It sounds like your wife understands how much you love doing projects like this. "Dear, next year you should build a rat rod." This comment comes from the heart. true love
Thank you very much! I'm hoping to pull the vent window out of the other door today. That first one was next to impossible to take apart. This one has to be done since it is getting replaced it has a broken frame. I am trying to get all of the panels ready for the wheel flairs to be installed when they arrive.
Gary, I am waiting on the ac cobra wheel flairs. They are being made and they will let me know when they are about to be shipped. Yesterday, I made a repair panel for the drivers side rocker. I used a piece cut from an old MGB front fender off of my donor car. Trying to get anything done in this heat is a total pain in the butt. Today, I am going to make the dog leg and start welding.
Oh,David I was,taught years back to run exhaust directly into,a,fuel tank to pickle,it. So you can solder or,weld. 30 minutes is plenty of time. As,long as it's totally empty
Gary, I went to the all British Car Show a couple of months ago. I loved the earlier smooth side ( no marker lights ). I decided to remove all of the chrome strips, they were past repair. The only seams I want to be left is the rear fender t-rails. Any other body seam will disappear as I work it over. The temp here went crazy today. I went out to work a little and the bondo turned as runny as chocolate sauce. A blistering 97 right now.
Greg, I priced a 1/2 sheet of 20 ga. metal 86.50 before tax. Then as I was shopping about, I found a company that will hand roll a set with the right contours and also in 20 ga. Plus they gave free shipping for 75.00. I am hoping to get the other dog leg replaced as soon as the temp drops and then I will figure out the rocker issue.
The rears no, the weight is on the axle with the stands in place. The front needs to be sitting on the tires not supported on the A frames. This makes the nose sit higher. I did locate a company that will roll form the sheet metal flairs a matching set.
Not telling you how to do anything but "Ratrods for Africa" recently built some very nice fender flares on his Renault project. Might give you a backup plan.
My channel is all about sharing ideas and concepts. Right now I have several builders following my S10 GM rear end install. They send their twist to my work and we both learn. That video is interesting to see the wheel flairs. His ideas and metal work is very interesting to watch...! Thank you for the info.............!
Yes, Especially the rear. The RB MGB already has larger front wheel openings. I'm thinking about taking some extra brake line tubing and fabricate a rear flair. Then after tack welding the tubing cover it with taped on paper for a 3d effect. I'm working on a version of 427 cobra front flair. Once it works for me, I can mark the cut line, remove the tubing and clean of the spot welds.
Yes I did because I intend to run 205 70R 15 GM bolt pattern all around. There is a ton of wheels to fit on Brit but I never commit on the final wheels until she rolls out of the paint booth. Sitting in the sun light is when I pick the final wheel and tires.
The mechanical part now has to give way to the body/fabricating. I am almost ready to finish up on the fuel lines and I added a pre-filter. The brake lines, transmission lines , exhaust and transmission shifter will be put off for now. I need a break to give the old bones a rest from rolling about under Brit and getting up and down almost non-stop. Besides, I need to design the flairs.
I recently saw a guy on Utube stuff up the bleeding of the master . His problem was that he pumped it with full length strokes of the piston instead of short jabs. The result looks like a leaking rear seal, but it's not. He condemned 4 new cyclinders doing that.
He should have read the directions. There must be 1/16 of an inch between the brake booster rod and the cup inside of the master. If its less than this the master will be under what they call preload and it makes it impossible to bleed. Trying to bleed will damage the master seals. They make a tool to measure and set the rod to correct length.
Right now Brit is kicking my butt. I need the inner lug nuts for the front wheel adapters. They are in Chelsea, Ma. UPS has located them and sent them this way. I can not check clearances of the front tires or position of the exhaust pipes to know where to run the fuel line or brake line to the engine compartment. Now Fedex has my fuel fittings somewhere in Alabama. Now without them, I can not set the rest of the fuel lines, so the gas tank can be installed. Today, I am going to make a parts run for some nuts and bolts. Then I am going to prep the trunk area for bed liner being applied tomorrow.
