Towards the end of the movie they are surfing a left that is an awesome wave. I won't say the name, but myself and 2 friends went there several times and were stoked beyond belief.
I'm 76, an old timey surfer .. I still have a flex fin made by that giant...I used it off and on for many many years on various boards. It would rocket you up the face,
GG is a talented and industrious man, but wow did he get into some hazardous work. Barefoot in the junkyard? Homemade blast furnace? That scene with the LEAD? What a legend.
i got to ride shotgun in the highway patrol car....yes you can see the roadway passing by through the floor board...and yes the tranny had a whine to it in third gear....
He came to San Diego in the mid-to-late 60s can't remember exactly when but there was a whole group of knee borders that spent their time at a place at Sunset Cliffs which in the summertime had a great inside break called the boil. Most of us were making our own boards then and when everybody saw those spoons that he was making and how flexible they were my friends all started making those and I had the pleasure of riding many of those old spoons. So lucky to have been part of that generation of surfing and my brother and I made all of our own surfboards then. We laid up our own fins and made our own shapes . Thanksgiving of 1969 my older brother and I drove from San Diego to Santa Barbara and spent the 3-day weekend surfing perfect Rincon what's 6 to 10 ft faces and so many people out. I remember I was riding a 6 ft 3 all down rails with a diamond tail and a rounded nose and my brother was riding a 5'6 all down rails with a square nose and a diamond tail and Keel fins and all the boys at Rincon were still riding 8 ft plus boards and boy The Gauntlet that we how to walk down through on the beach the paddle out was ridiculous with all the people yelling at us. Great memories. I never owned a surfboard that I didn't make myself
Thats true freedom on the inside of that wave. Whats been done to us in the western country's, is this freedom has been stripped away gradually over decades. So slow thats it hard to see. By debt, govt legislation and Acts. The way our society's should function is like the inside if that wave. The very best reason someone should not be in power is because they want that power. We must start to see very quickly the forces lined up against us. Not just in the US but around the western world. If you live in the west Russia is not your enemy. Rather The Neoliberal state is. Corporate power aligned with govt. In the west from Germany to New Zealand Govt's have gone to war against their own people. Why you may ask? The answer is so simple yet so many of us fail to see this even though now it's in plain sight, the fact it's now in plain sight should terrify you.....Because it does me. It means their getting closer to the goal: of compete control over those of us left After the cull by vaxe_seen. IT's all there on utube, Rumble, the web for now. If your late to the party, you best work it out because you cant fight an enemy you cant see. Hint the left vs right is a compete red herring in all western country's, again all western country's not just the US. No doubt Trump will be better than the other lot, but if your looking to Trump to save you. Sorry it's not happening.
I invited a girl from my high school to see this on a first date. I was stoked out of my mind, particularly seeing those inside the barrel shots. She, not so stoked. We never went out again unfortunately. But yeah, it's a surfers film for sure.
Only time I met him was before I knew who he was, then my buddy showed me the inner most limits of pure fun, this was the late 90s while going to school in SB, been a fan of his movies, and innovations ever since
Quote: @ 6:10 maintain control even when the board is airborne.. Where can I get a scag to do that LOL............................ Love George. always.
