My DIY projects involving recycling, energy conservation, EV conversion, hobby farming, vehicle repair and weather monitoring. I am neither a professional engineer nor attorney by education or licensing, but an old physics student that has been out of the academic world for a few decades too long.
Apparently that feature is not available on the 2015 Legacy. I have two key fobs for my Legacy and have tried this simple method about 50 times on each. It doesn't work.
Great video. I have a 2005 Prius 281,000. Brake warning lights all came on, a rear caliper had broken and leaked fluid. Needed new pads, drums, wheel cylinders were shot. Needed additional hardware as well. Had it towed to Mavis $782 but runs like new now. Had just had front brakes done a few months ago. They didn't inspect the rear brakes lol. Thank god for AAA.
Personally, I used a dedicated Maxim MAX6816 device to remove bounce interference. Then used a syringe to inject a known volume of water into each trough receptacle until it tipped. This gave me the volume of water per tipping point. Simply count against time for rate of rainfall and volume of rain. Frankly with such a crappy little rain gauge tipping bucket at £10 per gauge, it hardly warrants such scientific analysis. I send my rain gauge data to my ESP32/Nano-based central weather station every 24 hours by reporting via a two way NRF24L01 link. The overall weather data is then retransmitted using ESPNOW to a large LED matrix display that also displays rain rate/total (mm) wind speed, gust, direction (as an animation), barometric pressure, outdoor humidity, indoor/outdoor temps, time, sunnrise/sunset (as an animation) and finally moon phase (again as an animation). All good fun.
Rainfall is not measured by volume, but by depth, that is inches/mm. This "crapy" sensor, along with it's careful calibration, mean that accuracy is within a few hundredths of an inch over 1.5" - 2" of rainfall.
I have not. While everything works as designed, the Squareback I purchased during covid times, I was never able to pick it up as the seller basically scammed me and I have not been able to find another for a price I can afford.
@@ZookeeperJohnG I’m sorry to hear that. It’s so expensive converting anything already without getting ripped off to boot. I have a little Honda C90 motorcycle I’m doing first and even a motor and battery for that is more than I want to spend. I’ve been looking into maybe using MG1 or MG2 from the Prius on a VW bus gear reduction on each of the rear wheels. I need to hit my local salvage yard to see if I can pick up the Prius parts I need. I understand the mechanical aspects, I run a machine shop, but I don’t have a good grasp of the electrical engineering. I hope you get to move forward on your project. I’ve seen pretty affordable VW sand rails and dune buggies that you could use as a test bed. All the vw drive stuff would transfer to a car later.
A Gen3 Prius transaxle should fit right in and have WAY more power than an early engine would have had and the transaxles are CHEAP. MG1 + MG2 ~ 100HP :D
@@ZookeeperJohnG you can program a code on the tailgate button to enter without keys/fob. So you lock your fob deactivated in the car and come back in using the code. Useful to go swimming or whenever you don’t want to carry the fob with you.
Thank you for documenting your Gen 2 inverter research. I just dismantled a 2nd gen and have everything. Do you think it would be possible to run the inverter using the factory HV cpu with the imobilizer and key, or should I skip all of that and just go with an openinverter board?
The only benefit to using the Toyota VCU is if the VCU and motor(s) are from the same vehicle as the resolver encoding is paired accordingly, which is why I ultimately chose the Openinverter route. Good luck with your project!
Made my day! I was trying to pull a trailer and it kept swaying. This helped in figuring how to tighten the turnbuckles to keep everything tight. Also not fun trying to keep the rear blade from swaying. Thank you!
0:24 Make sure you careful with that power supply. Its not a charger. Cool video, I've burned many power supplies before learning i need a charger in the middle. A nice rc charger will do
Wonder if you could work the big gear back and forward until free… since is like just debris…instead of replacing pump…looks like 4 screws to get gear cover off…
I found that the grit/debris had caused damage to the valve and body increasing friction. One might be able to disassemble it and smooth the parts out, but given the cost of the valve vs the work involved, seems better to just replace it making sure to use pre-mixed new coolant to avoid even more contamination.
That's great! The boat itself makes more sound than the motor. I had considered doing this to my boat motor when it got toasted (see my channel) but I think I got 'er pretty close to put back together. I love your videos. Keep it up!
Fascinating videos on the VOLTswagen. I've been brewing the idea of using a Q211 MGR for the front drive of a diesel 4x4. Not sure if i'll be able to wrap my head around it after watching your videos, none the less i'll keep trying to make a plan for it.
I could not get mine apart like you did. I think the one I put in is China junk. so I get to do it again.... But I think that I fixed the old one with the silicone spray. it has a lot of rubber inside it. thanks for your movie.
if you spray silicone inside the pipes it will turn easy again. the motor should also be sprayed with electoral cleaner to get the carbon out and it will work again...
By disconnecting those 2 harnesses, is that sufficient to remove power from the brake caliper piston or does the negative battery cable need to be removed also?