That's the plan! Now my lug nuts are in Chelsea, Ma and my 90 degree fuel line fittings are in Alabama. Don't? ask me how that happened. ? I have some body work I can do while I wait on parts to arrive. The brake hardware kit arrived yesterday.
I have both metric and SAE fittings. All of the rear was single by the taper inside so I matched the correct fitting and flange. Now everything is metric double flange to the front lines and Proportioning valve. I haven't looked at the master cylinder yet. I am still pissed that the booster install kit hasn't arrived. When I screwed in the metric fitting it did not want to go, the SAE screwed right in correctly when I looked inside the wheel cylinders they both had a single flair taper.
We got so much corrosion issues,here in new,england.. Copper nickle has been our go to material for brake lines .when steel corrode,s here so fast on our beach buggies.... God Bless David.
Good tip! I normally do that. But on this build the brake and gas lines are going up the drivers side. The wiring will be cluttering up the passengers side of the engine compartment. So to keep things simple I am running all of the wiring, engine harness and ecm on the passengers side.
Thank you so much 😀 Right now I am waiting on chinch clamps for the fuel lines. The lug nuts for the wheel adapters and the install kit for the brake booster.
Aren't the brake lines supposed to be double flair , not single as you have shown ? In some countries ( like over the pond where I am) it's illegal to use single flair.
The wheel cylinders that I used on the rear axle along with the rubber line to the body are Imperial (SAE ) not metric. So the rear axle flairs are all single ones. The brake tubing is the same for both at 3/16th and has been since about 1976. Now the front brakes are still MGB they require a double flair and the line from the rear axle will change over to a double flair at the proportioning valve. Now I am using an American hot rod brake 7 inch booster and master cylinder. You have to make sure that your using the correct fitting for which flair being used. Next fun thing is to connect the master cylinder to the metric proportioning valve to control braking pressure.
Gary, I went to a hydraulic supply house and they matched the old brass fuel line fitting over to the needed 6an line. I will have to see if I can find the sales slip.
Yea,I'm finding out myself th😂e 6an The go to size for this,ls fuel happy size. I decided to go fuel,cell. I'm still convinced in tank pump. Is how I wanna go
Thanks this build is driving me a little crazy. Delays on the front wheel adapters and the install kit for the brake booster. I still have a lot I can keep busy with until they arrive.
Going alone great. Keep at it, very motivational. I living my best life by watching you (was doing a 2.2 Ecotec Turbo in my MGB GT before I got sick)...
That is awesome! I hope your feeling better very soon. This is the most insane build to date. It is like a jig saw puzzle, every part has to go in place and in order. If not you get to start all over. Right now I am working on multiple components as I am waiting.
I'm going to washout the tank and add a filter before the pump with a magnet. This is the most used style of return line fitting. Jegs, Summit, Speedway all sell these for swaps along with a dozen more vendors.
I ended up in a hot shower after moving Brit. The pain meds kicked in nicely. It is nice to have her inside and out of the sun with a couple of fans running. I shot that video wearing my Walmart shopping clothes...just kidding. I am setting up to start the fuel line and brake lines. I have been getting some of the part delivery's today. I have to set up and shoot tomorrow's video early in the morning. My back finally settled down so its back to work.
Thank you but I'm up in Ohio. I got it covered as soon as my welder is free. I welded it with a stick, tight weld. Then I thought I would switch to mig...yeah that didn't weld as planned. They cut into the muscle to do the shoulder replacement. You can have short term muscle memory loss. Signing your name, holding a cup of coffee and in my case the motion of welding has to be re learned. I can hold my coffee and beer so I guess I'm good.
First weld went down perfect. Second one I cobbled up so it is grinder time and try again. Probably just let Jimmy weld it after I clean it up. Shoulder is still causing issues but I have to keep moving ahead on the project. I'm lucky to have a bunch of friends and car builders to step in when I need some help. Heaven knows I have spent a lot of time in their shops helping out.
It was a job about 5 hours worth. Now I can work inside and turn on some fans when needed. After a hot shower and some pain meds. I was still limping around a bit. Today. I need to install the drive shaft and clear the work bench for all of the part delivery's.
