So I've used VSA, and built my own pumpkins with HiTech servos (from HalloweenJared details & blog) - Just not clear how your doing the gimbals or motion base for the pumpkins themselves, it looks like 2 axis (X & Y), and I'm guessing it's just more servo's, but not at all clear of the mechanical links or mounts on the bottom of the pumpkins and how you got additional XY motion
My first time in pit and the wrist band lottery worked in my favor for a rail spot! Happy to have had it to lean on and try to get a steady-ish filming arm for this incredible moment. Loved the bands reaction so I kept trying to capture them too loving watching her have her moment!
"Girls just want to have fundamental human rights" is the shirt that made you lose all respect for him? I don't think he'd give a rats ass about that opinion anyway
They are foam pumpkins. They were selling them for maybe $20-25 at Michael's (an arts/crafts store) during the Halloween season a while back. I'd never heard of fun-kins but just took a look. Those look similar but they appear a little thicker than the ones I used. Not sure if that translates to more weight but generally less weight is better especially if you're trying not to burn out servos when headbanging!
This is great, I ordered the tach. My car is a 65 with a bugeye dash (and front bonnet). The previous owner never got the tach drive. This is a better solution.
cool! a couple more folks make these and there may be a half dozen of us with 'em... haha! Mine is still holding nicely 7 years later. Careful observers at car shows ask me about how I did that without a tach drive. Make sure you see the note I put in the description: the only change from when I did this is I used super glue for the needle and I had to source a thinner needle off a later midget gauge because the combined PCB and the original needle and faceplate were just a tad too tall.
Hi, any project for 2021? I do still working, trying to configure my 32 servo boad. If you have any link or Arduino Programming that could be sharred, please, I need help! Already bough a 5V 5A font, I guess it will work.
We're putting out the band live this year. People have never seen this new Halloqueen song live, so that's the new thing. I don't use Arduino for this. My SSC-32 is hooked up to a laptop and I program everything using Brookshire VSA. www.brookshiresoftware.com/ I program each servo axis one at a time while playing back the song using a joystick (Microsoft Sidewinder).
@@dmbandme So I will try this way, thank you soo much! Waiting your video circa your instalation for this halloween. It will be amazing for those who live nearby!
@@dmbandme Thanks for answer! I am just trying with a 90cm skeleton. Althought I am just fighting to set the servo controller board and arduino with VSA program. I donnot suppouse you could have some instructions to share with me to help me set this properly. And the funniest part, I had to make the pumpkings by papie mache. Your videos are, for distance, a great inspiration for halloween animatronics show.
@@walterchou6951 which servo controller board are you using? I have mine in a separate box that is not in either the pumpkins nor the skeleton. I just have the servos, and then I wire them to a Cat5 ethernet wiring scheme which connects to the box that has the servo / lighting controller boards and power bricks.
@@dmbandme I am planning to wire with cath5 as well. Already bought the connectors. The servo controller is a 32servo controller board. I have tried with arduino. But still not working properly.
Really love your animatronics and the way you arranged all the musics and sincronism. Really great. I am trying to set some halloween singing skulls, and certainly you are the greatest inspiration. I am Brazilian, and here is not common to have animatronics or quite this spetaculars presentations at our gardens. But because chiledren love this holliday, I keep improving my "haunted" front yard as I can. If there is any kind of instructions for the programming I wonder if you could send me the directions to find them. Thank you anyway!
OK I have done the conversion now. Dismantling the 2306 requires a lot of brute force, to separate the plastic bezel round the dial, which is glued on. Inside that is a metal retainer that has to be levered out of the casing. It is fixed with tabs which can be bent out of the way, allowing the glass to be removed. There is no need to use a hacksaw. I managed to use the original needle. Part of the problem is that the screws that fix the metal disc to the frame stand proud, pushing the original dial forward. I replaced these with 8BA countersunk screws, having tapped the plastic frame to take them. Of course I had to countersink the holes in the disc. The other problem is that if you use larger screws to fix the old dial to the metal disc, they foul the needle boss. I used the original 10BA screws, and tapped the holes in the washer behind the the disc to suit. Quite fiddly to get them in, and Í had to stick the washer to the disc with double-side tape. To fit the old needle to the new spindle, I cut off the hollow shaft from the new needle, drilled out the boss of the old one, and glued them together with the resin used for plastic bumpers. I had to make the hole deep enough for the needle to sit well down and not foul the glass. Getting the needle to zero was extremely fiddly, with much trial and error. I had allowed a little adjustment via loosening the 10BA screws, but that didn't help a great deal. You can't rotate the dial much anyway because of the conduit for the main beam light. I am pleased to get rid of the unreliable dynamo, control box, and tacho gearbox. I now have a modern alternator and electronic tacho, for much less than the cost of a new dynamo.
