anyone know if there is a spreadsheet already available with all the data and figures entered, to save having to copy them down from the video manually ?
Thanks for your work. good stuff! I run a mid cage Ultegra set up with 11-34 rear and 52/36 front. If I didn't ride mostly in the hilly Hocking Hills of Ohio, I'd go with 11-30 and a short cage. I've used an 11-28 with a 53-39 in the front with a Dura Ace short cage. It worked well. It just didn't have a tall enough gear for my area.
Great video! There are a few differences on the North American market nv200's. The filler panel between the bumper cover and headlight is part of the bumper cover and the headlight bulbs are different. Otherwise, they look very similar. Our washer fluid bottle is mounted down low behind the bumper cover too.
Good idea to rotate tires around. I should have done that since my back is more worn and finished after 4000km. front still has a bit of life left but I'll replace it
Max i am looking at a caad12 2019 (rim brakes) in mint condition ultegra for $900. Size is 52cm, I currently ride a supersix 56cm (feels too big so I'm sure I'm really 54cm). Height 5' 10", inseam 32". Think I could get away with a 52cm? Thank you!
Inspired by this and similar vids, I changed the 11-28 for a 11-34 on my Felt CX bike. Kept the short/med cage 105 but used the Road Link and also subbed a 34 tooth chainwheel for the 36. Didn't even need to adjust the chain length. Now I have the 1:1 lowest ratio. The rest is up to me.
Wrong I'm afraid. The creaking is caused by the BB axle fretting microscopically inside the bearing inner races. Look closely at the area of the axle that's inside the bearings and you'll see signs of wear, as well a blackening of any grease that's present. I believe this is actually called blueing. The answer is to clean everything up and refit the crankset with a smear of bearing fit compound on the area of the axle that's fretting. Problem solved.
Very good information. I currently need the extra gear of 34t on rear as I am climbing steeper grade mountains. I'm however using a R8000 ultegra front derailleur and rear derailleur in mechanical setup. My front is a compact chain ring set. It's been since 2018 since I used the 34t rear cassette, so I needed a refresher of what is allowed so I came here to this video. Thank you for this.
Hi Max - could you please post the approx length (cm/mm) from centre to centre of both pulley cogs? Im trying to figure out if I have SS or GS. Mine measures 6cm/60mm
My capacity is 37. I want to use a Shimano GS Medium but the spec says my 16t front difference is to much? "Maximum Chainring Size Difference: 10T (medium GS version), 22T (long SGS version)"
Range ≠ Capacity, at least logically, unless capacity is a reference to range - and not actual number of teeth. As, only roughly HALF of the chain is wrapped on cog and sprocket!
Thank you Max. I have been searching for this exact information for awhile and this video is perfect. I have the Ultegra R8000 system and the data you have provided will be important in my decision to switch the chainrings.
Great milage you did there, but Im surprised after the cut with the glass you bother and repaired the tire. I don't know if this is only me but I would just trow it to the bin and buy new one. Is like 50euro, I think once per year you can spend 50euro on the tire, is not much. Regards
Hi. Thanks for your video. Is it possible just to replace the 2 cage plates (inner and outer) from SS plates to GS plates? About €30. Instead of having to replace the whole derailleur?! Which would be much more expensive! Thanks!! P.s. I have 52/36 front; 11-32 cassette. Shimano Ulegra Di2 rear derailleur 6870.
SS derailers are lighter and can get the pulley closer to the cassette. That's minimal for normal users, but pros who need very precise and fast shifting and will never mount lower gears, they might notice the difference.
