Regarding the windows. They used to physically remove them. It was standard practice (In combat zones) to remove the windows between dawn and dusk. The concern was a enemy warship might detect you from the sun reflecting off the panes of glass
This indeed is a repop of the Accurate Miniatures kit. Scatemates is a great resource when you're checking a model's history. The instructions are almost an exact copy.
watched your first vid, you masked the sides and painted but did not show the ship afterward!! same with some of the PE you did, not showing the afterward!! not such a good vid. seems you cut before you think
Fair points . For the painting I did really show it because there were so many different ways these ships were paint during the war that i didn’t want this part of the video to come off as the only way or “ right way “ to paint the ship. Also this video was based on the premise that you’ve built/painted a few models before, but still had reservations on ship kits. As for the PE, the parts I cut out were redundant bits or very simple gluing to the kit, basically stuff that I had already covered in the video. So I saw no reason to keep putting the same info in again and again.
You did a good job until the weathering unless you are going for it coming to San Diego for repairs.most of the time even coming into port was not that weathered.most of the battle damage was on the starboard side and covered and the rust or most of it was painted.the sun fade was there.now how I know this is my dad served on the Frisco during WW 2 and his captain would not have that ship come in to port looking like a British ship.they were constantly painting and cleaning that ship when they were not fighting.you might find rust around the anchors and crap trees but they where not as bad as people weather them.
I do agree with you about people overweathkng ships, however if you look at photos of San Frans return to Pearl. You’ll see that both the port and the starboard side are feather beat up. This was more of a depiction of of her right after the battle Edit: this was one of the reference shots I was using www.history.navy.mil/content/history/museums/nmusn/explore/photography/wwii/wwii-pacific/wwii-pacific-guadalancanal/naval-battles/naval-battle-guadalcanal/80-g-40250.html
@@acescalemodeling will not disagree with that photo.i do have some of those photos when it came in San Diego for repairs.at the end of the war all who severed on the Frisco got a album book of the Frisco and pics of her coming into San Diego for repairs.like I mentioned only after the battle it came into port like that.
Top weathering technique from a flames of war and 40k painter, Get some nuln oil washes, and coat the entire thing, once dried, Dry brush in your details, to dry brush effectively dab some paint on your brush (barely any at all 1/2mm) and dab on cloth until you cant see 90% of the paint, then rub against your finger and dust over ALL the edges of your model. Too little is better than too much, Takes a few hours considering the size of your build but it will help massively. And dont forget you need to paint every surface 100% how you want before doing this. (bare in mind white/gray undercoat is best as black is useless for detailing) EG floor planks, Bouys, Life jackets, Ect. this brings depths and detail to every surface bringing it to life. take a google at nuln oil washes or similar, and Dry brushing techniques from Flames of war. Perfect combo for war builds.
That's so amazing work on aircraft carrier. A couple of years ago I did assemble one model kit aircraft carrier in that same scale. Only difference was that I had from Revell that model kit, and it had Harrier jets.
I served on the USS Halyburton FFG 40 back in early 2000. I transferred off of her just after the home port shift to Jacksonville, Florida. I also served on the USS Kauffman FFG 59 from 1990 until 1994. Looking at the end of this video you have the missile launch platform on backwards. I have this kit and was wondering if it could be built as a long hull (Flight III) version or not. Thanks for the video.
Nice build I just got this one i am sort of a p.e. noob i have 2 other ships p.e. railed but kind of a glue glob at points so any 'ninja' advice on attaching these? Yours look good. Nice work
Thanks! That’s always something I’ve struggled with too. Bestmethod ive found is to put a little glue on card and lightly drag the pe on it. The only issue is that sometimes it’s not enough glue and it the bond is super fragile. I’ve heard some people heat up the pe and melt it to the model haven’t tried it but I’m definitely going to! Thanks for watching!!!