Amazing! I did have to hacksaw that case apart, glad to know there’s another way! Post some pictures or video if you can. I’m very happy to hear there’s another Bugeye out there with this Frankenstein conversion! It’s usually a point of pride on my car when I’m at the British Car shows.
HEY! What was your solution for the hinge for the mouth of the pumpkins? I'm having a hard time finding something small enough that looks nice, but is also sturdy and fluid. I can't seem to find anything high enough quality. Thanks a million and great work!!
believe it or not a single, tiny, maybe 3/4'' wide brass hinges from a hardware store. I took an x-acto and slotted them into the foam with a couple dots of super glued and I assumed they'd rip out and I'd have to find something bulkier. Have never failed! I think the trick is to make sure that the hinge can swing inward too which you'd never want to program but in the event of a servo issue / positioning, a bump, that it's forgiving and won't stress the hinge. Good luck!
@aaron, There's a bit of confusion about whether you are running this as a service or demonstrating your technique. I really appreciate your creativity and this is NOT a trick question. Please let me know if you are also doing this work as a business. I am looking at converting my Mk. 1 Sprite. Thank you!
Hey there Clifford -- oh, this was just a demonstration of how I managed to do it. It's held up I can say! I'm not selling them or anything but if you found it helpful because I didn't really find any of the other solutions to this problem really appealing personally so I made this video for others to emulate if they like. I wrote it below but the donor gauge is an Auto Meter 2306 Autogage Mini Tachometer and appears to still be for sale.
Me again and appreciate your time if you get a chance. So far so good and I'm also enjoying it, thanks. Can you please tell me the best way to pop the Sprite tach needle off it's pin. I'm nervous about just trying to pull it off. Also, were the small grey screws on the face easy to move as I'm paranoid about stripping the heads. Sincerely appreciate your time and support. If I knew you, I'd buy you a drink. Thank you, Clifford
@@cliffordcohen6671 Hi there! Ok, so it's been a while since I did this but I do think that I just popped the needle off and it was glued. I do have a pair of really long thing needle nose pliers which I think I used to hold the needle from the other side as I applied pressure pulling it off the front. I don't recall the screws being an issue but old rusty stuff can sometimes vary the experience. The trickiest part of this was making that big washer as an adapter plate for the electronic guts to the face plate and I had to set it and drill the holes for each in place and tap it for screws. Post some pics somewhere so I can see the only other twin! At the British car shows I usually compare notes with the other Bugeye owners and everyone is pretty impressed with this hack. I was driving the bugeye yesterday and noticed the RPMs down a bit too low and thought to myself it was nice to have this sensitive of a gauge to know I need to bump the idle screw for winter.
@@cliffordcohen6671 Hi again, I just revived this old photo album in case you were unable to see it before of the pics as I went: www.flickr.com/photos/25950547@N03/albums/72157640796708524 -- Note that in the video I'm using the original needle but in later photos you'll see I had to switch to the shorter one from a later guauge as the original hit the glass. I could have cut out / modified the back steep case to recess the electronic but that was more work than I wanted to do.
great question. I used Hitec and initially thought I could get away with HS-311s. Nope, definitely go with something that has metal or hardened gears. You'll thank yourself later. I've been mostly using HS-485HB
Hey, I’m building my own pumkins this year and was wondering if you used hinges or like a piece of fabric to act as a hinge to allow the mouths to bend? I’m going to 3Dprint a stand for the servo to go on the inside of them
good luck to you then! I found the tiniest of brass hinges, used an x-acto and slotted them in and a dot or two of super glue. I can't believe it but they've lasted for all these years!
