WARNING MUST BE WATCHED MUTED BECAUSE OF INAPPROPRIATE MIND NUMBING VOMIT INDUCING BACKGROUND MUSIC. What is wrong with you people who need this constant Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee Ga Ga Pooh music inundating your feeble minds?
@@JoshuaCollins Our local municipality classifies engine cleaners and degreasers as an item they accept as a hazardous they will properly dispose of. Check with your local trash collection service to see what they take. Auto parts stores only take oil :(
So how are you handling fuel indication etc ?? Also stuff like idiot lights (turn signals etc). Boot time ?? Have an E30 build and would consider it.. But feels a bit half done.
@@SeftonHanley yes, definitely half done. We’re in the process of replacing the DME with a Speeduino standalone ECU. We plan to leave all the other components in place like turn signal/lights/heat control. Boot time with Raspberry Pi 4 and fast SD card isn’t a noticeable issue. Will post another video on all the other stuff soon 🙌🙌🙌
@@SeftonHanley Also working on another circular gauge, but TS Dash can get other data feed into it too. Check out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aA-X9FTGoEs.htmlsi=2bBdIVYFC3Big2dk You can use an input into the raspberry pi via aurdunio similart to this to megasquirt.
Every welder will be different. Generally you can follow the settings on the inside of the panel based on material thickness. Then turn voltage and wire feed up together if weld penetration isn't great. Then we turn it down if we start blowing out the metal. We also use longer stick out with higher settings sometimes and stitch weld as shown.
@@archipeep the 3D file was already made. We originally added a large hole in cura, but the tree support would have added a few more hours. We’re working on fine tuning that 3D file for sure 🙌
@@timbones7659 agree, it needs some more supports directly on the bottom of the step plate. Working in a few ideas for when we drop the new engine in 🙌
@@jeanlance1719 for sure, ran out of height space on the 3D printed model. Will need to adjust for bigger screen or screen that’s a bit wider, but not taller 👍
Just ame across this. 2 things 1. Show a better full screen vid of it rolling. 2. If you can mount 1 board to the wall to mount tools...... why do all this bullshit rolling stuff? Just put 2 boards on the wall
One thing that REALLY help with blow-through is bracing (you know, support arm forearm leaned against something), and starting the weld with the electrode 1-6mm off the material. Just let the wire feed in the air for a bit. The tiny bit of pressure cause by you pushing the wire in contact with the material will cause blow-through. I've welded 24ga sheet steel with a machine only rated for 18ga. My technique works so well that with some practice, you can run beads.
Just turn it down to something like 14amps 140ws, start on the puck after tacking and let the puddle wash onto the body and move fast. Won't blow through and much better fusion.
@@Itsallaboutthebuild I am agreeing with you.. I have worked for Reflectix for 20 years and it doesnt hurt your shingles. In fact it only raises the shingle temp by a few degrees. I have have this the attic of my home for 8 years with zero issues!
Honestly, as a car guy, you lost me at Datsun. Although, I like what/how you do stuff. You have some great ideas. So I am subscribing, but please continue making interesting content.
@@seanday6127 thanks, will depend on your ECU. We’re moving to a standalone speeduino cpu, so tsdash is the way to go. For OBDII check out openautopro or real dash
I am a huge fan of radiant sheeting. The most bang for your buck and it doesnt have to be pretty.Specs on it will claim in the neighborhood of 35% reduction in heat. Yea that's huge.
Yeah but those scratches will be back as soon as it rains or the car gets washed. WD40 will only fill the scratch temporarily. It’s like when you wash your car, while it’s wet the paint looks great but as it dries off the imperfections start to show again. WD40 is basically just giving the paint the wet look
@@Itsallaboutthebuild Well, i was working on Beamers from 1980 to 2000. IT was a "one man show". I was a little dealer and also repaired. I was doing almost everything. I stopped when automobil industry started to prepare all Kind of "traps" for dealer and craftsmen. Was an interesting time...
@@Itsallaboutthebuild ok, f. e. : 1.8 l engine, oilpump. All Beamers before had a small sheet of metal with 3 holes (two bolts, 8mm + one for oil delivery to the Filter. Never any problems there, untill some foolish engeneer had the crazy idea to use the paper gasket and have it as one part with the oil pot below the engine. That paper Was pushed away (or Part of it) and the oil didnt reach the Filter and very low oilpressure on the camshaft.
@@Itsallaboutthebuild All manufacteres are offering a discount the car rental comp. for Promotion reasons.{SIXT, AVIS....). After some time these comp. didnt take any more E30,because the frame, the metal was so weak that Lots of cars were just junk After even small damages, to expencive to repair - nö good business. 740 V8: oil pump was loose. Did they tell? NO. 735 /6 - The pipes to the Cat - converter. The pipes got loose near the cyl head. The pipes costed only a few $ but only for those cars without Cat. Those with Cat had to buy pipes with Cat.... Well, for those who know and can weld - nö Problem.
This is not how you use an ultrasonic cleaning device... the parts to be cleaned should not touch the bottom of the tub! That's what the basket is for... the tub must also be 3/4 full, that's why there is a marking around the top
