North Light Photographic Workshops, founded and run by Bill Schwab is a photographic studio in northern Michigan that is the base of photographic experience, tours and instruction for photographic artists around the world. Whether it be physically attending one of the workshops offered onsite or following along through instructional videos offered here, we have taught many a variety of new and traditional processes. With several online already, the plan is to add more as well as more in-depth studies of subjects already covered while working toward becoming a stand alone source of valuable information on photographic practices and processes as well as system of support for the physical workshop facility in northern Michigan. Please subscribe to the channel for more!
Hi Bill, I was not able to find the "playlist" for your sizing recipe over the platinum print, perhaps I'm just not seeing it. Do you size (soak in water and dry) the Hahnemuehle prior to doing the platinum to ensure better registration on your gum layer? Also wondering if I could use the potassium dichromate rather than ammonium? Thanks so much for your excellent videos!!
Hi Nancy. The sizing is the gelatin sizing that is done after the Palladium layer. Let me look up the link. As for using the potassium diagram made, it will work, but it’s much slower.
Sizing Paper for Alternative Process Photographic Printing - Gum Over Platinum Printing - Addendum-1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RSKtmRxsYig.html
That yellow piss color is definitely not it, total fail honestly. If the purpose of this process is simply to tone the print gold chloride would do it like what the hell applying a gum bichromate process on top of a salt print ?
@@fredlada1634 no content. Just as I thought. Sure. Gold chloride adds one color. Why don’t you show us something rather than tear down what other people do?
In all seriousness, thank you for having folks like him on camera. He really is one of the great photographers and keeps hosting head down and hammers away at his profession without much consideration for his social media presence
Thanks again for these videos! It seems that the QCDN blocking density curves are now sorted by printer models under a folder called "Blocking Density Curves". I believe the bloking density curve you are using in this video is now called (printer model)-Standard-Blocking-Test.quad. Correct me if I am wrong. With the cyanotype process, using the Standard-Blocking-Test.quad gives a very narrow range: pure white seem to be at 10 or 15 (so even going + 2, you only reach 25). I guess it has to do with cyanotype have a very limited range. However Richard has added a blocking density curve for cyanotype (printer model)-Cyanotype-Blocking-Test.quad. I will try it and see if what it does.
Thank you so much for doing this series! Its 2024 and I am just getting into QTR. It doesn’t seem like many things have changed since you made these tutorials but I am wondering if QTR and QuadToneProfiler-Pro DN is still the best way to go.
Dichromate is the hexavalent form of chromium. From the Wikipedia article on chromate and dichromate ions, “Hexavalent chromium compounds can be toxic and carcinogenic (IARC Group 1). Inhaling particles of hexavalent chromium compounds can cause lung cancer. Also positive associations have been observed between exposure to chromium (VI) compounds and cancer of the nose and nasal sinuses.[11] The use of chromate compounds in manufactured goods is restricted in the EU (and by market commonality the rest of the world) by EU Parliament directive on the Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) Directive (2002/95/EC).”
Sorry. Not being a Windows user, I can’t help. Try searching for gang printing software. Canva is mentioned, but I have no experience with it. Good luck.
I really enjoy your videos. It is nice to watch the progression through different exposure times. I also like that you share when things are not quite right. That is how we learn. I did not catch if you said what the F-stop setting on your lense was? I have a big learning curve with the lense I got, I know it will be just trial and lots of errors!
I know you complain of heat. I have a similar trailer that I very easily installed foil backed foam panel insulation in the roof. It made a huge difference in the heat radiating through the roof. It goes between the metal stringers. Then just screwed a few stringers the length of the trailer to securely hold them in place.
@@smithsphotography1 you know. That’s a great suggestion. I never thought it would make that much difference, but I recently put some insulation into an attic room and it made all the difference in the world. Thank you for the tip. I’ve also got some issues with the ceiling in the front pitting from rust on the outside. I’ve been thinking about replacing that section of the roof. I’ve had the thing nearly 20 years now and it’s in pretty good shape, but some updates are definitely in order. Thanks again!
