i just thought it would be useful to some, to complete the review of this installation
“A happy coincidence” as far as Speg is concerned that the brilliant engineers that produce the “mating” adapter plate for those two items made it exactly the right thickness for the transmission shaft spigot and spigot bearing to have the correct clearances. Ha ha! ( you do make me chuckle sometimes Speg!), - bless you mate! 👍😁
Not disputing that the adaptor plate people must have engineered this but there was no info about it and it's a purely flat plate. The coincidence is that it was possible
I've used this plate with my AJ30 originally onto a RX8 6 speed and now on a RX8 5 speed as I broke the 6 speed! I'm using a different flywheel,ST200 modified,and a engine from a Automatic SType so no spigot bearing fitted. I've had 10mm machined off the mounting face of the bell housing to allow for the thickness of the adapter plate,by doing this you ensure the nose of the gearbox shaft is sitting where it was originally before adding the adapter plate,and also you ensure the clutch plate is sat centrally on the splines of the gearbox shaft. By adding the adapter plate without machining the bell housing you are moving the clutch plate 10mm forwards on the gearbox shaft,I'm pretty sure there is no risk of the plate coming off the splines but I never calculated how much distance there is spare on the shaft to play with?🤔
@@kevteare4466 thanks Kev. Yes i suppose the plate sits on a different section of the input splines. Tbh i did not measure the length of those or the plain section. Hmm. I might be able to guage by looking carefully at the video as i'm not going to dimantle to check! Did you use a different adaptor plate for the 5sp? I ask because the 5sp from the mx5 seems quite different - or so it seemed to me back in 2021. Originally I was going to use the mx5 5sp but was put off by the cost of the rocketeer adaptor that seemed much more complex. Or is the rx8 5sp different? Even right now i am not sure whether the spigot is in the s type crank shaft or is part of the flywheel but it was already there.
Thinking about it, since the input shaft could not be any further back into the engine, the clutch plate is as far down the splines as possible - without machining. I suppose it might be educational to compare the spigot arrangement of the RX8 engine but I suspect this means that unless the plain part of the input shaft is supported very differently on the RX8 engine, then that would mean that the clutch plate is actually sitting on the splines in a similar place to normal.
How do you intend to supply the header tank with a constant flow of fuel, will you be using the original tank fuel pump for that and b) where will it sit in the car (as the header tank looks fairly bulky)..
There will be a second fuel pump from the main tank. The whole thing will be mounted up on the rear wheel arch. I say will be but actually it's already done!
I helped a friend fit a 170 Zetec into a MGB using a bit older version of that ECU, I was very impressed it all worked first time no bother and is very adaptable, good choice and well worth the dosh
Good to hear. I had a similar success a few years ago with a Zetec and Omex ecu (which is in the yellow stylus that shares yhe garage). The key to alot if this is the wiring harness. Infortunately there isnt a factory one one available for this engine
I need to do quite a bit more on wiring quite aside from the engine. But nevertheless running engines ecus and first fire up are all looming. Perhaps summer for that. As we speak its just been to retrorides weekender at goodwood on a trailer, but i dont think I'll take it anywhere again until it runs
