My name is Paul Schaaf. I am a jewelry craftsman. This page will showcase some of my work, but most importantly, I will be sharing my favorite tips, tricks, methods, tools, and anything else related to the craft of making fine jewelry that I have learned throughout my awesome career journey. If you have topics you would like me to explore, please don't hesitate to reach out with content suggestions.
Hello, after you modified the beading tool what are you using to make the bead? I hear something electrical powering it in the background is it a foredom drill?
Hey Paul, nice work. I really like the use and modification of an old handpiece to hold the setting.i might have to borrow that one. I do mine with pitch, a bur for seats and file for the prongs, then pliers and hammer and punch to work the prong down. Great tip on the orientation of the stone facets. Keep up the good work. Austin
Hi Megan. Sorry for the delayed reply. Here's a link. I use the 0.7mm thick (4-2-0.7mm) - www.ottofrei.com/products/glardon-vallorbe-joint-round-edge-precision-files-lp1170-lp1171?variant=43578861715670
What machine are you using to impact the tool? Is it a standard pneumatic jeweler engraver machine? Is there a cheaper way to do this without doing it 100% manually?
I use a grs gravermax. Unfortunately, with that type of tool, there aren't really any worthwhile options that are inexpensive. I was hopeful about the new smartpro machine, but I just tried it at the Tucson show, and while it works, the power is fairly modest, and starts to drop significantly as you speed up the stroke rate. I think many would soon want to upgrade after getting a taste of that type of tool. You can always just use a traditional milgrain wheel and then use a modified beading tool to touch up the tight spots by hand.
Very interesting info to know. I do love tourmalines but I’m still learning prong setting - I set in bezels only now. I’m finding your videos extremely informative. Thank you very much. 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
Wow, what a PERFECT and gorgeous ring and settings. You’re a true artist and a perfectionist too. Can I ask, where are you located? Just curious. Keep on doing what you’re doing … we ALL appreciate you, Paul. Thanks as always. 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
Great precise information here - thanks so much. Could I use the palladium white gold ear posts and ear nuts for sterling silver too? I apologize if this is a stupid question but as a woman who always wears earrings (usually only hoops though 🤭, but when I wear post earrings…), I want the best ear but to stay on. So what day you Paul? 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
I love the mineral oil tip - that’s the best and this tip should be spread around to all jewelers because we all go through a polishing stage, or 2, or 3, etc. 😊, and mainly for health reasons. That is a very big tip for that reason alone, let alone the fact that you’re not throwing dust all over your bench. You rock! Thanks again. 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
18KPdW ear nuts are expensive. If you know you don't have a nickel sensitivity, I would use standard 14KW..... Or even 14KY... No one really sees them anyway.
Wow, no comments here. Well, here’s one … I’d like to thank you so much for your tip about this really great file. Had never heard of it. I’m a beginner in learning about stone setting so I find your videos, especially your helpful info about tools and modified tools you use. Thanks so much for sharing this as well as tips and methods as well. (I’m embarrassed to say that I still need to go see what thrumming is. 😬🫤🥹)
Such an informative video. You explain EVERYTHING ado clearly and completely. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Please keep the videos coming. I can learn so much in the way you show the how and why too. 👍🏼. 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
Hi Annie. Yes, I like the 5" best. I have two pair. One pair I half rounded the bottom jaw so I can grab inside the finger hole of a ring without marking it badly.
I wish that you would sell some of your modified tools - simply wow! It seems that you thought of every step and what exactly you need. So we’ll thought out. Thanks so much for sharing everything in this video, and showing all your tips, tricks and tools. So nice of you. You make a very good teacher too. 👩🏼🎨🌵🔨
For a second I just thought that this is just like my modified pin vise. Then you used the groove and I practically swooned. One thing that has helped me is lining the setting with sharpie, getting the stone level and giving it a bit of a push. It gives you a clear line where to start and helps avoid a tilted stone. "Helps"
I use that sharpie trick for a lot of stuff. I wish I had thought to include it in the video. I've done so many martini settings I just eyeballed it out of habit.
I have a question about the modification of the beading tool. When you file the two edges flat, are you removing the all of the curve from the bead circle? So, you are left with ( )...to partial curves? Is there still the indent on the removed side that you are lining up for each impression? I hope this question makes sense. I couldn't quite see the finished tip on the video. I guess I am asking is do you completely remove the the partial curve, or are you just lowering it? thank you.
Yes, that is correct. you are removing part of the tip of the tool so essentially what you end up with looks like ( ). Two flat sides with a parenthesis at each end is the best I can explain it.
I use a little fine diamond disc in my flexshaft/micromotor. You could use a sanding disc or the side of a separating disc. You can't really file it because beading tools are hardened and it'll bugger up your file unless you take the hardness out first.
