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Its too bad the Landlord tenant courts are so horribly behind. It takes years and cash to take any one especially lease breakers to court and most people know this...Just get rid of tenant and try to rerent and find someone honorable.
Just used this for the 2nd time lol. Just a heads up, the quality of the starters you find on amazon are not great. My oem starter lasted 13 years. The one I bought from amazon lasted 3 years. I just replaced it again with an oem one, which was more expensive but definitely worth it if I don't have to twist and cut my hands up replacing it again.
Thank you so much for posting this - the company we bought from sent us outdated instructions and the drawer slides were completely different than their videos, so we were stuck scratching our heads not wanting to make an expensive mistake. Your video had exactly what we were looking for and your directions are clear and easy to follow.
I watched another video before I tried this myself and found out that the other video had completely unnecessary steps. Thankfully I figured it out before actually following their instruction. This video made sense. Took me only 15-20 minutes for my Nissan Sentra, and that included removing the old one.
I have the same problem but my house runs on a 4000 watt pure sine wave inverter . Some thing about the microwave oven that is brand new , that when it starts it trips the inverter . and the entire house goes down . I have cooked entire meals using my air fry toaster oven ( 1800 watts ) , hot plate ( 1000 watts ) , AC on low ( 580 watts ) , fridge ( 120 watts ) , freezer ( 120 watts ) , and the rest of the house that totaled 3375 watts all at the same time with no issues . It is just something about the start on the microwave that causes the inverter to trip and the rated watts for the microwave is only 1350 watts . So... the cure to this was to simply turn the power down on the microwave to 6 instead on 10 and it runs just fine . My oven is a Master Chef . I have even plugged the microwave strait into the inverter with nothing else plugged in and same thing . Hope this helps if you have the same problem .
Who ever told you that pannel boards are better than planks for your roof straight up lied to you. Planks are significantly stronger and will resist water damage and rot way better than pannel boards. The only advantage partical/pannel boards have is the reduction in weight.. that's about it. If your attic doesnt have adequate ventilation in the summertime the extreme heat can cause pannel boards sag so bad that you can see where each rafter is. Spray foam on the bottom on the roof can cause you real problems if the roof begins to leak. Most insurance companies wont cover the roof or walls that have spray foam for Mold and water damage. Im not against spray foam insulation but it has places it shouldn't be used and between roof rafters is definitely one of them
One of my Forevermark drawers is missing the plastic bracket on one side of the bottom of the drawer box. We cannot find it anywhere. I am desperately trying to find out where I can get one. Forevermark's website has a contact form, but it doesn't work. Do you have any idea where I can get a bracket?
This is just a "no, it's the landlords that suck" video. Your title is misleading. Maybe that's a good sign of a bad property manager...steamrolls the landlord, which most of you do, making it either unprofitable to rent a single family home, or a money pit.
After seeing what some tenants do to properties from my parent's rental home and having to fix it up, and how some places give tenants more rights than landlords, it made me decide to never want to be a landlord. Seems like even if you background check and vet the tenants, it takes just one to bring a ton of stress into your life.
Problem with high electrical bills, not insulation. Its your duct work, its garbage trunk system. OK for basement in ohio, but not OK for Florida. All air wasted. System is working non-stop. Thats why high electrical bills
Thanks. Had the same problem with the breaker shutting down everytime we used our 10 year old GE JVM3160DF microwave. I unplugged it and tried toaster and kettle on same circuit, no issues with breaker tripping. Unlikely it would be the wall plug, those either work or not, so it had to be the microwave itself. After a Google search, I found this was a very common problem. Followed your instructions, way better than some others I found. I ordered on Amazon both types the KW3AT-16 and KW3A, to make sure I changed all 3 of the switches. Got a set of 3 each, enough for another time for less than 10 bucks each set, with the expedited next day delivery, 30 bucks in total. Can't go too long without a microwave. For the extra 9 bucks a set, not much point in changing just one switch, then after re-assembling finding out the fault was with one of the others. Had to make extra sure I installed each switch labelled "open" and "closed" properly. Watch the plugin prong, top side on the switch unit is open, bottom closed. I washed the plastic cradle for the 3 switches and let dry. Dust and dirt issue. I took pictures as you suggested as I was taking the unit apart and tagged each switch, top, middle, bottom. Reassembled and no issues except the door came off, so had to struggle getting it back on. I put a little silicone lube on door oven latches and catches with a cotton swab. About an hour's work, with clean up. I guess if I brought in a tech, would have cost me $120-200 for the service call plus parts, or if I bought a new oven for $300-600 plus installation and take away (extra $120-$200), you saved me a ton of money. Thanks again, great job! Cheers!
