The problem is, people perform a repair, like yourself, and decide they will be a technician for a living, and that’s when the rubber meats the road. Not saying anything negative towards you, I commend you for solving the problem, and for all that you’ve accomplished.
@Post_Tenebras_Lux09 I have a friend with an 04 6.0 F350. It's been in & out of a few different shops in recent years. Just last week, he was telling me he's still having stalling issues. I keep telling him to go online & youtube it. Learn about possible causes and maybe he can fix it himself. Sounds like a HP oil leak or possibly ficm issue to me. He said to me " oh, well i found another shop that has years of 6.0 experience They said they'll bulletproof it for about $4500 and that it needs a new turbo" . Yet another example of shop incompetence headed his way. I can feel it.... I highly recommended to him to make sure they find the cause of the current problem before they bulletproof anything. We'll see how it goes. Maybe I'll end up picking that truck up for a song and fix it myself!
I like both your videos both of them made sense and they were logical put it on a fuel pressure check to determine whether it was a regulator or not about the map sensor is tied into the fuel system if it is glitching out it can actually momentarily shut down the fuel pump momentarily because it's linked through that through the processor
I know exactly what you're talking about with respect to the retract detent not kicking out 100 percent. As of right now, mine does it too. It's frustrating. The detent pressure seems to be appropriate, so the only way i can see to possibly fix it is to lessen the detent pressure lower than you really want it so the the 'inertia' of the level breaking out of the detent carries the lever ALL the way forward. The other thing that crossed my mind is to remove the spool and refine and re shape the actually deformation in the spool shaft that is being caught by the ball bearing detent. Great video, nice job making it your own.
04’ king Ranch 6.0 w/ 173k Thanks for taking the time to share your story. Pretty much exactly what happened to me Buy truck 8k Drop $6k getting seals and all sorts of work done 1 year later I’m dealing with the issue mentioned in video. Going to do the work myself thanks to this video. “No one knows your vehicle like yourself” 👍🏼
Some advice working on these trucks, if you think you can’t do something or there’s no way to do it, there is, and there is a way. Just gotta step back, take a break and do some research. Even if you think you’re biting off more than you can chew, most likely you arent
excellent! just picked up an 05 today from a dealer who gave up and dropped price by almost to a 3rd to get rid of it. Oil is clean ish (no metal), firing on all injectors but missing and throwing codes lol - will be tearing into all these issues you mentioned thanks SO much!
I understand the “stealership” angle, but just know that doing your own due diligence, making sure everything is in its place, and that all the components look right (!?!) (8:57) is not always going to be enough. Believe it or not, the oem scan tool is a godsend when it comes to diagnosing. Aftermarket scan tools don’t show all live data and can lag, throwing off the diagnostic procedure.
I have a 1988 Ford truck with the same engine I'm having trouble with it starting when engine is heated up it cranks like the battery is dead after engine cools down it cranks fine and starts right up any ideas what could be wrong
When it's hot and cranks slowly, pay attention to the tailpipe exhaust to see if when it fires up, it smokes black smoke like it's flooded. The other possibility is maybe your starter is going out. Turning slowly when it's hot. Good luck man!
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve referenced this video. He reminds me of a stellar man that I learned Construction from. He even uses a lot of the same terminology. Thank you for the simple, straightforward explanation and well thought out design.
mine is 3 years old been thru 3 sets of valves rugged made warranty is great people are great at getting parts out just wish i didnt need them . has leaked hyd oil since day one log craddle you took off has been bent clear back to craddle engine has been great log lift gets bent up needs a angle iron welded on next to beam to avoid this hyd oil filter housing was replaced but still has filter vibrate. loose love the speed and power needs engineered better beam log lift and craddle need to be same height so moving peices back to be resplit is easier tounge weight can be adjusted by moving the tire forward your modes are great for the money not a bad machine but could be better just ordered a vertical with elevater from wolfe ridge cant wait to get it and speed up my production
Do you recommend going with all ford parts? My 1994 F350 4x4 dually is doing the same thing. I replaced the MAP sensor and pressure regulator with Oreilly parts and ran good for 400 miles and started again.
Yes, if it were me, I'd go with all oem parts. In the end I believe doing research and throwing parts are better than putting your trust in most shops.
Having these issues as I speak. Repair shop charged me 2700 dollars to fix my truck. Truck sat for a year cause of an injury I had and just went to take for drive. And brake pedal was really hard to push but pedal would not come back up. Took to shop again and 642.00 later they said it was the mechanical pump. Replaced that came home woke up today and now pedal goes to floor and slowly comes up. I am flat pissed off at my ford. I do I trouble shoot my issues alone. Have no one near by to help with bleeding of the brakes.
My 1990 F250 5.0 has had surging idle and has bugged me. The interwebs have told me its most likely the MAP sensor and will be replacing soon in hopes to resolving the issue. Great clear video, thank you!
Right on spot my 05 was doing the same thing my turned out the IPR was bad replaced it with the Ford made part. He's running like new with only 250k. Thank You Sir....
This is the dumbest truck I've ever had the pleasure to own. MONEY PIT.. I'll never buy another one and I do not recommend anyone else buy one. You will sink tons of money into it. Because every problem you'll have is related to another one. And you need a dealer to keep it all right.Or watch these kinda videos and replace every damn thing on the truck. You 'll end up with a new truck eventually... $1,000 damn dollars I have spent over this BS issue. Vacuum as well. It's controlling it too. My idle was trash.. After replacing all the crap your video said to and other videos said to.. I still had the trouble. That has lead me to these damn brakes. and ABS.. It's BS. I replaced all the brakes. Front & rear. I'm not putting any more money into it. My ford is a Wrecker.. And I can't even get it right. $7,000 wasted dollars. I'm ready to shoot myself.. It's BS.
The profit motivate at the core of capitalism is the issue for nearly all that ills society. Solidarity and congratulations on your journey to self-sufficiency.
Exactly two experts and now I just put a new engine in because those experts sucked butt. I have to finish with a few new parts but I'll get it done. Hpop ipr and injectors,
Own 2 of them. Ones always down. Get one going the other comes up with some mysterious problem. Always when i get it back together theres something else in the codes. They're great when they're right, they just dont stay right
The detent on that valve is adjustable. It’s the adjustment at right angle to the spool, loosen the lock nut turn the outer adjusting nut out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn (looser). Try that it fixed mine.
