I'm sure I mention somewhere in the video to disconnect the battery, If I didn't i apologize. My number 1 rule is to always work safe especially working under a vehicle.
The spacers don't interfere with the coil bucket/cap that some other videos state? I've seen a company that make a more rounded control arm that will clear the spacer.
I didn't understand how to use a 3/8 socket wrench with the tensioner because there was no bolt to loosen. This other video shows that you use the actual wrench without a socket on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yIzDTkRvSO0.html
If I'm not wrong on this vehicle the tensioner has a slot to insert the 3/8 ratchet. Whenever you insert it loosen up the tensioner so you can remove the belt.
@@HTXSuspensions that's correct. After I saw this other video I watched yours again and it made perfect sense. I was just having a hard time visualizing it.
Good video, I’m trying to watch a few to see what all this job takes and yours is clear so thank you. I called a shop to get a quote to do this and they said for a 2015 GC Limited the knuckle has to come off, bearing get pressed out/in and everything reassembled. Doesn’t look like that is what you had to do…this is a rear wheel bearing assembly on a 2015 GC Limited AWD right?
Thank you for the feedback. On some vehicle's you do have to remove the knuckle, thankfully I was able to do the job without removing it. Make sure to have everything in the video before starting so you won't run into any issues.
This is the best video out there on You-Tube, I have the exact model 2013 Altima. Followed the steps to the letter and it all worked out great, Did the steps in reverse for the installation. Excellent job putting out this video.
The one shown in the video is the fuel pump. The sending unit looks quite different. I do recommend replacing both if you are planning on doing this job.
If I didn't mention it please disconnect the battery before starting the job. You never want to work on any electrical part with the battery connected because you might short something. You only need to disconnect the negative side.
So much extra unnecessary work done. Belt tensioner 14mm wrench. Dont even need to take tire off to loosen belt. Remove wires, 13mm. Same with Alternator bolts 13mm. Loosen all way, slots for bolt, make sure they all way left to body. Pry from top, used extension as well. Pops right off. Pull up and wiggle for bottom to come loose. Dont need to do all the extra work. Always remove neg. On Battery to work on any part of vehicle that has electrical. 😂 no struggles
Thanks for the video. My question is, would it be worth the time to dismantle the CV shaft from the hub (wheel) to give yourself even more freedom to get the alternator out? With most front wheel drive vehicles I can dismantle the CV shaft in about 15 minutes, but of course I’m using air tools. I guess I’ll find out in a couple days.
The alternator on my 2010 Q5 3.2L stopped charging the battery. Red battery symbol flashing on the LCD display with a message “battery not charging”. Is there a fuse that could be blown or is the alternator dead? Help! Thank you.
I don't think they have a fuse most likely it's your alternator. Most times when the battery light shows on your dash it's going to be your alternator.
@@HTXSuspensions Which way to do push on the tensioner - counterclockwise with the socket ratchet on the bottom pushing toward the driver's side? There is a lot of resistance so I don't want to break something.
Great video J, thanks for posting it. I was frikkin stumped on this one. Might still be but at least I know what I need to do now. Hard to tell when you can't see anything. I hate these cars! I'm a Corvette mechanic.
You do NOT have to remove the bottom ball joint, the LCR will drop enough once the lower shock bolt is removed to allow for a large spacer to be placed on the top of the shock/coil over assm. You do not have to jack up the back end to place a block under the spring. Just remove the bottom nuts from u-bolts, remove the bottom plate and using a jack with a piece of wood lift the leaf springs just in front of the spring perch on the axle. Lift enough to install lifting block, lower and make sure pins are going into the holds. Install new u-bolts, bottom plate and nuts. Your video gets things done; just a lot hard and more time than if done without the steps noted.
I was able to get the alternator out without removing the bracket. Was an absolute bitch but their is an angle it will fit tight through and be sure not to rip the cv boot when you slide it past
Yeah, I'm glad you said that. I spent hours trying to get the bottom bolt off the CV axle mount and gave up. I had to turn the alternator exactly like was shown with the video and pull it out to the left side under the wheel well and then shift it to the right over the axle.
