Anything you'd recommend before firing new used .50 cva besides solvent, swab, brush, hot water/soap, swab, dry, blow, clear fire path below nipple, clear/rough nipple, pop a cap to dry out?
@dennistate5953 I have only had one new ML in my life. It wasn't much of a problem to make accurate. Ad for used gins I have used JB bore paste and made a few hi dred strokes to the barrel changing wadding on occasion. I did same to my new barrel as well after shooting it a few times. I have found in most rifled barrels that the more you shoot them the better the shoot. Buffing them out just gives them a headstart. Once they are clean or any rust burrs etc. It's best to clean them throughly. Some times I will put a very light coat of oil onside the barrel and as much as the blueing will hold on the outside. I have found that using Hexigonal Boron dry lube in barrel makes it so much easier to load and clean. I also increase the velocity. I also coat all my projectiles with this HB. This product also works amazing on all shooting sports irons. As a side note, it's the deal for all kinds of things that need reduced friction, like linkages and exposed areas that oil will cause dust to collect. As for cleaning. I take my barrels down and scrub them out with hot soap and water. Blow them down with compressed are and do it all over again. I never have had to use solvent with Pyrodex P. Just S&Water. Warning. Not sure of anyone's history of shooting habits. Don't think that it's OK to wait a day or two after shooting to do the cleaning. The corrosion can sneak up on you quick. I live in Pacific North Wetness. During the season here from Sept through February, it's going to rain some 80 inches. I unload and clean my shooters every night. If I don't. They going to get that rainforest blueing we call rust. I have serviced and cleaned other folks guns for them that have no more rifling in them from corrosion. They leave them loaded all year. I have pulled mudballs out of the breeches of many after 2 hours field. Just as an FWI I use bike tubes loops to cover breech and rubber chair foot caps on barrels on crappy days. I hope this helps. Here is the link for the HB. Every one should have this. It's 1/10,000 inch dust. One can use a small.paint brush for application. MICROLUBROL 1 oz Hexagonal Boron Nitride hBN Powder Ultra FINE 0.5 µ Micron a.co/d/ayB5dNE
@dennistate5953 you won't be disappointed with the BN. If you put it on the hood of your car, noting will stay there. I coat my 30 cal bullets with it. It won't even set off tannerite. It slips through like knitting needle
Thank you! I just was gifted a .50 muzzleloader pistol. Hairline crack on stock. Looks like maybe epoxied, haven't had it apart yet to see what inside looks like. How scared should I be? Would send a pic not sure I know how.
@dennistate5953 I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. Pay attention to how tight your screws are when you assemble it. Oil everything good. Start with light loads, round ball and light charge. Be prepared to cleanest after you take it field every time you store it. The can get ugly fast. Also, try to use pistol powder and not rifle powder. You may have to dowel the broken piece if it let's go again. Good luck and always be safe.
@@radiow7dry thank you. I will check it out. Honestly don't recall but will procure as suggested. Black powder/even Pyrodex is a blast near dusky dark. Used to have an 1858 Army. Helped a guy out. Fun though.
Whether you hunt here or not, you present the gun as “westernized”, mention Idaho, and then proceed to load with components that are not legal in Idaho. Just want folks to be aware.
@GregMartin-wsc2008ss1 I'm referring to the sight issue. The projectile is not significant to anything. People need to know the lawd where they hunt. Even the rules have changed here since that video was published. We can have s 1x scope on our equipment with 209 primer etc.. At one time airplanes were not a real thing, and now they are. Sorry to step across the state line on you.
@benthebuilder6934 I use this for repairs in the woods. Using trees and limbs etc to get this done. Sometime holes are bigger than just a plug. I have had to.stitch sidewalls that had 3 inch long tears and cuts. What ever it takes to get back to civilization. We get 30 plus miles out from nearest light bulb.
I always carry a chainsaw in the woods. Sometimes ya have to get it done with least amout of tools possible. Simple levers with limbs can do the trick. Gotta do what ya gotta do
The Hornady bullet is just a design of the French Minnie ( spelling ) ball. These wear introduced in the old rifle muskets of the late 1800. Think Civil War of the United States in 1863.
