Regardless of anyone’s expertise, ALWAYS disconnect the power before working on a breaker box, or any other electrical project. Notice how he gets shocked while working on this install. There are times where you can’t avoid using both hands, and this can be a death sentence to you.😢
What is the model number of that white panel? Have searched for one just like it down here in the states with no luck. Also the way the grounding is done in that panel... Just odd.
Put heated waxed treatment into jean fabric and add durable water 0:09 repellent spray layer over all It will prevent soaking into jeans cotton Congrats to grandma ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vs8_n_pLjMo.htmlsi=0PS0HHx2wIBP9lsr
Condensate is highly acidic with dilute sulphuric acid. This reacts with copper to form copper sulphate and will eventually eat the heat exchanger. Otherwise great stuff geek.
AC motors designed to run on a certain voltage (120vac in the USA) depend upon back EMF (ElectroMotive Force) to limit current draw. EMF is generated by the spinning of the rotor (which is a spinning inductor). Inductors resist the increase in current. When back EMF is reduced due to lower voltage input or if the rotor is not spinning, current draw from the line goes up generating lots of heat. That's why your transformer approaches and exceeds the boiling point of water. Also, the saw's motor heats up, too. EMF is sometimes called CMF/CEMF (CounterElectro Motive Force). Not the best way to control motor speed. DC motor speed control is done by voltage adjustment (cheapest method).
Just my idea............If u take the hot radiator off the heaters air intake and u place that radiator it in in the same room as the the normal hot air tube and let a fan run behind it would that not be more efficient? It wont make a diffence and for sure the heater aint portable as it is now but would that not be the maximum u could get out of heater. (Or run the hot exhaust gasses trough a aluminium/copper intercooler with a fan behind it as thats my best idea of getting the max energy from it but this wont make it portable as they are)
I do this all the time to remove rust. It works very well for pitted or odd shaped steel. Here are a few comments. Real muriatic acid is just 32% hydrochloric acid. Big box stores cheat you by selling a lower concentration. In my area Atwoods sells real 32% concentration. I dilute mine to10-15% which gives me a larger volume for large pieces and is safer to use. After repeated use the concentration will decrease. Always do this outdoors with rubber gloves and goggles. I also wear a leather work apron. Avoid breathing the fumes and stay upwind. HCl will dissolve nylon. PVC pipe works great for long pieces. Towel dry to help prevent instant rust. Air drying creates more instant rust. To prevent instant rust, I brush on phosphoric acid. This creates a layer of iron phosphate that acts as a rust inhibitor. Rinse and towel dry after the treatment. I soak a rag in phosphoric acid and pull it through tubulars to treat the inside. Paint adheres well to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate grinds off easily with a flapper disc. Sometimes I weld through it. Treating with oils will also prevent instant rust but can be a problem when welding and painting. To discard used acid, neutralize it first which creates a salt solution. Baking soda or calcium works fast. A cheap way is to place a chunk of limestone rock in the acid and let it react for a couple of weeks. Reaction times are slower in cold weather. Never leave an open container of muriatic acid indoors. The fumes will corrode all your metals and are unsafe. I even store the new bottles outdoors.
Great video.I had similar idea. How did you attach bigger tube to the smaller tube on the heat exchanger? I am going to use 12v fan on the radiator rather than restricting heater fan air flow. What kind of pump did you use.?Thanks
The heat exchanger is made with 3/4" Copper tube, and 1" Copper tube, joined with two 1" to 3/4" Copper reducers. Product links (such as for the pump) are in the description.
I have a coil of standard ribbed exhaust running around the bottom with a 12 volt pc fan blowing across it. I lose very little heat once the always downward exhaust leaves the unit. Never once have i had a carbon problem.. probably cuz i run up to 10 percent petrol.
Vehicle heating.. have a dedicated or isolated 12v battery just for this purpose. On high lspeed the heater will kill a lesser condition battery overnight and will strand you.
Don't alpine mode and low pump rate reduce the maximum heat output of the heater? The exhaust bends totaling up to 270° which is the maximum recommended. Reduce it if you can. It has been calculated the exhaust wastes from 0.1 - 0.7kW of power depending on the heat setting. One way to capture that heat very simply is to dip the exhaust in a container of water in a thermodynamically efficient curved L shape exiting at the near bottom of the container. All heat is exchanged in the first meter or less of the exhaust pipe. I use an online tool omni water calculator to calculate the suitable container size.
You might try using larger piping for the intake and exhaust. Les flow resistance. Every 90 bend adds resistance. Might need to raise it up a few inches for clearance. I had thought of doing a heat ex changer for the combustion air intake.
I'm at 4 mins of your video and I already see 2 huge fails. 1 too many bends and you're still at the heater. 2 the condensation of t he exhaust fumes will condense and drip down into the bottom section of that U bend between heater and exchanger which will block your exhaust flow, which will give you lower air to fuel ratio, which will give you CO Gass emissions. People like you should take more respinsability when publishing such dangerous ideas. How many people will copy your amazing(ly bad) idea and harm themselves? Please dude!
