Wow really cool 😍😍

I liked the brown with pastel light blue after all the contrast/dip paints.

The orange green one is my favorite! ❤😂🎉

Odd question but what kinda glue do you use for those clear bases? Super glue tends to dry with a white chalky finish

I feel like you'd get an even bigger impact if you did three colors for your base coating. A dark, a mid tone and a Dark. With the Green and Orange the colors looked great at the start but I feel like they didn't work in the end due to the lack of contrast. Might look good to do a purple for the dark, orange for the mid and green for the light. Would just need to be a different shade of green and orange. I like the shade of green you chose, but maybe go with a darker orangey red. Something like Orange Red by Vallejo. Or close to it.

Vfar as the wood is concerned you can skim it wit filler or even plaster the just sand it down with a fine grade sandpaper.just make sure it's completely dust free before you cast the mould

That orange primer with green overbrush might go well with a nurgle inspired miniature.

Do not stop doing what you love, you are very good at ti!

Just finnished a scratch build venomcrawler.... these would have came in handy as now have 800 points of Chaos to paint hahhaa 😅

I actually prefer the orange one. It gives it gives it kind of a tone under the skin.

like the third one yep purple

Orange primer would be a cool one for something like tyranids

Print some dragons and do different schemes they be awesome for heroquest or D&D

could you scan an entire human being with this ?

For the price of those cans you could have bought an airbrush. Then you get a choice of primers and bet of all if you just buy white primer you can tint it with ink, getting from almost black (I prefer that to full black, so does Vince Venturella) then you can white Zenith on top. But you can use drops of ANY ink (or think paint) to create any basecoat you want, warm colours for skin, shadow colours for armour, etc.

When will you live stream again? I've been watching a lot of your old streams while I paint, and I need more!

I wonder why the printing lines were so much more visible on the one you primed brown. Maybe it's the resin. That orange primer one was so florescent - definitely something to remember for the right model :)

Dear Sir. In this video you come accross as focused, inteligent and eloquent, a pleasure to listen to. Thanks. Yours, Dan

Looks great, fella! Awesome techniques all round! Bravo! "get me teeth in!" haha - Bless ya! :D

Most hobbyists like cheap and durable resin. What about a showdown between rpg resin, abs like resin and wargamer resin. How detailed can you make them and if the price is worth it

trash bash some models from FOWW nuka factions and compare to prints and actuals,

1:04 The forbidden nutella

Love your videos mate! Made me realise I can slap the stuff on and not worry about wiping the brush all the time. Just dip and paint and let the paint do the work! Thanks so much!

those are dope orks 0,0

Rooks

Fill the mold with dry rice or dry sand. Pour it into a measuring container after. Get a guess at the volume that way. The dry material is way easier to clean out.

What were your settings for this kind of print speed?

If you want army soldier Orks, they have to be Blood Axes!

I love your work! Vibrant colors that stand out on the board and look FUN to play with! And you're doing simple, clean, easy to follow miniature painting techniques!

Did you scale the models down?

Currently remodeling a room in my house for 3d printing since i bought a second resin printer and want to start painting my own mini's. Do you recommend clear coating the slap chopped mini's?

For the bio-chamber. You should put a Slannesh chaos figure.

Oh man now that you told everyone about the RPG resin its sold out lol

yeah

also if you want to compare definition you absolutely need to give figures a base coat most of these high def resins do not actually capture better detail they just have a more matt and opaque pigment that makes it appear more detailed check the aussie once in a six sided dice or so on yt he compared many resins

try elegoo abs like 2.0 resin its cheap and very durable

Over 5 minutes into the video and I lost interest because you still haven’t gotten to Slapchop painting, which is the title of the video. Was hoping to learn something new…instead I’m moving along.

adding the extra little highlights adds so much to the models and making them look great for very little extra time

I feel this kind of thing is brilliant for in person TTRPG games where table size is a factor. Especially if youre not playing at the DMs house it makes travel and storage a ton easier for the DM. This also allows you to have big extravagant encounters without people having to roll dice in their lap lol.

Nice orc army! Can't wait to see the painting 🤩

They make line brushes specifically for doing cross hatching. Your local art store should have them. I'd recommend buying one in-person because line brushes are easily ruined if they aren't stored properly (like when they get sent to you by mail). You'll want to see the brush before you buy it to make sure it's not frayed anywhere.

The more flexible resin is also great for all sorts of other stuff, LARP (though not the actual hitting parts), mounting stuff on bikes etc.

Do you youse a speed paint for the Details?

Good idea to to test with different base coats / layer paint - would love to see that!

That's how I painted my Cthulhu, with a purple undercoat and slapchop greens over. Makes it look so mystic and sinister! Nice job!

Where you got them legionaries from? MMF?

Is this a phrozen commercial?

Nothing compares to Sunlu abs like. Using anything else is waste of money and time because other resins WILL break on you. Sunlu doesn't. You have to basically intentionally try to break a mini.

I dunno what you guys are doing with the miniatures you print that they snap so frequently...

Okay so a lifehack....do not use the flat legobase, just make a big flat plasticine and put the frame on top. Use Silicone spray for releasing and better silicone spread, when the first half is done you do not have to diassemble the entire frame just enough to build for the other side. Now spray again silicone spray, then wipe up the part which is on the silicone(or better yet spray the silicone into some small cup and use a brush to spread it on the figure), then spread a little talcum with a brush evenly on the mold itself. Por the other half....the two side will came apart nicely and the mold will be less lkely full of bubbles