I want to use one of your kits in my next pack build. I want to use an air cylinder to make the bumper move when I vent or overheat the pack. How can I tell the solenoid when to push the cylinder in and out?
The same way you'd connect a smoke kit! Port 8 (the gold pins by the volume connector) triggers when you vent or overheat the pack. Search "Arduino relay module" on Amazon or Ebay and you'll find loads of modules which take a servo cable connection on one end, and trigger a relay to make contact between the COM and NO pins on the output. You can then run the (+) power supply for your air cylinder or smoke kit / fog machine through the relay, leaving the (-) always connected to the device, and when you vent the device will trigger for several moments and then turn off. This of course would require your air cylinder or bumper to be spring loaded to return to its resting position when you're done venting. If your air cylinder requires you to invert the polarity to make it retract and then stop applying power after its finished moving, things will quickly become very complicated.
@@rabidprototypes this is the kit I wanted to use. They use a special controller that can have a pattern tapped into it and make the cylinder move in that pattern when triggered. Do you think this would work? Here's a link to a video demonstration of the kit I'm talking about. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dR95umuNSPY.html
@@robertvonvolen8249 I think it'll work, though you may want to contact the seller to ask if their device could be controlled with an Arduino where the signal pin will be pulled up to 5V with a 100K resistor, and pulled to GND when triggered. Some devices can only withstand 3V on the inputs. I read their documentation but they don't specify. If the PicoBoo can't withstand 5V input, you could purchase a diode and connect the cathode to the Positron and the anode to the PicoBoo and then the PicoBoo will only see the connection to ground, but the 5V which is on the input otherwise won't flow through the diode. In this case, wiring the diode backwards could destroy the PicoBoo, though with the 100K resistor there the risk here is low. To wire the Positron to the PicoBoo with or without the diode, you should connect ONLY the SIGNAL line (the pin closest to the chip on the Positron) and the (-) pin (the one nearest the edge of the PCB) to the PicoBoo's signal and input pins. Do NOT connect the center 5V line to the PicoBoo's input, as that's connected to the PicoBoo's 12V power input, and doing so would mean the 12V supply of the PicoBoo would be connected directly to the 5V supply of the Positron and this would destroy the Positron instantly!
@@rabidprototypes ok I definitely don't want to take that chance. I'm really taking inspiration from Fincher technologies with my build. Are his air cylinders spring loaded? Also where can I find them, because I cant find any spring loaded ones that are at the bore that I need lol
Yes, however you won't be able to do certain things, like trigger the overheat or overload (cross the streams), which cause all the cyclotron lights to light up at once and the venting sound. This is because the black capture button doesn't cause the pack to "heat up", and you need to push both buttons to trigger overload. You will also not have access to half the weapon sounds in each weapon mode, because each button makes its own sounds.
You will also not be able to activate music mode, which requires you to hold the red button while flipping the activate switch to enable it. You could plug the black button into the red switch pins to swap the functionality, but then you would be unable to switch weapon modes without the black button, or change tracks manually in music mode.
@@gmoyajpgaming No, this kit requires a 12V power source in the pack. The wand boards cannot be powered separately, and AA batteries, even if you used 8 of them to get 12V, would not be able to supply enough current to power the amplifier. C cells or D cells may work, but I just reccomend a rechargable 12V Talentcell battery on Amazon as you'll just constantly go through batteries if you don't use recharables.
I haven't tried it myself, but a lot of people ask about this and nobody's told me they weren't able to fit it, so I assume it can be made to work. The main things that might cause issues would be the powercell, which is 3.75 in x 1 in, and the switches, which I believe are plastic and non-removable on the Spirit pack, and may not be true toggle switches which would require you to replace them. You'll have to gut the existing electronics too.
The link is in the description. Its the Rabid Prototypes Positron Proton Pack Kit. On the website, click Cosplay->Proton Pack Kit, or Featured Products->Proton Pack Kit. They're currently in stock and ready to ship immediately!
There's no tutorial needed for the battery pack, you just plug it into the kit, or into the switch harness and then the switch harness into the kit, if you opted to purchase that, and there is another lead which the optional charge cable can extend outside the pack. Its easy to hook up. As for their "40W" speaker, I don't reccomend those. First of all, they're tiny 4.5" speakers which will produce very little bass, and won't sound nearly as loud as a 6x9 car speaker at the same volume level. Second, "40W" is just the max power the speaker is rated for. But with an 8 ohm speaker like that, you could only reach 40W if you had a 24V input. With a 12V input like we're working with, that speaker will only put out around 10W. You need a 4 ohm speaker to get 20W from 12V, and their kit doesn't support that, while my kit supports two 4 ohm speakers giving you a total of 40W of output power.
Yes! I am placing the order for the next batch today, but I will only be ordering a handful of spares so if you want one you'll need to place your order as soon as possible! You can order them here: rabidprototypes.com/product-category/kits/
You didn't leave the period on the end of it by chance, did you? You can also email me at scswift@gmail.com if support@rabidprototypes.com doesn't work.
It uses an Arduino and an Adafruit HT16K33 LED driver breakout to power the LEDs. The LEDs are mounted on a custom board so they are arranged in rows and columns as required by the LED driver which multiplexes them. The sound is provided by a peizo buzzer. It's fairly straightforward, though wiring up the LEDs for multiplexing without a custom PCB would be a bit of a pain.
If you're interested in commissioning something, please email me at: support@rabidprototypes.com. A prop like this will run several hundred dollars, and the price will vary depending on if you are looking for a finished piece or a kit to paint and assemble yourself.
Dude, I think your project is awesome and if it fits my requirements I will potentially buy hundreds of these. I'm using a Mega ATM and I'm starting to run out of SRAM space. How much Flash and SRAM space will it have? Can I connect it to a 9V external power supply, like with the Zero? Finally, does it have an on-board Real Time Counter (RTC) as with the Zero?
Juergen Ruschkowski To debug you can either do serial debugging over the USB port in the Arduino IDE, or connect an Atmel ICE to the board's SWD port and debug properly in Atmel Studio.