Great image, and the Heritage Park looks like a fun place to visit. I never had the chance to see that one, I spent more time at Fort Michilimackinac (would love to see a plate from that fort). And yes, nothing better than jumping into a natural body of water after a hot day of work!
Thanks for recording and posting! I know it is a lot of work to record and edit, and I love the chance to learn from others. You must get really black hands without gloves ! 😆
Thank you for watching! Actually, my hands aren’t that bad after this weekend. There was a time where I didn’t mind the stains, but now I do mostly wear gloves, but on hot days…
Love this process and the results when things come together. The developments in photography since its beginnings have give us so many options but ( to me at least) wet plate makes the image maker part of the results. Each plate is absolutely unique. Thanks for this great video.
Dear Bill, I have seen many RU-vid videos of you. very instructional. I have read that you have a special curve available for cyanotype and salted printing. However, I can't find it anywhere anymore. can you help me?
Hi there! And thank you! What printer do you use? Basically what I’ve done online is set up a series of videos about building curves for various processes. I don’t actually have a curve that I’ve built that I put out there. If you go to the homepage of my RU-vid channel and look for the playlist on digital negatives, you’ll find several videos there that I think will help. I also have a Patreon that you could subscribe to where I am more easily accessible and have more information that is easily categorized. Thank you again!
Good question. You can have a problem with fogging. Or veiling as it is known. I use a sugar developer with this meaning there is 20 g of sugar in there which acts as a restrainer holding back the developer some. On a super bright day like this, it doesn’t help a whole lot.
Great, thanxalot Bill for this nice equalizing presentation. Losing liters of silver bath to maintenance, mis-judging the light and overexposing by several stops, messing up the work flow with the door still open... That could be me on a normal day out in the field.
Good question. I didn’t even notice that until I was editing the video. What happens is the iPhone dim quite a bit on the 15 version. I didn’t notice it until watching the video that it shows up very well on the video because of the dim light. Apparently, the light wasn’t enough to fog the plate as there were no issues. I’ll definitely be more careful and put it further away next time just in case.
Thanks so much. Really enjoy watching the process of wet plate. I appreciate that you show the whole shoot which demonstrates the challenges of this process.
I have some clips here and there and some photographs, but I built it back in 2007. I’ve had it a long time now. I think I paid $3500 for the trailer. I had it specially made so that it was taller, and I could stand up in it. The rest of it was done at home. I built out the countertops, put in a small 12 V pump and 2- 20 gallon tanks. One for freshwater and one for gray. I have a deep cycle marine battery in there to run everything. Simple, yet effective. I think dry weight on the trailer is about 1600 pounds. I used to pull it with first Jeep patriot, then a Ford transit connect and now the electric Ford lightning.
Amazing work, and thanks for sharing your process! I'm certainly going to try using those masking techniques you demoed today. Also, I'm jealous that you got to capture Detroit in the late 1990s!
@@jurgenburchhart5816 good question. That was a matter of personal choice. To be more technicallly correct, shooting it emulsion side up would be better because you’re not shooting through the film plane. It was a personal choice because I like to see it right reading and having done a lot of them, I also realize that shooting emulsion side up, doesn’t give me any real noticeable difference in my final outcome.
Thanks, Bill. This was fun. Soon, I am going to start experimenting with digitizing my MF negatives with a camera, as you are doing. I have a decent scanner for 35mm, but not the roll film. At some point, I need to make the decision to go digital with the old negs, or print them in the darkroom. I haven’t shot any film in a few years. I have enough negatives, however, to keep me busy for a long time! And, I have got to learn Lightroom. I still do everything in Photoshop, but I’m paying for both! Cheers!
@@JDavidBrown hey DAVID. I’m glad you liked it. I would definitely start getting familiar with Lightroom as it is very helpful. Not only in doing initial editing, but in cataloging all of my work. Digitizing the negatives can be fun as well. I’ve always meant to sit down and be very industrious about it and go through everything, but I tend to just go for the negatives I feel like printing at the time. I’m like you! I have enough negative to keep me going for this lifetime and the next.
