Hi. I am not sure if I understand your question completely. If you are trying to hook speakers up to your computer/laptop, you would plug those speakers into the computer or laptop (or docking station). The headphone jack on this monitor is only to INPUT sound from your computer, not to OUTPUT it to speakers. If you connect your computer to this monitor with HDMI, sound will transfer to the monitor’s built in speakers, but you can separately hook up speakers to your computer by connecting a cord directly from your computer to your speakers. You can then choose in your computer’s settings if you would like the sound to come from the monitor, or from your separate speakers. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. So what I mean is that the bottom of the wood door itself brushes slightly against the wooden frame, so as you spin the lazy susan door around, it doesn't spin freely/smoothly because of that slight interference between the bottom of the door and frame. (On the other hand, there is a gap between the TOP of the door and the frame of about half an inch). I'd love to find a way to move the whole door up about 1/4" so it can spin freely. I don't see any way to move the whole door up. Does that make sense, or do I need to explain it better/differently? I have seen other videos of other types of lazy susan doors where there are adjustment screws/bolts to move it up or down. I see no adjustability on mine, except MAYBE that bolt stick out the very bottom at the 0:34 mark of the video. Maybe that would push the main rod (and everything else up slightly) if I tightened that? But I didn't want to try that unless somebody else thought that might help too.
Hi, maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can reply, but my first thought would be are you sure you purged your air out of the system? I know there can be consequences if you don’t get the air purged out.
I need help. I just put on a new Belt, Waterpump and changed my sensor and thermostat. Now my car drives but my gauge doesn’t work and my fan is on as soon as I turn the car on. Engine doesn’t heat up at all. What’s the problem?
I'm not an expert, but you may have a bunch of air in your coolant lines. Did you purge the air out of your lines? You will want to get a spill free funnel kit (such as this: www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3PASS1PMHX4BW&keywords=spill+free+funnel&qid=1649647591&sprefix=spill+free+funne%252Caps%252C482&sr=8-2&_encoding=UTF8&tag=tiptotre-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=98b86ee40b9db1f3350c3cf9057dba73&camp=1789&creative=9325) and connect it to where your radiator cap goes. Fill the funnel part of the way with coolant (maybe half way or so)....run the car for awhile to get the engine up to temperature, and squeeze some of the flexible coolant lines with your hands to burp the lines. Also rev your engine up and down quite a bit for several minutes, and you should see air bubbles burping out of the coolant that is resting in the funnel. Once those bubbles stop, you should have purged the air out of your lines. Place the special plunger that comes with the funnel kit into the funnel to plug the bottom of the funnel, and carefully remove the plugged funnel from the top of your radiator. Be careful, the coolant remaining in the funnel may be very hot, so don't burn yourself! Good luck!
Yes you can. You just have to quickly raise it all the way up before you rotate it, since the monitor is so wide (or “tall” as/once you rotate it). Then you can lower it back down a bit.
Hi, so one end of the HDMI cord goes into the back of the monitor (as I showed in the video), and the other end goes into your laptop/computer (that’s assuming your laptop/computer outputs via HDMI). Some computers output video (and audio) via HDMI, whereas others do it via DisplayPort, so just figure out which type of port your laptop/computer has and use the appropriate cable (either HDMI or DisplayPort) and connect the laptop/computer to the monitor using the appropriate cable. Good luck!
Just to follow up on this video. When I replaced the temp sensor, I was unsure if I had it in all the way because I could still see some of the threads of the sensor, yet it wasn't budging any more. I did hear from some Genesis enthusiasts that this is to be expected. It is completely normal to still see some threads of the sensor. So, to answer my own question, yes, it WAS in all the way. Also, I have had no leaks at the sensor.
Yeah, and apparently it IS normal to still see some threads of the sensor after you have tightened it down. Seemed weird to me at the time, but some Genesis enthusiasts told me that that was perfectly normal. Good luck to you if you are changing yours.
let's say i have the 3 inputs connected to 3 different laptops. Will it switch automatically to the laptop that is on? Or do i have to manually change the source in the monitor?
Well, there is a setting that you can turn on and off called "Auto-Switch Input". I believe that should detective whatever input source is "active" and automatically switch to that. Of course if you had more than one of those laptops on at the same time, it wouldn't know which source it should go to, so you'd have to switch between them manually, BUT, if you are only turning one of them on at a time, and you have that feature enabled, I believe it should automatically switch to whatever input is currently active.
