You said "old", and I said "yes, I am". Love the inset, with main screen test points. I still remember getting parts directly from the manufacturer's, was hit and miss as well. Great Repair and Video! Thank You for the Continued Education, and Entertainment!
13:54 rapid, clean technology Thanks for the shout out that sucks about the chips that’s why I don’t order from anywhere but inner gadgets try them out And they’re pretty reasonable on prices
Easy fix.Planned obsolescence. Make it so you need to take it apart to clean it. It breaks easily while you do it. Ps5 sony garbage. The fix is this. Grab a USB cable, cut off other end. On connector plug that came off board. Solder on 3 2" leads. The 2 outside wires, twist together. They go to the positive on the cable. The center is the negative. Solder it to the negative wire on usb cable. Insulating wires, test it in a 5 volt USB wall plug. If it works, close the bottom of ps5 the up and plug the USB cable in the back. This worked for mine. "F" sony, they did this on purpose.
you are a lucky guy lol You’ll love using the scope I use it for lots of things Specially, fixing power supplies looking at the wave forms of the power for the game council I use it for clock signal and the fun part that I haven’t got into too much is decoding reverse engineering have fun learning your scope
Make a new one. Solder braid works or copper tape like I use works. Same method, just with the addition of having to trim it down to an appropriate size that won't touch anything it shouldn't.
The older version like these had a set screw . The Allen wrench is included with the tool. The newer version does not have a set screw. The bits just plug in. Speed is controlled by button push, push it more than once to increase rpm.
Tried my first port replacement on the switch and i pulled about all of the same pads, i tried flowing from underside while applying pressure, i applied too much pressure. It was a switch that had been laying around with a no power issue.
Pressure is not necessary. If you heat from the bottom with the board either hanging off the bench or in a holder like I use that slightly elevates the board off the bench it will just drop off. Won't typically pull pads with that method if pad damage doesn't already exist. That being said it is still very repairable.
@bryanfrye8770 I have. I don't personally like them for something this intensive. I find them a bit tedious compared to jumpers. That is possibly just me. I had a lot of practice running jumper wire prior to lugs even being a thing.
@bryanfrye8770 Any 36-40 awg solid single conductor wire should do. Doesn't even need to be enamel coated on these ports as your not doing any crossing or long routing.
My advice is to lean soldering first. There are a lot of devices you can repair just by knowing how to Solder. You will always be learning how to troubleshoot things. There is no mastering that (especially without schematics and board views)
@bryancampbell4604 I may not have been well at the time of that recording. It's been an eventful year and that footage is from months ago. But as of this moment all is well.
@@MicroMageRepair yes about UV forget to ask .. i have UV whitestone its used for screen prodector phones .. can i use it ? by the way its really hevy light and big
Excellent video 👌 think feryines finding it hard to get reliable chips and ports. Joey discovered a few weeks ago that some switch lite ports have shorter pins than the normally ones.
I bought one and am curious of the build. I don't see a way to screw the support pole into the base. The rod is just hollow with no threading. I'm curious if I'm just dumb and missing something or do I have a faulty one.
Nice, review video man you pulled out the old stomping grounds old-school microscope that I started off with that I sold to have a better life for someone to use
I think everyone from our era started with that one lol. It was great for it's time but compared to what is available now it's trash lol Appreciate you!
The MaAnt didn't come with all that many. They where however I thought higher quality. The other set came with a higher selection but lower feeling quality.
If the middle plastic has any wiggle in it then you should. That plastic is the only thing separating all those pins, bad things happen eventually if it's compromised. If it was a clean break but everything else is solid, and you are getting full function / docking then you might be OK letting it ride.
The other day I got to save a Series X with similar missing pads. According to the customer, they first took it to a competitor repair shop in my area 😮 with a big nice shop and everything. They’ve been around for quite a while too. I know it was them too because of their terrible thermal paste job. Always white stuff, all around the dye but not on it. I’ve been correcting it for years. … I’ve clearly had better teachers 😉
Yeah. Agree with you. To get started and become familiar with this type of device: one of that price is very good, that is, before taking the next step to a more advanced one, which of course will be more expensive. As an example, for a Nintendo SW board, while one of my technicians is trying to fix the client's board, I would be doing visual inspection and measurements with this device on another similar "donor" board to speed up the work. All the best. PS: Late but sure my comment and like. I took my father to see his family (Asturias, Spain) and he said he would stay all summer (much better weather than NW Mexico, El Fuerte, Sinaloa, 42 Celsius in the shade today). I stayed for two weeks to rest from the routine and visit my uncles. Thank you so much for sharing Josh. A fraternal greeting from Mexico.
Thank you Carlos! Enjoy your family time, it's a precious thing. Keep checking in here. I have a look at a next level microscope scheduled soon as well as some other interesting things.
My Grandmother used to call underwear Gochi. It looks pretty light, did it move around a lot? It would work for many things though. Thank You for the Great Review Video! Have a Great Day Mage! 😀
