my friend has an R34, and Kinda wants to run it inside the inner fender/chassis. Nobody seems to unplug everything, Perhaps because someone found out it doesn't slide through easy?? (shrugs)
I’m not super familiar with the chassis wiring on the r34 but I’d imagine If it’s like other Nissans running the wire inside the frame would be nearly impossible. as long as it’s pulled up away from the wheel it will be fine and it’s not something anyone will ever see.
I do a lot more than parking in the garage, I’m wrenching almost every day. It’s definitely the cheapest route for a floor coating and it’s held up OK. It’s not very resistant to harsh chemicals such as fuel, brake fluid, brake clean ect.
I would not recommend adding chips as it is no where near the same as epoxy. This is a cheap alternative. It’s been a few years since I applied it and for the most part it has held up ok. Certain chemicals do damage it such as fuel, brake fluid ect. Eventually I will be applying another coat in certain areas that are more effected. It hasn’t been slippery in my experience
The biggest issue I’ve found in the Semi Truck world is that no mater what is used , wire harness’s need to be secure , vibration is the death of wiring , chafed wires are usually the number one cause of an electrical fault. Then you have the small cuts that let moisture in and then the green puss starts growing. I’ve seen wire loom chafe through the small gauge ECM harness. It’s always a battle. These OEMs are cutting corners and the wiring harness show it .
Late reply I know but I know what you mean. The normal electrical tape tends to fall apart and be a sticky mess to work with. For the cars I build I often have to go back in and modify wiring after some time for upgrades and this tape tends to hold up well over time and is much less nasty when its time to unwrap.
Idea that can help. Put a cable tie (zip tie) at each wire junction as you take the old tape off (a good use for the thin cable ties that come with any cheap multi pack, which are useless for almost anything else). This keeps the branches separate while the tape is off. Then just cut these cable ties off as you get to that junction when retaping the loom. Also means if you need to put a replacement wire in you can feed the new wire through the cable ties as you remove the old damaged cable.
It sounds like it’s turning over slowly, could be a sign of low amperage from the battery or poor connection on the power or ground. If the ecu isn’t getting strong voltage it throws off the cold start. Also, if there’s a small vaccum leak I could throw off the maf….. Do you have another starter to try? Did your car stay running a few seconds after you turned it off?
I wonder how long those zip ties on the "heat protection" will last. Think they will be ok? or would it be better to use something like bailing wire, something metal? Not that it matters much now. I am sorry to hear about the Engine, sincerely. bad luck man. I hope having it rebuilt goes well. I wish you luck. Maybe you can use that time to clean up the engine bay and maybe paint it. I'm a stickler for clean and looks lol.
I’m building this car for a friend and he wasn’t interested in painting the bay. The zip ties will hold up fine I have used them for this in the past. Metal ties should be used on exhaust wrap though. Check out my previous videos if you want to see how I would normally do an engine bay when I’m not restricted to what the customer wants.
Be sure to check out my videos for builds and other automotive content, consider subscribing! Thank you! If I reach 600 subs in the next 24 hours I will buy a crimp tool 😂 Thanks for all the comments and replies guys! Thanks to you this has been my best performing short far! I couldn’t have done it without you!
That special tool costs no more than 20 bucks. The problem with soldering is that if something goes wrong (ie a short somewhere in the circuit) it can get hot enough to melt and make a hell of a mess
Nope. That's not how you solder, time to pay attention to everyone telling you it's wrong. That's a cold solder joint. Crimp it, really not difficult, you can get a hammer crimper if you really want to be cheap.
For solder to penetrate the copper you have to get the copper above the solder melt temperature in order for it to correctly flow and bond with the copper. When soldering it on a big lug like this you need tons of heat for a long time as the copper will wick the heat down the wire. Doing it your way, dipping it in molten solder with maybe a short continued burst of heat will form a superficial bond at best as it will solidify on first contact with the copper, which might work, but electrically and mechanically will be pathetic. Just change your method, hammer it to get any half decent crimp then heat the whole thing up and solder it. The insulation will get damaged, but you'll at least have something half decent. Better yet, ditch the solder and just crimp it properly. You are trying to post an educational video, take your own thinking and consider it.
