Very nicely structured, informative, and well shot video. But I do have a question: I am currently preparing for a project where I want to make a new leather harcover for a book. I landed on "Apple leather", because it is very thin, appearently nice to work with and reasonably priced. Would you happen to have any pointers on painting synthetic leather? Can I just stick to your tutorial or is there something I have to be aware of? Best wishes
Hey, with synthetic leathers, it's really about understanding the material and surface, since they're essentially unique when compared to natural leathers. Key would be understanding what the surface is coated with, and what the underlying material is. For example, some solvents might help prepare leather, while possibly damaging plastic (in some synthetic leathers). Some deglazers work well on leather since they'll remove coatings, waterproofers, etc., though not the underlying leather. So mainly just check out that what you're prepping with will be ok with the unique apple leather you're using. If it's a coating similar to what's found on synthetic leather sneakers, etc, then the angelus line of products can likely work great. And best tip would be just to try it on a sample piece. Deglazer work or ruin it? No biggie, it's just a scrap. Then when you know all is good, can proceed with the real-deal. Sounds like a fun project, good luck!
@@internationalleatherclub Thank you very much for the reply! I'll definetly try with the scrap-piece first thank you again and have a lovely day/night
Hello! Most often a cotton, lint-free cloth can work great. T-shirt material can be excellent. White can be best as it'll show easily how much color is rubbing off, and when it's mostly picked up as much as it can (and cloth is still white after rubbing. And depending on the item (sometimes it takes a lot of buffing/rubbing), using a rotary tool or drill can make the job go faster. Just need to be cautious of the item, for example it might work well on a belt flat on a table, or for sturdy boots, might be too rough for a wallet or fine watch strap.
@internationalleatherclub hey thanks so much for the speedy response I did a knife sheath black like in my video shorts lol now it's rubbing off I wanted to buff before I wax it 😀 🙌🔥
The diamond shaped tips generally work well for creating larger holes and for thicker threads (and light lacing). It provides enough room for the thread to pass through without stretching the leather or pulling on it. They also help provide a bit of a different aesthetic (up to preference). The more flat ones can create smaller holes, for thinner threads, at different angles. These can work well for more finely crafted items such as watch straps and small wallets, cases, etc. Approaches can be mixed and matched, though that's a broad generalization. For more detail on any specifics you're curious for just let us know
This was the exact kind of leather videos I was looking for. Everybody’s trying to vaguely hide the ‘secrets’ to working with leather to get more views or sell their products but u is pretty kosher. Came here from your short btw
Thanks for the message! We try to be as transparent and trustworthy as we can to help people learn. Was it the layers short or another? It's great to know how someone arrives here, we appreciate it 👍
We didn't cut the cork open, though believe it's a solid cork throughout. Some other cricket balls have additional internal layers and a smaller cork, so thinking this one is used as the core and solid throughout.
You're very welcome! Thanks for the message. That must be exciting and hard work to tan at home. If you have any tips on beaver tail leather crafting, or would like to share your tannery here, please do!
After deglazing & redyeing a piece of finished leather, you condition and seal the leather-- but would a conditioner applied, lets say a few months after the sealing, affect the leather at all, or will it just sit on top of the sealant? Would it be better to not seal with something acrylic based like resolene and instead apply a conditioner with a protective element, like something with beeswax? Thank you for the lovely, informative video :)
Hi, conditioner applied over a sealant would likely just sit on top of the sealent (if the sealent is a good one and applied well). As to a protective element vs sealant, it can work well, where context of use can play a big role. For example someone looking for an easy solution to help waterproof boots might just go sealent, done. Someone looking to care for an heirloom belt they intend to keep an maintain for decades might go beeswax with periodic maintenance. Usually I've found it nice to keep the leather as natural as possible for good maintenance (especially for items intended to be kept for a long time), so a beeswax-like approach take a little more effort though can give great results. Easy and effective is sealant, though make it trickier to help maintain the leather in some cases. Thanks for watching, good luck with the project
Im redoing my shift knob and it is a curved surface, should I glue it from the center to the edges so that the visible part looks good? The edges are folded and covered by a trim piece.
Hey, generally that can work well 👍 Keeping the glue a thin (enough) even coat can help with even/strong adhesion. And the type of leather used can give some befits in this case too - for example say a softer deerskin will be a little more forgiving with curves than something thicker or stiffer. Lots of options and sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
@@internationalleatherclub it's nappa leather I'm pretty sure, I bought a whole bag of random leather scraps for 6 bucks. I did my best to skive it with what I had (a razor blade)
Hello, it would mainly depend on if the Bible is an heirloom piece intended to be kept for decades or longer, or one to be used often and looking for easy/convenient cleaning. If for easy cleaning and you're ok with the oils and ingredients in these wipes, then they can be helpful for cleaning. If it's an antique or heriloom leather, a very gentle leather cleaner might be the way to go.
Hi, sure - The Waterstain has a bit of a different solvent composition, as well as some waxes in it. It also generally won't rub-off color as easily as the other. So it's really up to preference and application style if someone might prefer one over the other. In both cases, some sort of top finish is likely beneficial, while it will likely be more necessary for the Eco Flo Water Leather Dye.