Nice try, its valued. However, good bit of false claims without any proof. Your 16% is rather taken from high error values. From efficiency stand point, modifications seems to be rather gimmicky then real. Eg.: You condensate exhaust and then you add heat to cooling air for the body( where the temp difference mattes most)...Your muffler maybe only reduce sound of vibrating pipe (lack of gas expansion, cooling or smoothing out pressure waves), not the end noise of the exhaust. Your condenser doing the noise dampening here...Your exhaust modification affecting burn characteristics of the unit. You need to compensate for that with adjusting fuel/oxygen ratio.....lots of problems here from engineering stand point, from data collection and "guess" analysis. You can claim that 2 measurements were different before and after modification. However, I can claim that you just change efficiency of combusting the fuel. Therefore better tune up of the original device would do the trick. From my opinion, you may have accidentally improved burn cycle and think that those gimmicks do the work... I don't mean to take off your enthusiasm, but you are putting your face to your work. So do it properly. Anyway, keep good work.
Looks like a very cool idea. I might be interested in buying one from you, but you've GOT to use a better quality hose! It's already kinked. If you're using the fuel line that came with the heater, it's garbage. Go buy some decent hose to work with, especially since you're building something with fluids that get hot, driving pressure up. How do you keep the line trapped between the exhaust and the bottom of the unit from melting? Shouldn't that go around the exhaust pipe, with a heat shroud to protect it?
It doesn't look the heat exchanger section increases in outer diameter, which leads me to believe that the internal section which exhaust gases run through is reduced to a smaller diameter and thus create a restriction in the outflow. Due to their design, if the outflow of exhaust gases is restricted, the inflow is also restricted and the unit cannot pull as much clean air as it needs to for efficient combustion. In other words, your unit will run rich. This is likely why you are encountering soot in the exhaust.
@@JohannesBrotBaum Absolutely. Whether it will be enough I'm not sure, but I would imagine so. Using two would involve a junction, either a T or Y junction, which would create a little more restriction. Using the blower fan to cool the radiator also creates restriction for the blower fan, which indirectly reduces the amount of air being fed to the burn chamber, since the blower and the intake are driven by the same motor.
@@bluesguitarg a bigger air intake could reduce the restriction a little if you mount an adapter from 60mm to 90 or 100mm and a bigger radiator should help move more air I think
Just so you know... there are also trace amounts of sulphuric acid produced when the fossil fuels burn. When you are condensing the vapor, remember that you are also condensing the acid too, and if you aren't careful and don't have a CO monitor/alarm (carbon monoxide for all the internet trools out there), you will eventually have a problem with pitting in your exhaust tubing, and little holes will start to form.... just be careful and know what you are doing... that is why they use PVC pipe in high efficiency furnace exhaust ... the sheet metal would quickly develop holes
I'm interested see how this performs over time, to my understanding, normally stainless steel would be used in these types of heat exchangers, but of course, copper pipe and fittings are more readily available.
Excellent. I bought a small cast iron radiator off Facebook for $20 I plan on sending my exhaust through before it leaves the garage to increase efficiency.
What matters is that you tried. You have experience now use that for next time. all i can say, soon 50 years old, ruffing it alot. Adapt. in you case i would have used heat packs. That 700W do very little. heat packs in the sleeping bag do more. My extreme -30 i used 10 heat packs. and due to size +4c comfort temp sleeping bag x2. I slept well in a wind cover. Even spent the morning sitting in the sleeping bag while cooking breakfast. and warm tea.
Decrease the amplitude, what you 've been doing will destroy you're motor. To decrease the rpm's one should lower the frequency of the sinus wave. A frequency converter is what you need.
Just a suggestion: make two versions of your instructional videos. One with brevity as its goal, only imparting the essential elements for viable instruction, and one with added info, asides, tangents, etc. I found myself getting a bit frustrated with all the meandering and tangential excursions. Thank you for all the great content my friend.
Excellent video. I love seeing smart young people do projects such as this one. Love the math on simple paper and pencil. If more boys would learn valid things in schools, our world would be a much better place. IMO, a man, husband, father needs to be resourceful and skilled in many ways, lucky are those women who have husbands, boyfriends, who fit these characteristics, and are hands on, logical, practical men, but I have found that few women appreciate men like these. Ladies, if you have a man like this, you have a nice gold nugget and you may not even know it. Likewise, can be said about smart women or children in general who have learned from hands on fathers, mothers. One thing I would have mentioned, at the start of the video, where it shows taking apart the tool, is a note to make sure to UMPLUG FIRST!, and for the use of a microwave transformer, is a word of caution that working with microwave transformers can be lethal if one does not understand the mechanics of it. Unpplugged no problem, but I am afraid some person may just plug it on in stock form and electrocute himself with the output. Explaining that using a microwave transformer with the secondary windings modified to STEP DOWN, is safer, lower turns and heavier wire lowers voltage but increases current without the use of math would be prudent for those not familiar with electronics or electrical circuits, the thing that makes a microwave XMER lethal is the STEP UP windings where it generates alternating unfiltered dirty and killer energy in the KILO VOLTS!
