I am Shelby Lohrman from the Rochester Chess Center and ChessSet.com. Our website is www.ChessSet.com. Our company specializes in Scholastic chess supplies. We have been the industry leader in new chess products and customization for over 30+ years. In house, we customize and brand chess boards, bags, hardcover chess scorebooks, wooden chess boards, boxes, and more items than you could ever imagine. If you are a school program, we want your business. School PO's gladly accepted! Keep on checking back for new chess products. We already helped develop the VTEK300 Ultimate chess clock. Think of a Chronos on steroids that is actually easy to use and made in the USA. Others may try to copy what we do (see checkbook magnetic chess sets and customized chess boards), but no one can keep up with our new products. Once a month we will be putting out a video where we will have a RU-vid only special coupon.
These clocks have bugs: The first one is when you press when on the screen any digit ends with .0 decimals it steals 1 second from you. For example when you press at 14.0, clocks show 13.0 This bug is very annoying when you play blitz. And the second one is even more ridiculous. When you press at 1.0 and you see 0.0 on the screen, and after an opponent move extra seconds are added out of nowhere. You can check these bugs by yourself.
These clocks shouldn't been used in serious tournaments due to their bugs. The first one is when you press when on the screen any digit ends with .0 decimals it steals 1 second from you. For example when you press at 14.0, clocks show 13.0 This bug is very annoying when you play blitz. And the second one is even more ridiculous. When you press at 1.0 and you see 0.0 on the screen, and after an opponent move extra seconds are added out of nowhere. You can check these bugs by yourself.
If it weren't for the goofy oversized pawns, I would buy the Ultimates in a heartbeat. I like the innovative weight system, the appearance of the rooks, and I'm perfectly ok with the knights which some people seem to have an issue with. But those bulbous pawns would distract me while playing. They look mismatched compared to the rest of the set. It's as if the pawns are from another, bigger set. Any chance of of the pawns being made without swelled heads? If not, is there another plastic set you can recommend that won't be subject to rattling weights?
“Mousepad??” How dare you, vinyl til I die! Impossible to slide the pieces and they get filthy in no time. They make wood look vinyls nowadays too so, sorry, crappy invention.
Rattling pieces feel cheap, when the glue gives way and lets the weight move. I like the illusion that the pieces is one solid thing and when the magnet gets loose it shatters that illusion.
I'm still trying to find an explanation of the different modes or functions. I just bought the ZMF-11 without really knowing about anything besides two countdown timers. The manual even seems to assume I know what they are for.
I have been trying to find a demonstration of and explanation of what the various features are for. I am new at this I just bought a ZMF-11 Gameclock and I don't know what all these things are about. I need a sort of"Primer on Timers" eh?
A link to by the set in the video description would be nice. You sold me, but how do I buy??? I searched for V3 Ultimate Chess Set on Amazon and nothi9ng looked like your set.
From 2:40 to 3:30 is exactly what I needed to see, thank you. Unfortunately, I bypassed your video and wasted a lot of time watching several non-helpful, confusing videos because your title is so very specific about the fancy National Open time controls. There definitely SHOULD be a video explaining how to set the clock for primary and secondary time controls with different increments, but all I needed was the easy stuff like G/30; inc 10 and G/60; inc 5 and G/90; inc 30, which I was not able to figure out from reading the so-called instruction manual.
Most of the problem is poor prep, maybe mold release and dirt in the bond area and on the weight. And the glue itself. My HOS 4” Fischer set had a weight come loose. I cleaned it with IPA 91% and used JB Weld epoxy. That weight is going Nowhere. The HOS Fischer set IMHO is a better looking set but may always be plagued with rattlers that can be fixed easily. I found a lot of molding seams and mold alignment with ultimate set and for that reason won’t pay $50-$70 for it. It’s workmanship and glue that causes the rattlers. JB Weld is superior epoxy but it’s not cheap or quick. But it works.
What a nasty, shameless, uninformative corporate BS this is. - Glued weight comes loose, but glued bottom wont? I call BS on that. - It's so 'proprietary' you can't tell? Must be embarrassingly simple then. Just make the weight different shape so it doesn't fall out, seal it with hot glue, plaster or hammer the lead so it expands. Big deal.
What's the difference between those triple weighted pieces and the fischer? Are they hard dense everywhere or do they feel hollow anywhere in the piece? I want those plastic pieces to feel like marble or hard dense wood.
First of all thank for the video, Second, I think it is one of the most durable chess clocks but I think it is very very complicated and you need the manual and video all the time to be able to set it
This set is fantastic, all the qualities Shelby talks about are true! IMO this set is perfect for tournament AND blitz! When I go to tournaments my opponents always choose to play these over what is usually available( smaller pieces) The heavier weight is ALWAYS a plus at tournaments! These are tough and can stand up to ANY tournament or blitz play, the wider bases and heavier pieces make them so stable in FAST play!! The ONLY very small issue is exactly what Shelby shows--- the bases being a LITTLE too BIG for the 2.25" squares--but you can still play them on this board at tournaments! How I personally took care of this-- I purchased vinyl boards with --2.375" squares and this made playing this set a TOTAL JOY! These vinyl boards are 22inchs by 22- --- while the 2.25" square board is 20 by 20. I just take my board and show the tournament director -- I have never been denied use of them in any tournament!! Respecting my opponent - I just give my opponent the choice of using the bigger pieces and bigger board! I have NOT EVER had ANY opponent choose NOT to play these and this year I have played MANY over the board tournaments! In truth, I have had SO MANY people ask where I got them, they like them so much!! The typical size tournament pieces and board work just fine, but, these are NOT expensive, look great, VERY durable and the bigger board is VERY inexpensive ! This is my go to set for all tournaments now, no matter the format!