The kit should be good for 1945-1955 with very easy lifting in terms of scratch building. Midway stayed pretty much “as built” for her first decade. AA fit and radar suite were the biggest changes I can see. As for post SCB-110 and beyond, nothing is impossible for someone willing to do a lot of modifications. Personally, I’ve always thought it’s easier to go forwards in time than backwards when building a model from an existing commercial kit. All in all, it’s another 1/350 injection molded kit that has been missing. Definitely can’t wait for my preorder to arrive!
I see your build shows the "Neutered" variant after removing the MK 13 launcher. Nice job by the way. Gotta get this kit. I served on USS Vandegrift FFG-48 1990-91 Desert Shield.
When I did this kit, I researched other schemes instead of doing the dazzle scheme that the paint chart called for. Ranger wore Measure 22 (sea blue and haze gray) in 1943, before being repainted in the Measure 33 dazzle a year later. But then, in the final months of the war, she actually reverted back to Measure 22. (It's worth noting that Ranger also wore Measure 12 Mod early in the war, but it wouldn't be historically accurate to do that scheme since the kit depicts her after the 1944 refit. Nor would her peacetime scheme of straight haze gray).
Vallejo Air: It’s notorious for tip-dry and going all “latex-y”. Every time I use it, I put two or three drops of their 71.262 airbrush flow improver in the cup. It really helps slow down the drying time. The difference in finish between your red-tailed Hornet and this one is remarkable. You should be very proud of your abilities.
The red-tailed RAAF paint scheme celebrated the 30th anniversary of Hornets in service. Their A & B “classic” F18’s are retired now; they made it to 36 years service.
I have one CV-6 Enterprise that I am going to build and I have the following question where I can find more information about the torpedo blister?, I saw that you added in a round edges but I saw one drawing showing a different shape also the thickness on that in one frame drawing is showing that was 4" thick starting at the 4th DK and going down passing the 1st Platform and finishing in 2.5" thick, also in that drawing they called Main Side Belt. Thanks Alex
Hey Alex! I’ll have to find you the info I have so let me get back to you on it( it was surprisingly difficult to find) your info sound correct from what I remember. As for the shape of the blister I couldn’t find any great documentation on it the general plans from the 1943 refit don’t seem to be online , they are at the national archives in college park supposedly. So I just had to use what photos I could.
I found one drawing at the report of damage at Naval History and Heritage Command, War Damage Reports USS Enterprise, Plate VII Bomb and Suicide Plane Damage, in this drawing is showing the side view of the blister and also the Frame 136, that confirm that the blister was like round shape and the end and went from the main deck down, probably from 2.5 in thick the min to 4 in at the water line, base on the Frame 76 that is at the US Carriers 5 & 6 book from 1941.
Interesting project. I'm sure some Beaus did get to that state and yet were still operational. The Malta aircraft were painted azure blue on the undersides.
yeah im not sure how i messed up and forgot about the blue. there are a few photos of beat up Beaus..... but this project definitely is on the fringe of realism
You keep saying postwar. What post war you talking about? Midway didn't serve in WW2 but it did in Korea, Vietnam and the Gulf war. So which post war you talking about? Lol You know what is a hole in ships in general? Korean war era ships and definitely aircraft carriers carrying destroyers and Skyraiders and Corsairs, Panthers, and cougars. Between that and no USS Oklahoma and USS Washington and South Dakota (1942) battle of savo island. You'd think the only ships involved in a battleship vs battleship battle would've in plastic. Thinking Washington is the only US battleship to sink another battleship in the entire war
I meant to say post ww2 as that was the conflict it was originally supposed to serve in. Yeah I agree on that a Korean War carrier would be great, however I don’t think this one is gonna be it . There is a uss North Carolina, I don’t know how hard that would be to convert to Washington. I think it’s kinda crazy that there is still no 1/350 Baltimore class cruiser.
i dont know whats more enjoyable about modelling, having mountainous work which seems never ending but is also a relaxing process, or being able to see the finished model exactly how you want it
Had some free time today.....so I thought I cobble together some footage. I know it’s not the longest, but it might be till end of May until I got enough for a longer video :/