This is a terrible idea and is obviously being suggested by someone who has no idea what wire crimping is all about! This will probably last 1/10th as long and is likely to degrade early its otherwise long projected life. By all means solder the connection AFTER you have crimped it but do not rely on a solder joint in low voltage, high current applications. And certainly do not rely on it for strength. And, if you are going to solder the two, at least tin the wire first. This is why Millennials are going to ruin the world! ;)
This is a common method and it’s even used on aircraft. At the end of the video I pulled on it pretty hard demonstrating the strength. I have ran connections like this for years with no problems at all.
@@240Trevor The fact that you are incapable of being corrected - there are 5 other comments here from people who know better than you saying that this is not recommended and is a BAD idea - makes you the worst kind of idiot. An idiot who is incapable of learning and so stuck in his ego that he doesn't care about the consequences of his actions.
Don't ever do this,, buy a god dam proper crimping tool. 😂... solder gets hot and runs out the lug coupling under high current draw... instant fire... I how many people burned there house or car down with this stupid tip.. 😂
@@240Trevor Not really - you're replacing the direct connection of the connector and wire with solder. Solder has higher resistance. This means for anything where you're working with a low resistance load you're making a hot point. If you crimp and your connector gets hot - you don't really care. It's probably a good enough heatsink anyway with all the wire. If you do this and your connector gets hot - the solder can start softening - making more of a hot point - eventually leading to - at best - the wire and connector separating. Try running 100A+ down that cable for 5 minutes and then do that tug test and you'll see what I mean.
@@UKMonkey Car battery cables see hundreds of amps during operation and sometimes close to a thousand during starting. And still not a single one of my connections have ever failed. I have worked in many performance automotive shops and have connections like this on dozens of vehicles. If your connections are getting hot enough to melt solder then something is wrong with your wiring and the terminals themselves are probably melting as well.
I'm soldering xt60 and xt90 connectors sometimes. It's pretty similar. There are 2 things you can improve. 1. I recommend to tin a wire before putting it inside. If the wire is a bit oxidized or dirty or dusty or oily (it can be that from a factory), it will push out the solder. And the connection will be not proper. 2. The naked part of wire is a bit long. You can measure everything before soldering and cut to a proper size. Ideally, you shouldn't see naked wire after soldering. The insulation will hide in that lip. And it will look nice and it will be sturdy even without a tape. 3. If you can, use powerful electric soldering iron. Fire can damage insulation and make it brital. They're rare now (because of electronics is miniature now), but you can find used for a very good price.
Electronics engineer here... it should be crimped for stress relief purposes. This situation offers no SR. It looks like its soldered ok, but theres no visual way to tell if its a cold joint in there, and what will happen under load.
This is a common method and it’s even used on aircraft. At the end of the video I pulled on it pretty hard demonstrating the strength. I have ran connections like this for years with no problems at all.
@@240Trevor I did watch it again same results. I have been doing these kind of things for decades. Simply buy a $60 hydraulic crimping tool and crimp them to begin with and then solder them. Then you have a physical bond and electrical bond. If your eyelid does not have a hole in the front, you can drill a small hole, so you can also fill it with solder from that in after crimping but do not drill it large enough to compromise the physical strength of the eyelet. I once did mine the same way the video shows until someone taught me the correct way. Furthermore, the tugging of cable had very little force behind it. Guess it looks good for Video. lol but don’t take my opinion. Research the Internet so you know the proper way before you try to teach somebody something.
@@larrypugh9662 Trust me there is plenty of force on the cable when I tug it. All I know is it’s proven and reliable for me. If it works it works. Sure I could go above and beyond but I’m not planning on lifting cars with this wire, it’s not an elevator cable.
That is not, even remotely, safe. You aren’t going to have as good a connection as a crimp which is going to cause the connection to heat up, and even if you don’t reach the melting point of the solder it will fail eventually. The tool isn’t that expensive
@@240Trevorunfortunately that's not how a resin core Works. When you melt it like that you burn off all the flux and are left with a dry solder. This will not properly stick or penetrate to the interior of your wire. I would suggest tinning you're wire first but I think it will severely melt your wire jacket with heavy gauge
I’m definitely subscribing to see the rest of this build! Your craftsmanship is beautiful, and I was surprised you didn’t think your welds were that nice. Looked better than GREDDY! keep it up man!
I appreciate that man. I’m still really new to TIG and this was my first piece that’s actually going on a customer car. I suppose I felt comfortable going for it because Greddy kinda dropped the ball. Thanks for the sub, it really helps!
Split loom actually protects the wire from heat damage by providing an air gap between the wire and the split loom. Something to think about for those high heat areas. Tessa tape provides good friction and abrasion resistance but doesn't insulate
