Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom for at least 700 years. Some time the city was independent, but most of the time the City was a vassal state of various Burmese dynasties even right through the reign of King Rama I. When the British began to subjugate Burma and eventually abolished the Burmese King, exiling him to British India during King Rama IV reign, Chiang Mai was independent again but within a few decades, Chiang Mai King saw that Siam was beginning to exert influence to the North, the King decided to submit and even sent his daughter to become King Rama V's concubine. When Chiang Mai king died, King Rama V decided not to appoint a new king but put Chiang Mai directly under Bangkok's rule, sending a governor to govern Chiang Mai since then. Chiang Mai has it all, old town with several important temples, Wat Prathat Doi Suthep on 13 km up hill within 20 km from the city center and at the foot of Doi Suthep, there is Chiang Mai University, one of the four regional public universities in Thailand. The others are Khon Kaen in the Northeast, Burapha in the East (Chonburi) and Songkhla in the South. All four regional universities have all traditional faculties including Medicine and Engineering. There is an going project to propose Chiang Mai's old town as Unesco World Heritage within this decade. There is an annual Walk Up Doi Suthep about 12km trek held by Chiang Mai University to welcome new students. Along the way, there are bins to collect drinking water bottles/garbage manned by senior students. It is estimated about 20,000+ new and old students take part on this annual event held in May every year except during Covid. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QgZ4QW2C1yQ.html Wat Prathat Doi Suthep and practically all temples in the North and in Laos as well have two Nagas (mythical serpent-like beast living underworld) guarding the steps leading into the temple. It is believed that Naga King is the underworld ruler and is a devout Buddhist. Thus, sometimes you can see an image of Buddha meditating under Bodhi tree with Naga King guarding behind with his 7 heads above Buddha's head to protect him from wind/rain. There are also standalone Naga statutes along Meking River on both sides of Thailand and Laos, the most famous of which is at Nakhon Phanom with 7 heads. It might be noted that one of the largest royal barge of Thai King has 7-heads Naga at the front. The mortal enemy of Naga is Garuda (a mythical flying beast) which is supposed to be God Vishnu's mount. Indonesia and Thailand deem Garuda as high class mythical beast and Indonesia's National Carrier is named "Garuda". Garuda is also the official symbol of Thai King, thus official document would have Garuda symbol at its head. When there is an official royal announcement from the King or Palace, the initial TV screen features Garuda for a minute before the royal text appears together with reading announcement.
Traditional Thai costumes seen at Wat Arun are hi-so and usually worn by wives of high officials at former occasions such as Royal Ballroom celebration at Government House or at Official New Year's morning merit making presided by Thai prime minister/wife as well as cabinet ministers/wives. Woman also wears traditional Thai dress during wedding ceremony while Thai man usually wears western suit or white official uniform if being civil servant. Legend states that when King Taksin, at the time Ayutthaya mandarin, led some troops to break the Burmese siege of Ayutthaya and arrived at this old temple at dawn, so the temple was then named Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). After Ayutthaya fell after one-year siege, he led troops from Chanthaburi province to expel the occupied Burmese troops in Ayutthaya. Then he proclaimed himself King and moved the capital from Ayutthaya to Thonburi and built a royal palace adjacent to Wat Arun and this temple then became the Royal Temple within the Palace domain in line with Ayutthaya tradition. The same could be said about King Rama I when he moved the capital from Thonburi across the Chao Phraya River and built Emerald Buddha Temple within the Grand Palace. King Rama III was also known as Merchant Prince because when he was still a prince he conducted trade with China and asked the ship captain to bring back stone sculptures such as Chinese deities, mythical beasts as stabilizing balance in the ship's belly. These stone sculptures are now commonly seen at Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the Grand Palace. When Thonburi was still a distinct province before it was dissolved to form Bangkok metropolis about 50 years ago, Thonburi's symbol was Phra Prang (Stupa) of this temple. Phra Prang is lit at night and can be seen from tour boats or roof-top bars on the opposite side of Chao Phraya River. BTW, I studied Grade 5-7 at a school opposite this wat in 1965-67. The school is on the temple's property as is the case about 70% of the government schools. In those days when Thailand began compulsory primary education, Thai temples had/have a large area, so the government requested temple to donate a parcel of its land to be built as a primary school. In fact, it was a Thai tradition before the government initiated universal education that Thai boys were taught to read/write by temple monks in days gone by. One day after lunch break, I climbed up to the top of this Phra Prang (stupa) and it was a harrowing experience due to the steep steps. The second and third levels were opened to climbers for upto 20 years ago. When it was closed for renovation for about 3 years and then reopened, only the first level is now allowed access due to the popularity of this stupa and the temple fears accident/congestion.
Saved the Best for Last! Thank you for sharing this! Such amazing souls...living in freedom and sanctuary! I've followed ENP ever since you went and have donated often. Did you get to meet Lek Chalert the co-founder? She's such an amazing soul too...truly an angel elephant whisperer. 💞💕💞💕😍😍
