Hola Jorge! Unas cuerdas con mayor grosor van a aumentar el nivel de respuesta en graves así como en volumen. También es interesante probar diferentes materiales de las cuerdas para lograr un sonido más o menos acentuado. Por cierto, de fábrica vienen con 12s. ;)
@@DylanHernandezRamirez pienso que es sólo x el logo de Slash, xq los materiales casi son los mismos, cambia el clavijero y no usa hueso arriba, por lo demás es la misma configuración de abeto y caoba solida
@@DylanHernandezRamirez si no tienes para una Gibson J45 es la mejor opción, he visto vaaarios videos en comparativa con la J45 de Gibson y Epiphone y cambia ligeramente el sonido pero muchos dicen que se le parece mucho, también debes saber que la caoba le da un tono mas oscuro a la guitarra, si es ru estilo pues dale con todo, aunque creo que el modelo Slash me gusta más x los clavijeros y el logo de Slash claro
The comparison of these 2 guitars is great, since the Epiphone is almost identical with other nuances than the Gibson. I have the Epiphone and I love the sound. BUT the bad thing that happened to me is that I put Dunlop 65 BodyGloss - CREAM OF CARNAUVA in the part of the black headstock where the Epiphone logo is and big was my surprise that it removed the matte finish it had, that opaque finish that gives it its aged touch and I was very surprised and disappointed, as it is not something that should happen in a guitar of that price, which although cheaper than the Gibson is still a high mid-range. Has anyone who has the same guitar has happened, can anyone let me know of any solution? Because I really think I'm going to have to run the dunlop 65 all over the headstock to even it out. Another thing I've noticed with almost a year of having it is that the frets, metal bars have been wearing a little fast and that I do not play it always or in many hours. Oh and I remember that with a bit of saliva and with my finger I went over the blade where the logo is and I also removed the matte gloss that it has.
Not convinced they're still made in Japan. I have the exact guitar in lefty....2010 model. Nice but likely made in Korea these days.... Esto es la verdad...si?
As far as I know there are no dealers of either Gibson or Epiphone acoustic guitars left in this entire state. The reasons for that will go unspoken. So, for most of us interested guitar players that leaves internet dealers. Gibsons are very expensive, and widely thought of as having QC issues. But most big dealers do have a 30 day return policy.
I was looking into getting the epi slash j45 and basically wondered if I’m willing to save $900 for that who’s to say I can’t save up for the real deal? And I have to say after playing a real Gibson j45 at guitar center just to walk out with a $5 pack of strings, it was probably the most beautiful sound I had heard from an acoustic. Some will argue that it’s a rip off but way more time and care goes into the craftsmanship of the Gibson acoustics. So with that in mind I’m currently socking away for the Gibson and I think it’ll be worth it. I’m sure the epiphone is great either way but I’d want the real one.
Muy buenos los comentarios respeto a los problemas que se pueden encontrar al adquirir cuerdas; solo tengo una objeción a lo que dices con respecto a que es imposible saber si las cuerdas son falsas o no. Yo no compro cuerdas por internet. Las compro a un vendedor que le distribuye un Importador de cuerdas para los Conservatorios de música. Hace poco, me entregó dos juegos de cuerdas Hannabach 728 MT. Cuando abrí el primer sobre, me llamó la atención que las cuerdas estaban con manchas, como de cuando se va gastando el entorchado de cuarta, quinta y sexta con el roce en los trastes del diapasón . Como en el sobre, traen estampado el diámetro nominal de cada cuerda, me di el trabajo de medirlo con un piedemetro, pues no tenia un micrómetro a la mano. Pero, la diferencia no es tanto al medir con uno u otro instrumento; el resultado fué notoriamente sorprendente, debido a que las medidas de cada cuerda, diferían en varias fracciones de mm, con respecto a las medidas impresas en el sobre. Además, los agudos de carbono, vienen marcados con un extremo azul y éstas cuerdas no traían eso. Reclamé al vendedor éste, al Importador. Se llevaron las cuerdas para hacer un peritaje y me trajeron otros juegos que al abrirlo venían en excelentes condiciones y al medirlas, coincidían con las medidas del sobre. Esto, me da una idea de cómo demostrar y comprobar que eran falsas. Gracias por permitirme opinar .
I own the Taylor 224CE-K DLX. Recently sat in a room and demo’ed about 20 guitars. Martin OM28 is what I’ve had my sights on for a while. Tried Santa Cruz, Martin, Taylor, Collings, Boucher, Fuchs, etc. All wonderful. The Martin M-36 was especially nice @ $3300 & sounded much nicer then the OM-28. Can’t say the $6500 guitars were better than that M-36 (I never knew Martin even had “M” line of guitars). That being said, came home to play my Taylor Koa and felt it is one hell of a guitar. The playability, tone, etc make the 224CE-K all punch way above its price point. Also, the newly released Mexican-made Martin SC-13E was impressive at a similar price point to the 224CE. I was sorta hoping my Taylor would be much worse than the OM-28 so I could justify paying $3K + for a “better guitar”… but I really can’t say it is - it’s not an old dread which is gonna blow you away with volume and resonance but it’s damn good for what it is and I’d highly recommend the Taylor 224… especially the Koa model.
I have the Special Edition, they are definitely something else. When I see people say $1600-1700 is way too much for a 200 series (not all solid) I know they've never touched let alone seen a 224ce-K DLX. Also, people misinterpret layered, figured, laminated wood and put them all in one category but that's another story... A Taylor is a Taylor and these 224 Koa models are a joy in every way.