I am looking to apply acrylic to veg tanned leather that I have dyed myself. Would you recommend that after dying and conditioning this would be the best time to apply the acrylic paint? I would like the final finish on my leather to be sealed with Resoline would I put an acrylic finish after painting acrylic and then Resoline over top or just Resoline on top of the acrylic paint?
Hey, yep you've got a good approach in mind: dye, condition, acrylic, then resolene. It can often be good to test on scrap if you can, to make sure that whatever formulations of those products work smoothly and don't have any unexpected reactions (even though each will be dry before applying the next). Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
Hey, thanks for the feedback, the audio could use some balancing. This was an earlier video and we've adjusted the sound balance in more recent ones, so hopefully they're sounding better! 👍 Thanks again for taking a moment to suggest improvements
In general it likely will. Usually, the more conditioning, or applications of a conditioner, will lead to more moisture and a slightly darker color each time. Depending on the formula it might be slight, and it usually dries lighter than it looks when initially applied.
Have you worked with the various other types of dyes used as inks, alcohol dyes, used for painting opposed to paint. I think they are alcohol based, I'm trying to find out more info on them.
@@JonRobinsonArt Hi, I've used several types of dyes, where in general dyes penetrate into the leather fibers, whereas paints usually sit on the surface, changing the color by adding a layer of pigment on top. Let me know what you might has seen or been thinking and I'll help as best I can!
@@JonRobinsonArt Ahh I see it I checked it out on Amazon, thanks for the name. I haven't tried that one. Knowing the ingredients/formula is often key. Popular manufacturers can generally be a little more reliable since we know more about the formulas and results, though there are all sorts of smaller/niche manufacturers that can make amazing things. I'll keep my ears open if I come across anything similar, always up to learn more about the options out there. Thanks
I want to make a leather tray for loading my tobacco pipes. I bought a piece of veg tan leather and I would like to know if Neatsfoot oil would be safe for consumables. This is my very first leather project. Thanks.
Hello 😃, that sounds like a fun project. I haven't really considered leather conditioners that are safe for consumption, though happy to brainstorm some if it might help with further exploration. 100% neatsfoot oil I believe is generally natural (derived from bovine elements), though I'm not sure if the production process, packaging, handling, etc is tuned for consumption. There are natural oils, like olive oil, that are sometimes used as leather conditioners. Gnerally, they're not the greatest for long-term care fo the fibers (years, decades, etc.), though if it's for an item that is intended to be kept forever, then the utility of that oil might help make it usable in a case like this. Food grade olive oil might work, though not sure if/how it might degrade over time, from a consumption standpoint. Interesting project! I hope this helps with some thoughts and inspire some further exploration, research, and testing. If anyone else has experience here, please let us know! I'd be curious to learn more about others' experiences.
I’m wondering why any company would put silicone in any of these conditioners, with the only reason being as a cheap filler. Silicon is not good for leather or stitching threads. Easy to verify, as all of the better mink oil or neatsfoot oil conditioners from reputable companies specifically state that they do NOT contain silicon.
@@fishkluch Yes it can often make adhesive bonding more difficult, great mention.It doesn't seem to be the best ingredient to have in/around leather fibers long term.
Hello, it can usually be ok if the bristles are soft. It might be worth testing on a small area to see if it leaves tiny/light scratches or not, or even gently on the back of the hand to see if it is gentle enough.
@@internationalleatherclub I recently used the Kiwi Saddle soap on my leather wallet. However, I think I was too aggressive with it and did 2 cycles of saddle soap on the wallet. The leather wallet now is a little dry, How or what can I use to add moisture back into the leather without color change?
@@Colby2Cheese Using a light, natural conditioner like a Leather Honey might be worth trying. In general, any conditioning will likely darken leather a slight amount (some conditioners slightly, some more noticeably). When thinking about most anything drying up (clothes, foods, trees, many thing etc.) when they dry they usually get lighter in color. And when moisture is added, they usually darken a bit. So for leather it's usually about finding a conditioner that gives good benefit with the least color change.
I live in Mexico and here we only have pumpkin soap which is saddle soap obviously made of pumpkin, know anything about that kind ? And any tips on cleaning and maintaining kangaroo leather soccer cleats?
Hello 😃 I've heard of the El Oso pumpkin soap, though haven't used it yet. Many saddle soaps include a blend of ingredients some of which can be helpful and others less so. So I often read the ingredient list and the decide if the ingredients are something I'm comfortable adding to the leather long-term. Kangaroo is a very durable and strong leather. Cleaning with a gentle cleanser made from natural ingredients can be great, then following up with a natural conditioner like a Leather Honey can be good options. If they're going to be used just for a few years and worn hard, then many popular cleaners/conditioners can give good results, water resistance, stain resistance, etc. Most any leather will benefit from separate cleaning and conditioning with natural products, though for performance items, it becomes a much more personal choice of ease of use and performance results. If you have questions on any specific cleaners, just let us know. Good luck with the project!
