As mortgage interest rates have risen since I made this video, the argument is even more compelling. Although in THIS video exercise, you will come out $9000 ahead by "investing on your own", but remember these numbers are the equivelent of getting a "GUARANTEED" 10% annual return for 14.5 years. That's why I say you can't beat the math of paying your mortgage off early.
The problem I see is that social security is being paid out by people currently paying in. To do this plan you would essentially have to cut benefits currently being paid by 33% and that could lead to a lot of poverty. Also, this is after 41 years, meaning that $1 million would be worth about 1/3rd of what that $1 million would be worth today and considering the safe withdrawal rate is about 4% we are essentially talking about $1k/month in retirement income and the guaranteed social security benefits having to be cut by about 33% to get it. So it might be a benefit if you still have 40 years, but it'll end up costing you if you only have say 20 or 15 years left. I prefer having a safer option with social security and a 401k plan option to compliment it. Maybe, the government should be allowed to invest a fraction of the social security funds into an S&P 500 fund though. That might strengthen the program.
No, the Bush plan allowed you to redirect up to 33% of the amount you're already contributing into "your" account, so there would be no need to cut/increase FICA taxes. The "inflation factor" you mention is moot. Inflation is happening with or without this option.
@@DeathScouter The money you pay in today is directly funding the funds that are being paid out today. It's not sitting in a private account, it's being used. If you cut the amount that goes into social security it's inevitable that you will have to cut social security benefits. There's no way around it. Yes, inflation is going to happen regardless. But it's worthwhile to put it into perspective. That $1 million would realistically be worth about $340k and unless you plan on passing away your first year you'll need to think about the cash flow that you will get from it vs the cash flow you would lose by having less money going into the general fund. Sure, if you are 20, it's a good deal because you have tons of time to let it compound and will likely be better off. If you are 50 you'll be worse off because the cash flow from the money you saved will be more than offset by the inevitable cuts to social security.
@@DeathScouter The only way a cut in benefits would not be inevitable would be if they increased the social security tax and put that increased amount into a private plan. Over the decades you could "weed people off" of the social security system by gradually decreasing benefits and increasing the private section of the contributions. It would be a long term play, but idk if our politicians are capable of making long term plays. 😂
Many times mice will nest in there, around here anyway, so it's highly advisable to wear a mask to prevent inhaling any mouse urine dust. Hanta virus has killed several people in 24 hours flat in my state (some locally) from sweeping dust where mice have been. So you don't want to do this without a mask - unless you have a death wish, LOL! Am sure your friends and family would rather have you here.
Thanks for the great tutorial! And as others mentioned the old coolant needs to go to a hazardous waste facility or some autoparts stores will also take it for recycling.
My crank sensor broke off too, but I was able to get it out with a motorcycle bearing puller set 12mm. It fit inside the plastic remnant stuck in the block and opened up to grab the piece. It came out whole without much force.
Thank you for putting this Review together. Question... Do either resort offer Snorkeling equipment and can you snorkel from the beach or do you need to go on an excursion in order to go Snorkeling? Thanks
There's really nothing to see in the water at either resort. Akumal in Mexico would be a great choice for you if that's what you want (Just FYI). At both resorts, we took the Saona Island excursion booked through Mike Fisher. It had several stops + lunch on Saona Island, one of which is snorkeling at Saona (mostly Sargent Major fish) and if you bring a few dinner rolls from the buffet, the fish will literally eat from your hand. Very cool... but nothing comparable at the resort itself.
Dont act more profesional that you really you are dont things that the shop is Bad deal tell me how you will do the Relearn Prosedure do you have a profesional grade Scan Tool?
Thanks for watching. In NONE of my videos do I portray myself as a certified mechanic. I openly state I'm "just a guy" trying my own repairs and showing you what you'll experience if you attempt these repairs yourself. Yes... i have a scan tool to clear the codes, which I can also do through my after-market radio that integrates with the PCM and lets me see/clear codes.
PLEASE NOTE that I am referring to the wrong bank in my narration!! I was originally told (by a Jeep dealer mechanic of all people) that the Passenger side was bank 2.. it is Bank 1. I have it right in the title but wrong in my narration.
Thanks for the video, had mine out in 15 minutes taking it easy. Maybe the 3h that Quadratec lists include going to the store / local classifieds to pick up a replacement motor? That'll be just about right for me today.
