Watched 'cause i have an 08 DS full stock w/kaw single engine. I have a GPS speedo and tach. Mine does around 10mph @ 2500rpm. The clutch is tight, so soon as engine starts it wants to move. The clanking is prob the drive clutch weights being slammed by the firing strokes. The orig gasser has a balance weight inside engine to smooth out the kicks and reduce vibration overall. These things are made to climb hills with big fat golfers on them. Mine a 4 seater and I've hauled 5 people up a super steep hill in our area with engine hardly grunting! There is a high speed gear set available for the diff to give more speed. Being your motor is a diesel 2 banger, it should do what diesels are good at...Torque. Monkey around with the driven pulley/clutch, after market gear set, although $$, you may get up to 25mph.
So, with 2 rigid arms attached to the axle, the assembly acts like a giant sway bar, the axle gets wound in torsion if one or the other wheel is raised up in relation to the other side. ....
@@j_moffitt Ford radius arm on the front suspension has large diameter rubber bushes to allow for that articulation. Otherwise the binding could lead to broken ball or heim joints etc. Also, I wanted to Thank You for your 2wd to 4wd videos, we converted a twin I beam F350 to a mono tube straight axle. Awesome 💪
Yes and no. You could leave one front leaf bolt connected but in order to get the pinion angle correct you need to undo the rear completely so that there is no torsion on the axle. Once the rears are disconnected, move the axle up/down to achieve your pinion angle and then you could essentially remove one at a time. Tad bit slower to do it that way but it could be done. Tacking the axle in place is best since you’re going to be swinging a hammer removing the perches and could potentially move the axle out of place not bracing it.
I purchased the largest version, the 65 Ampere one. When I started it, the machine doesn't run. Once the adjustments have been made, I bring the torch close to the piece and it works intermittently, turning on and off. I checked and changed the nozzles, but nothing helped. Since the parent company isn't responding, I wanted to ask you if you can help me understand whether it's the machine that's having problems or whether I'm making some settings wrong. I'm sending you the same video that I sent to the parent company so that maybe you can understand something about it and give me a hand.
Check the high high pressure air conditioner pressure switch.I'll aren't you need to hook about a cumulator that's usually the problem with them because mine had the same kind of problem too, and I've changed that out and I've put the whole ring behind it and screw in the thing and the start working real good I.Got the same kind of pick up you got
happy birthday little lady! yikes! the axle is rough. love those arms you made. very cool. would love to have a plasma table to make cool stuff like this. of course i would be tempted to put "trucks by j.c. smith" on everything visible
Quick question since you have done a truck or two with the air suspension that look up to the job been looking to convert my 08 dodge 5500 to air rear its a farm truck in and out of fields though the ditchs. with just a little gooseneck or bumper pull trailer i dont mind the work. I wanted to try a air liner suspension (butt to long)i do not want to move the fuel tank what would be better radius arm or a four link with track bar. Plus the neck flat bed gooseneck i plan on getting will be a 26 to 30 k trailer. Pointers please other than go buy a new truck or a $5,ooo dollor kit
Nice size knuckleboom for that size of truck! Knucklebooms are handier than a shirt pocket for the correct application. I built one for a headstone company. Had an 8 foot dump body on the back. Nice job keeping the crane mounted low.
Right now the outriggers are stowed in the upright (upside down) position on the crane. Makes the crane easier to handle, and let's it sit flat. After the truck is done, they flip over and the round pads are down.
Kick ass build definitely inspired but wut size diameter back did you use on the front axle of ur build 8-9 inch diameter looks like not enough room to fit up in the front.
If you made a spacer/adapter for the front you could use the same ones as the rear. The bags used here are about 7.5” diameter and that is about what the front spring diameter is, would have to relocate shock obviously.
@j_moffitt The cross members going from left to right How are they flush .. Like, you're putting c channel into c chanel . Sorry my english not the best
One thing wrong with that is the bars should NOT ever be actually parallel. That leaves an infinite instant center. Bars should be set to have an instant center at about the front bumper.
Not necessarily. A parallel 4 link (with a panhard bar) I would argue is the most stable, because it takes out any side to side movement as well as axle wrap under braking or acceleration which in return stabilizes the wheels to the road much better. As far as suspension goes, he chose coils because they are cheap and essentially maintenance free. He could’ve gone with bags or coilovers but it adds cost and maintenance.
@j_moffitt I see what you're saying, that makes good sense. I guess I'd be comparing apples to oranges since my buddies RAM 1500 is leaf spring rear and tows like crap. Rear end swaying every which way as apposed to uncles F150 with leaf springs. They're short arms though which I would think would make a difference.