I did all this work , spent $40 on parts, switches and suggested black switch latch holder. Was not the issue . Test everything before you buy anything.
@@russram210 either the magnetron or the capacitor it appeared. The capacitors are known to short and are inexpensive but I was not going to pull it down and redo all the ductwork they needed to be done to see if it was just the capacitor or if the magnetron was shorted. I new over range microwave was only $219 on sale .
What about the good tenant s that always obey the rules and do right, and when something need s fixed and they say oh we will get around to it just pay the rent.nope ! U get what u deserve and then some!
Great vid, straightforward and easy to understand. As per your method, the 3 switches all test okay, and the oven still functions well. However t this Samsung unit does not trip the 15A breaker (surprisingly), but consistently draws over 16 A. Rated input is 1500 w at 120 v. Should draw around 12.5 A. Not sure what to check next and would certainly appreciate suggestions. Thanks It was repaired some time ago under warranty. Service tech replaced the magnetron and transformer. Is it possible a higher power part was put in place, drawing more current?
So after 4 years have any issues come up? I am concerned about the heat onto the surface of the asphalt singles will bake them to failure because there is no heat transfer into the attic.
No issues on the roof shingles. I found that the attic is susceptible to high humidity, and worried about potential mold, I opened a couple of ducts so that some of the a/c leaks into the attic and gave it more airflow. That seems to have lowered humidity without making any significant difference to my electric bill.
Why can't you do the same thing basicly with a heavy duty double male ended cord by shutting the main power off to your electrical panel coming in from the outside. Then plug that cord into your generator and the other end to an outlet ther by energizing the panel. Turn off all circuit breakers in the panel except the ones you want to run. Wouldn't that get the same results by only energizing the certain circuts you want to use without all the fuss and bother of a transfer box??
Yes, it's essentially the same thing... except for one huge difference. Safety. The transfer switches are designed to allow you to easily and safely switch from street power to house power, with ZERO chance of those two power sources connecting. With a transfer switch, you also never have to turn off the main breaker.
if you are poor, having a pet is a bad idea. Having a pet costs money, which many people don't have. Landlords should prohibit pets and do monthly inspections on their property. The first sign of neglect should proceed with an eviction.
After 3 years , what is the verdict? Do you still see the same results as earlier? Do you know how long the foam will last? Would you do it again when compared to the cheaper options?
Thanks a million for this! Mine blew a fuse, so I removed the 20a 125v and put in a 20a 250v and it still blew the fuses. I just did you troubleshooting method and my middle switch doesn’t beep when door closed, but beeps when door open. Pulled it out and it had what looked like it burned out. Ordered some new switches and will see what happens.
The switch HOLDER is wore out where the door latches slide in. There are groves wore where the door HOOK latches go in allowing the switches to engage or disengage at the wrong times or not together so the middle switch gets a serge of power burning it out.
Thanks! used your video twice - 1 switch went last year and now the middle one went. May need it one more time when the top switch goes. Thank you for posting!
What specific cable did you choose to use from the inlet box to the transfer switch? I think they recommend 10 AWG, but for some (10/4) they say a max of 25A. Did you go with 8/3 WG?
