Matt thank you so much. I was looking for a tutorial on polishing epoxy as I built a table for my son when he became an navy officer, all hand done from a liberty ship hatch way from ww2 with challenge coins laid in. It has been close to two years of use in his office and needs to be cleaned up a bit. This is exactly what I was looking for. Great job looks mirror finish.
Does anyone have any advice? I have followed these insturctions to a tee and my cream epoxy resin (marble effect) table will not get glossy again and still has fine scratches I can see. I've tried a couple of times now and it hasnt worked
I thought you were gonna set the top directly on the wood i dont like the pipe but overall outstanding job and creativity,i still love to have it great job
I love the redwood root and the acrylic top, however the table stand is very ordinary to say the least. you seem like a very clever tradesman, surely you could have manufactured something out wood to fit in with the quality of the root.
This has been my go to video for years. I probably commented a couple times over the years. I have referred this video to two new creators… and they both asked me have I ever checked to see if you did a follow up. So here I am asking can you do a follow up and show us the long-term results? I have kept several of my own pieces over the years and I’m all of them has severely yellow and I’ve never been exposed to direct sunlight and basically live either in boxes or in my temperature controlled work spaces. PS thanks a million! Great test!
At the end, when you ask which one is the clearest, when looking the beer can through the slab thickness (@ 26:08), we can actually read "Especial" only with Wisebound. It's then the clearest.
WHEN I FIRST SAW THIS VIDEO, I WAS SO EXCITED, TO SEE THE FINISHED PRODUCT!!! AND ALL THE WORK!!! I LOVE THE WOOD!!! IT IS TRULY A MAGNIFICENT PIECE!!! BUT.DUDE.. YOU RUINED IT, FOR ME ANYWAY!!! OMG!!! FIRST... WITH THE RODS...SO FRICKEN UGLY!!! WHY NOT POLISHED STEEL??? SECOND...A PEXIGLASS TOP??? MAN THAT WILL SCRATCH ETC., SOOOO BADLY!!! WHY NOT USE GLASS??? OH WELL!!!
To be honest, that extra base plate kind of ruined the concept for me. Also the two rough looking rods are not the most pretty. In your place i would have inserted 4 or 6 polished stainless steel small rods at the top to support the top and get to the right height.
Cant believe so many negative responses and 65.000 dollars is a drop in the ocean for such an exquisite peice of ancient wood .you get my vote and for the people worrying about do you use live or dead timber.i think its age of 150 years old answers that question.do i detect a little jealousy😂
Did you apply a mold release before pouring? If so what mold release do you recommend. I’ve read that Johnson floor paste wax was recommended as a mold release. Your comments please.
Alimilite Amazing Resin is very poor at keeping it's hardness sadly, I've tried it and ALL of the figurines I made using that particular brand started to sag/melt in warm weather!😔
@@letswalkinthewoods1462 They start to melt/sag in a simple warm house in no sunlight at all, warm temperatures period. This brand don't even get all the way hard like it should, even after a week of curing you can still make indentations on it with a slight press of your fingernails😞
@@letswalkinthewoods1462 The best brand that I've found so far is JDiction if you want a good solid final outcome👍 I used this Armilite Amazing Resin brand because I had a very large order that needed to be casted in a short amount of time and I didn't have enough resin to complete it in the amount of time given, so I ordered it because it was the fastest to be delivered, a big mistake on my end. I mean it's ok for messing around making personal items that you don't really need to be solid, but if you need/want it to last for a very long time and keep it form for yourself or for some customers, then that's a BIG NOPE!👍
I cant believe people's comments about the 2 small rods on that huge table. Such a exaggeration saying it ruined the piece. People are just looking for things to complain about. This table is absolutely awesome. Two support rods dosent change the accomplishment this is.
I love this video. It's a professional approach and is objective rather than subjective. I was surprised at the difference and variance in some of the manufacturers resins. There were clearly 4 that excelled. All that I have to do now is find which are available in the UK ! Thanks for your time and effort in making this video !
My 1st pick after uv test was superclear. After polishing I like incredible solutions. They are close but i think superclear was the cheapest so id go with that. If im wrong let me know. Again thank you so much for sharing this important video.
Excellent work! I've done some mahogany, It was a class project and I couldn't get near enough time on the lathe, but wasn't that bad. America doesn't have enough quality wood, they cut it all down.My sister had a black oak or walnut in her yard and paid these guys $1000 to cut it because it was tipping over. They should have done it for free or paid her, they let het keep a slice for a wedding cake and it was top notch. Africa and South East Asia has all the high end but it's disappearing fast. Good luck with your projects, you've got the talent!
If you sand to 5k grit, then use a 1500 cut polish, how doesn't that add more scratches being a more coarse grit? Also, I always thought the wool buffing pads were to remove any remaining polish?? Isn't the wool pad always the last step and the black, green, yellow come before it?
Sorry just hit the default…lol. Watched your video on polishing resin. Great tutorial by the way. I’ve been trying to finalize a few gloating chess boards. Didn’t like the flood coat because of crap in the air. Decided to give your technique a try. First real attempt wet sanding. Had most of the things you’re using. Gloss I got but also major swirls. A couple of questions if you have time. 1. How long did you wait before buffing resin? I took my sanding to 220/240 like you suggested. Looked good enough to proceed. Wet sanded to 4000. Stopped at 4000 and went ahead and began the buffing. Nice gloss at the end but noticed the swirls…ugh. Went back down to 220 and tried again. Same end result. 2. Wet sanding. Damp or wet? I’ll assume wet. Trying to figure out where the swirls came in. I think it came in at the first buffing stage. 2200 seems too high and may have scratched the finish…? 3. How far back should I have gone to remove swirls? Should I go as far back as 80 or 120? 4. Lastly, how do I know when I should get a new pad? Care tips with used sandpaper and buffing pads? In the end I’m thinking I didn’t wait long enough for the resin to fully cure? Waited about 2 weeks. Full cure 30 days…? Thank yiu in advance. Keep the videos coming. JB…aka…All for the Love of Cedar”
I have a lot of Nor Cal Black Walnut (the only real "claro") in the yard so I bought a wood mill and I'm slabbing it. Now I am making stuff and I need some clear. I decided on Super Clear.
I use super clear for most of my projectsand very pleased with their quality but damn wise bond was definitely the clearest you could read the label almost prefect through the side view so they get the win in my book