Literally nothing you showed added up. Really surprised you got positive comments on this. You didn't explain how you went from one unit to another or how you ended up anywhere. You give 5.2 ounces total but the scale shows 3.2 ounces. Seriously?
I'm new to the leather craft.. So I have my piece of leather and I use Angelus leather preparer and deglazer to strip off the old finish, I write Holy Bible and Bible version on my cover. next I condition it and then I put on Angelus Acrylic Finisher. Is that right? Thanks for the helpful videos
Hello, in general yes, if you're looking to remove most of any previous finish across the entire surface that can work (since it might alter the color so doing the entire surface can help make it appear more even in tone once conditioned). If you're just looking to prep the area for writing, depending on the writing medium (paint, gold leaf, etc.) it might be ok just to apply on the current surface, then sealing it with finisher (if it's already conditioned). This could help prevent cracking of the writing if it's first applied to a dry surface, that later flexs differently when conditioned. I'll usually try a quick test on scrap, while you're suggested approach can work really well for most things. Wishing you well with the project!
Hello! Thank you so much for your videos. They are by far my favorite. I appreciate how you break each down by the ingrediants and benefits for each. I am interested in making my own "Pro Dye" and have a few questions: 1) What kind of alcohol would be best to use? 2) What kind/grade/brand of ethanol that's recommended? 3) What kind/grade/brand of oleic acid is recommended? 4) Does it matter what composition of pigment is mixed in with the oleic acid? Mica/alcohol/natural earth/etc I appreciate your help...thank you!
You're very welcome 😃 glad they are helpful. It can be exciting to make a custom dye, in terms of ingredients, there are a range of factors from potency, availability, safety, and desired end result, and more. A great place to begin can be to look at the manufacturer material safety data sheets, as they provide broad breakdowns of ingredients and components used in popular dyes. From there, it's really determing the result that you'd like, and then developing and testing the right balance for what you're looking for. We'd be curious if you pursue it, please share more! Maybe yours will be the next new dye on the market.
Something called a "leather filler" can work well. It can fill in the material lost from the deep scratches, and also dry flexible. Some color match existing leather, and others can be painted to match.
Just think if Vincent rebuffed Warren’s orders pointing out that he already had orders from his superior. Warren also didn’t have direct authority over Vincent.
It's incredible to think of the impacts from in-monent decisions, and what leadership can truly mean in those contexts. For example when is it ok to change the implementation of orders when the present context clearly can benefit from it? And is it ignoring orders or more using the latest field info to refine them? Dan Sickles advancing into the Peach Orchard could be clear ignoring orders that led to negative results. Warren and Vincent covering Little Round Top might have saved the day, possibly the battle (and depending how much value one places on the strategic importantce of the battle, maybe even war). Fascinating to think about! 😃
General Warrens career met an untimely end during the final battles of the war. He was unceremoniously relieved of command of the 5th Corps during the battle of Five Forks by General Phil Sheridan. Two of his three divisions began their attacks improperly aligned to strike the confederates of George Pickett's division. Sheridan relieved Warren for cause and appointed Joshua Chamberlain as commander when he saw what had happened. Warren became the only union General relieved for cause during battle in the war. Warren appealed to Grant but was ignored.
It was great that he was later exonerated, when President Hayes ordered a court of inquiry, and even Chamberlain spoke very highly in support of him. It seems his intuition and ability to read the context of a situation were a special trait for his leadership (Gettysburg, Mine Run Campaign). And exciting that soon after the war he was elected as a member of the very prestigious American Philosophical Society. In the past its members included George Washington, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Paine, James Madison, Alexander Hamilton, and John Marshall. It was founded by Ben Franklin. He was in good company.
I just saw this in my local leather crafting store! I saw they also had Eco Flo "Super Shene", Fiebing's Bag-Kote, & Tan-Kote version, is there a difference between these or is Resolene maybe geared more towards dyed leather? They have the latter in a neutral, so I'm guessing it's a clear coat? Excited to hear your response, thank you for educating!
Hey! 😃 You're welcome, glad it's helpful info to watch. For those products, it mainly comes down to preference on finished look and performance characteristics. Roughly, I believe it is: Bag Kote - water based, soft, satin finish Resolene - gloss acrylic Tan-Kote - Resin based satin finish Super-Shene - Water based water repellent gloss finish What type of project are you planning to use it for?
@@internationalleatherclub Sorry about the late response! Ohh! I prefer satin/matte finishes but does that diminish the protection overall? I don't mind sacrificing the appearance for it if that's the case, but I plan to use these projects while out and about! I work with treats, painting, animal-grooming care--all separate, aha! 😊 Though I planned to also make a few organisers based on hobbies, so some might be bent, is there anything to help with that as well?
@@pimpompim No worries! 😃 For out and about something with water resistance might have benefit, and in general the finish appearance (shiny, matter, etc.) should have little impact on performance. Key will be the components used in the formula and their performance characterists for the intended use you've got. They should cover most leathers well, even those with bends and molded shapes. Sounds like a fun project!