I've removed my door multiple times in the past to clean and lubricate the rollers and wanted to point out that on my door you can't simply lift the door and slide the bottom out. That's because you need to be able to lift the door high enough so that the rollers will clear the track that they are riding on. When my door height is adjusted up (by lowering the rollers with the adjustment screws) so that the door latch is at the proper height, there isn't enough room above the door to raise it enough to slide the bottom out. If you find yourself in the same situation, you need to insert a long screwdriver into the holes in the door and adjust the rollers up so that the rollers will clear the track when the door is lifted. You'll need to reverse this process when the door is reinstalled.
Ok so bank 1 on the passengers side and bank 2 on the drivers side … So he’s demonstrating how to replace the bank 1 camshaft position sensor on the back part of the engine on the passengers side of I understand correctly ? Seeing that it sounds like you are familiar with the sensors maybe you can tell me … Do you know how to properly refer to the sensors on the front of the engine ?
@seandooley1901 Thank you for the reply. Have you seen the video of the 30 year mechanic replacing the front sensors who’s calling them “cam phase actuators”? m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vsNJWCTmRJ4.html&pp=ygUnQ2FtcGhhc2VyIHJlcGxhY2VtZXQgMjAxNCBqZWVwIHdyYW5nbGVy He says in his video that the diagnostic scanners call the front sensors cam shaft position sensors but that they are really called “cam phase actuators”. Note that someone comments in his video saying they are not called cam phase actuators and he responds defending calling them cam phase actuators and you are calling them “4 vvt sensors”. Note that in his video he says replacing the front sensors that he’s calling cam phase actuators did not fix his problem and he replaced the cam phasers next, which he says in the comments fixed his problem although he ended up selling his Jeep. So in my 2014 jk with 180 k miles I replaced both of the camshaft position sensors in the back with mopar sensors, replaced the wire harnesses in the back that connect to these back sensors and left the negative battery terminal disconnected overnight and started the Jeep and let it idle for 15 min and my check engine light, ABS light and limp mode remained on. I also had my four oil gallery bolts below the cam phasers on each side checked, replaced with four new oil gallery bolts, tightened and sealed. This also did not fix the problem. I’m now getting PO365, which is bank 2 sensor 1 and of course it comes with a check engine light, ABS light and limp mode. The most recent mechanic said that bank 2 sensor 1 is the right front sensor on the drivers side and called it a cam shaft position sensor, which apparently is also called a “cam phase actuator” or also a “4 vvt sensor” This may sound like analysis paralysis but my objective is to order the correct sensor so that the mechanic can replace it to see if it corrects the problem. Do you know if this is the correct sensor for the front: www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-actuator-cam-phaser~5184101ag.html Note that in the description they are called “actuator-cam-phaser” I’m pretty sure this is what I need to buy but how do I know which one to buy for the drivers side right side? On the drivers side front there are two and the mechanic told me that bank 2 sensor 1 is the one further to the right . Further to the right is a little confusing because in each side on the front they are really close to each other but still it’s the one further to the right side if this makes any sense…
To the guys leaving nasty comments.... I make no secret in any of my videos that I'm NOT a certified mechanic. I'm a guy in my driveway attempting to do my own repairs to save money, and I make videos to show other people exactly what they will encounter if they attempt these repairs themselves. What you see is what you get. If you don't like my videos, then don't watch. If I say or do something "wrong", then CORRECT me so that I and others learn from you, but there's no reason to be a dick about it.
Thanks for posting So you are demonstrating how to replace the camshaft position sensor on the back part of the engine on bank 1 (the passenger side) ? I have replaced both of my camshaft position sensors on the back side of bank (1) and bank (2) with mopar sensors I’m now getting po365 which is Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Row 2 Sensor 1 Someone told me camshaft position sensor row 2 sensor 1 is one of the two sensors on the front drivers side of the engine . Do you know if this is true ?
Hi Misty. If there are no codes, it just goes to "DONE" to show that the process of reading codes did in fact run. HOWEVER a flashing Check Engine Light has meaning. It's usually indicating a misfire in 1 or more cylinders. It could be plugs, coil pack, or something wrong with the air/fuel mixture being too rich or lean. Without an engine code, you'd have to start guessing what's causing it. You do have a problem and may need to take it to the shop. Have you gone a long time without changing the plugs?? Spark plugs would be the easiest and cheapest "SWAG" before paying $100/hour for a shop to look at it.
Hello there Paul, nice clip! subscribed already, Is it okay to feature it in one of our videos? You'll be credited with a link in the video's description and a watermark on the screen Thank you in advance :)
