Not always true. An SS has round gauges in the dash. The VIN cleared that confusion up for me. Since mine is a four door I thought it was a Malibu. To my surprise, it’s a four door Chevelle with factory eveything but AC lines, distributor, alternator & drum pads.
It actually takes batteries & is also rechargeable. It also has a setting to automatically unlock if batteries get too low. The usb is an option if there’s a power source such as portable battery pack, or a wall outlet. If you change your smoke detector batteries regularly, you could change these as well.
I keep my batteries in a box i use for nothing else and always bring it in at night 🥰 i have makita batteries i got from my dad during highschool that are still going strong because I make sure they're never too hot or too cold
I’m not sure. We left the trailer out at the job site that day, due to ice. When we got there in the morning, nothing was working. After a few minutes of roasting, they worked great.
Hey man. I've got an 81 f150 and when I turn the key absolutely nothing except the occasional bump from the solenoid. I replaced the battery, solenoid, starter and voltage regulator and still nothing. Could it be ignition related?
Double check that your shifter isn’t loose. There’s should be a screw (T25 I believe) under your dash that holds the shift handle in place. I had one of that back off from tight, and that kept the truck from starting because the computer didn’t know it was in park. It very well could be the part I replaced in this video as well. Good luck!
Whilst creative, I would obviously caution against it. Even though the new pump came with a pulley, this is never a good practice. Next time, use a wedge between the fan pulley and the idler right above it. Or, a clutch fan tool.
I don’t think I could make a video on “hot wiring” a car. However, if you watch my video on the ignition switch, it might be a useful learning tool in regards to the way an ignition system operates.
I believe the empty can on the ground was the least concerning issue of that situation considering the 4 Gallons in the tube, along with who knows what else.
Nice job it looks really good one thing I've learned throughout the years of doing this is that that the DeWalt miter saw is about a half a degree off on the 45 . I bought a Delta miter saw with those arms on it like the bosh miter saw and it cuts a true 45°. You can't adjust the DeWalt miter saw there is a way but how I found this out is that for the life of me I could never have my miters fit truly without having to do all this extra work and I was reading some forums and that's how I learned about it.
I have noticed that as well. I offset my saw each time that I 45°, usually. It was a real pain at first, but now it’s second nature. It would be nice if I got a better saw when this one burns out. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@TheJoshBucklew any time my friend. But I have a Delta saw it's like a sliding compound miter saw it has 2 pivot arms and it's extremely accurate it was 550 bucks and it was well worth it. But for me it was worth it because I do this stuff quite often but if you don't do it everyday like the DeWalt saw works well but like in your video you have to make fine adjustments and when I'm on a big job that means a lot of time at the end of the day. So when that one does burn out I'd recommend that Bosch or Delta Milwaukee has made leaps and bounds as well and then did the Walt compound sliding miter saw is also Kick-Ass but it's extremely expensive it's like almost 800-900 I'm with the Walt guy true and true but their quality has been lacking and right now Milwaukee is just crushing it or DeWalt is failing Milwaukee is just succeeding
@@TheJoshBucklew no it was not I just use some saw horses and I have a couple of those adjustable rollers for the longer pieces those work out really well. But I have a really nice blade on that saw too and I'll tell you it cuts like butter when I do trim work and it just so accurate. I can't tell you how many places I've been to that when I see the trim work done I always see that Gap in there it's just nice to see that someone's actually taking the time to make the adjustments and do it right and showing us some tricks how to get it done right because some openings aren't that square and you do have to compensate sometimes like what you're doing. I'm going to my warehouse tomorrow morning I'll get you the model number off my saw so you can see which one I've got and you can check it out do you have a Menards by you cuz that's where I got mine and I know they're only kind of out by my way I live in Chicago.
@@TheJoshBucklewI bet I know what your problem was, computer and that carburetor. Looked like a feedback carburetor mine had that and they have to have EVERY sensor (o2,Temp,TPS,MAP, computer,etc.) hooked up or it won’t run right. Computer did the timing and if there’s no computer it “defaults” to a 10(if I remember right) and will never advance when giving it gas.
