I saw another modeler who is having a different technique. He is putting SolvaSet on the decal, and 24hrs later he is peeling off the decal support with a pair of tweezers. Very simple
Hello! Thank you very, very much! I have a very lame question - how should I dilute Vallejo Primer, paints and varnishes for an airbrush with a needle 0.35-0.2? Really sorry for a such basic question.
I use Humbrol DecalFix and it works / seems to work for me. Humbrol DecalFix wasn't in the video but I can image lots of decal solutions are there and you have to choose what to test. Thanks anyway.
@@WasatchModeler thank you👍 I’m building the Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer and put a Mig Ammo glossy coat over the paint. Some decals silvere a bit after putting the Mig Anmo Matt coat over it. Would you recommend the Micro Sol to be put over these a couple of times or just one time?
Thanks for this. I applied my decals on a gloss coated surface using a decal solution and I didn’t leave the decals too long in the water on applying. And I was much relieved as that would give the best results according to your research. The decals on my model look good and I hope and expect them to still look good after some days / weeks. I will put a second gloss coat on the decals within a few days after they have dried.
Great heads up, Thank You for sharing. How does the AK cement compare to Tamiya Extra Thin? I get the Tamiya Airbrush cleaner to refill my extra thin. You get a 250 ML bottle (Pink Top) for about $10. Is the same formula, been using it for years, no complaints. And you get 6 refills of the regular Extra Thin bottles. (that's about $36) Hope you and your loved ones have a great/safe weekend. Take care, Tony
I'm bramd new to the hobby, and I'm watching vids as I cut and sand before painting. It looks like putting decals on over gloss was producing best results. However, what if I wanted to end with a flat coat? Lay down gloss, apply decals, then hit it with flat coat to finish? That is, if I decide that to emd with flat coat. This was well done experiment!
There is a follow up ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mo9bbLIWNrQ.html When you involve decal solvent, the difference between gloss and matte is negligible. I like matte for the final coat, depending on the subject. There is an advantage of gloss over the decal to try and remove the step that comes up from the thickness of the decal.
Wow, very cool camouflage: you rendered the original Viper perfectly 🔝 May I ask if the initial overall black is just Mr.Surfacer primer, or you also applied a light coat of very dark gray to lighten a little bit the pure black? Thanks
why why why? the paint works great with the appropriate such as AK11500 or Vallejo 71.261 . I am humble enough to trust Vallejo information...the professionals.. you seem like a nice guy, best wishes to you.
Excellent video, just subscribed to you. I have tamiya 1 32 mk. VIII to build, very happy with the detail, but when I do an early Spit, Kotare is who I will buy, looks stunning. I know people have said about lack of engine, but there are other ones with that detail, so it's courses for horses.
Boy the Mark Fit Strong looks like it did the best out of the bunch. Better than the DSPIAE. A couple questions: 1. What is the substrate? Is it paint? Varnish? 2. Which of the decals were just Mr. Mark Setter used on, vs. Setter and Softer? I’m sure you know they’re big fans of Setter over Softer on SMCG group. I think Solvaset was neutered a couple years ago. I don’t have proof, other than rumor and my latest bottle doesn’t seem stronger than anything else I’ve used. It would be great to get back to the basics. A lot of people using different techniques: - Cold or hot water? - How long to let the decal sit in the water? Some people think you don’t want to wash the adhesive off the back. - Some people think squeezing the moisture out from underneath once on the model is actually counterproductive - squeezing the adhesive out. - I apply a “bubble” of softener to the decal from edge to edge once applied and dry, letting it work and evaporate. Some people apply it, let it sit for a few minutes then mop it up.
Mr surfacer 1500. Ones on the left have set below and soft above. Ones on the right have just softer. Must have missed those posts in smcg but don't doubt it. Yeah, not sure what is the story with solvaset. Mark fit strong is definitely a go to. Dspiae i worry is too strong for some decals.
@CFster exactly. Not working with ideal circumstances but kinda with a handicap. And definitely a nod to previous videos that using gloss for reasons that people think they need gloss is debunked.
Great follow on! This test (now test SERIES) is a wonderful departure point for whats next. Because you tried to be so inclusive, there are many avenues that someone could focus in on - chemical makeup of the solvent, paint or varnishes, light exposure after finish, exposure to dust, physical handling (especially for mini painters!)... I plan on looking into where the decals I have come from and how I'm going to apply them more carefully. My little library of zip-locked treasures definitely comes from a variety of sources. I use the MiniPaints app to track my paint inventory and some project progression and paint formula (which I'm bad at 😢). What would be great would be an app that lets me take a pic of my decal sheet, then scratch off the ones I used - maybe with notes that would help me remember things about the decals themselves and the processes I used / results I got. Heck, even a note on the date of apllication would help me ID problems down the line in terms of age and degradation. Certainly I coukd do this with a vector image program, but an app would be more convenient. 😉
Thanks for this - I'm just getting back into hobby painting after many years. I knew a little bit about decals - mostly stuff my dad showed me when I was 10. After watching your video, I'd say I may have thought of myself as a brown belt - but really I was a yellow belt. Gonna go watch the next vid now.😊
Appreciate you doing this. I have been hearing a lot of back and forth about this topic from different modelers. I'm glad you showed that it is just more than a yes or no answer. Just like the washing models and priming debate. Do you have to? No..... Will it help? Probably. I think Clint Eastwood said it best.... "Do you feel lucky?"
There is no end to the You Tube videos that tell you the "right" way to do anything related to building plastic scale models. As for decals. I just finished up a Tamiya tank model kit. I put a touch of Micro Sol down first, laid the decal down, and let it dry completely. I then laid a single coat of watered down Mod Poge over the decal, and let it dry. Had no "silvering", no nothing. It looks great, and the decal is protected.
That was the focus of the video. There is no absolutes in decals. The mod podge approach might work fine for some situations. Would be curious to try on other situations. I did the future method over the decal in the same way and it looked kinda bad.
The concern I have with this is you’re using sheet styrene for your tests rather than kit surfaces which contain things like rivets and panel lines. As such, it doesn’t reflect real world conditions.
You have a point. I am doing a follow up right now that has rivets and panel lines. This test shows not under real world conditions per se but also ideal situations. Wanting to not have a ton of extra variables.
Sometimes the decals are just terrible quality. I built a Heller F1CT last year--terrible kit as it is--and the decals were awful. Stiff as postcard, hardly any adhesive, and nearly every one silvered despite a perfect gloss coat and using solvents.
I usually use the two Microscale fluids over Tamiya X-22 gloss thinned a lot. Sometimes I still get silvering. In the 70’s Dad discovered Solvaset and our decaying changed forever, except it was very strong back then and meow it’s pretty timid. Part II should prove to be most fascinating. Thank you.