The "full bore" is just a shotgun term for no sabot or wad. Touching the full bore @.729 and not .690 or smaller size projectile. The projectile actually rides in the rifling of the barrel. Im not sure if this is what you were referring to
True, even with perfection your not touching holes at 150 yards with most big bore launchers. This isna bit of an evolution that has gone way past this old video.
Wow thank you so much for sharing your knowledge I feel that I can tackle this myself and it's a good thing I watched your video because I was going to drive my truck to break the bead and you told me not to thank you for saving me a tire
Thanks for the video! gonna try this later, but I laughed out loud at 5:14 when you named off the 3 ways I tried to break a bead down yesterday, in that order lmao
I cam up with this not so much for home use. I always carry a chainsaw. Thongs happen 100miles out, you can't bring the kitchen sink, but needed a way to get it done. I should make one.in the woods some day. Would give it more application.
That video has some petina. Since then we have gone a completely different direction. Weight forward on the slug is the key. We will have some more videos coming out once the snow melts a bit. That range is 40" deep right now.
Those magtech cartridges are OK. The problem is they are less forgiving in chamber than plastics. They can hang up easier. Seems like lower the base the better. Been working with this for years now. I only use the brass as a novelty now days. They are not practical. They come with small pistol primer hole. One has to modify it 1st thing to 209. They are made of blackpowder cowboy loads. The brass is very thin, even in base. Plastic shells seem to work the best all around.
So the answer should be on side of barrel. I have seen some that are not. A 45 is .45 inches in hole. 50 is 1/2 inch. Calipers are the best. Just as a tidbit. I have some so-called and stamped 50 cal rifles that are more like .498 and .512 it can vary some. But not much. You should be able to use a tape measure on it and see. Or take it to a local gun shop and have them give it a look-see
I reuse them dozens of times. I usually loose them before I wear them out. Also, they can be hard to find sometimes. They never deform with muzzleoader 209's on me. When you shoot several hundred rounds a year, I reuse the hell out them.
I used an ancient dozer to break the bead on an ATV wheel recently...lowered the blade right onto the tire (tire was on the rim for over 15 years). I thought I was pretty smart. What you did in this video is 100x smarter and less of a chance of damaging the rim. Thank you for this, I've liked and subscribed.
I have filled them with water to deal with that sidewall collapse on bad ones. This is just a quick fix if your in the bush and need to get down and dirty. I always have a chainsaw with me. One can use a tree and a limb to knock this out as well
That looks fun! A lady just gave me one of those a few days ago (the Jukar Spain) and it's missing a trigger guard, end piece, front sight, two front screws, and ramrod. The sear spring is also broken, so I cut a foam earplug to act as a spring, and I zip tied the front of the barrel so it'll stay put. Sometime next week I'll get some .44 balls and .01 patches and see how it shoots. Wish me luck with the Frankenpistol. 🤣I'll have everything on video for my channel.
Sounds like a project. Good luck and keep that barrel clean and protected inside. Hope that it works out. Our woods group link below. facebook.com/groups/774799891011308/?ref=share
I always carry a chainsaw in the woods. I have had to break them down and do some serious repairs. Cut these pieces from limbs and getter done. Good luck. Thank you
I carry a chain saw in the woods. I have had to set up on a tree like this before. Once you get them off the rim, I like to wax the beads so they come off easier next round
I have done that as well. You don't have vehicles in the woods, and I have seen rims bent and wheels broken that way. I always carry a chain saw. One can always use this method when in the woods. The only time I have not been able to break b them down is when the triple wrap the beads with duct tape for low pressure rides in snow. That takes a tire shop machine. Thanks, be safe
I was impressed with it. It was a figure 8 hole at 50 yards. The sabot's are junk. They only hold up at subsonic speeds. Getting the loads to group is not happening above 1150fps. Temp also plays a huge role in this as well.