@@TheJoshBucklewmy solution get a older carburetor same design and all just no sensors on it and a HEI distributor made for I6. Truck runs amazing now.
How's everything going great video but another video not showing how the actual switch goes on the column how the actual switch is is put on doesn't show where the rod goes what slot hose there's three slot hose doesn't show which position you put in your key when you're putting on the ignition switch does it go on the bottom hole of the ignition switch the middle hole the top hole and what position did you have your key in and you have it in accessory lock forward and thank you very much great video but I really need it help and looking at your actual switch hooked up wiring wise and to see where the rod went you said it went and I have my ignition switch in my hand I see three slots it can go into I don't know which one I put it into. Thank you very much great video. Just has some questions how you replace my ignition switch and the diaphragm not from the switch but it would actually holds the wires together and plugs into the switch that little clip that those two clips on the side broke an actual pieces broke to where the wires go into the switch so I plugged it in and I turned on my key I got no power no lights on the instrument panel I'm stuck I could try to start it with my screwdriver and it'll kick over but I got of course no power to my distributor and then I get no power when I turn on my key no power to the instrument panel so I'm stuck I try to jump it but no power anybody have any answers why I'm not getting any power to my instrument panel and does anybody have any suggestions thank you I just changed my ignition switch I put it on and now I turn the key and I got no power
I believe the rod goes into the middle hole on the ignition switch. You may need an ECM for it for the no power issue. i know that happened on my '95 F-150 at one point. Another thing to check might be to wires around your battery, starter and alternator.. Best of luck to you, feel free to keep questions coming. Thanks again!
I’m not sure what website I ordered them from, but I think I went with the second cheapest option I could find. They were unfinished steel and rusted up in a couple weeks. I’m not sure if they’re comparable with the best manifolds or not.
Try putting your ignition key to accessory when you put the push rod back into the new ignition switch. It may be easier to get the push rod in the switch with the switch partially mounted. I will take your advice into consideration for future videos, thanks for your input!
I see you do have auxiliary position on the ignition cylinder. You must have had your manual transmission in reverse as you installed the new ignition switch. ?
For an automatic transmission the gear should be in neutral when installing the ignition switch. I bought my uncle's f150 and the key would not turn to the auxiliary position. I looked up the procedure in the Haynes book, manual reverse, automatic neutral. The key turns to the auxiliary position now.
It’s been a while, so I am trying to remember everything that happened with that. I do remember that it would start, and then when it turned back to ‘run’, it would shut off. I believe it was poor connection from the ignition switch
Hey i got the same issue with a e350 with a 460. We already replace that part but now the issue is back have you an idea of what eles can be causing this ?
Possibly the ignition module. Should be mounted either by the battery or on the driver’s side, near the brake booster. Also, I had a camshaft sensor out in a car once & that gave me similar issues. Let me know if anything of these things help!
It needs a new distributor to run the carb I just put on it. No sensors, so the wiring doesn’t know what to do. Or it could have a new 1bbl carter yfa reinstalled with ease. I just moved to a different state a couple hours from where it’s parked. I would consider selling it for the right price. Low miles
@@jackdunn7441 I would take $5k on it. New tires. I believe the estimated value for this condition is between $6k & $7k. Do a ‘little’ work to it & you could probably get $10k+. I honestly wouldn’t even consider selling it, but I’ve been out of work for 5 weeks & it’s just sitting 2.5 hours away from me.
@@jackdunn7441 understood completely. I don’t want to see her go if she doesn’t have to. You take care! Might have her running again here soon. If you subscribe, you’ll be one of the first to know when she’s on the road again
Thanks for the review, Jennifer! Looks like I’ve got a carb upgrade coming soon that you may be interested in. Click that subscribe button for an update when that uploads!
