This video shouldn’t be titled this way. This is nothing at all related to e-bike wiring basics. It’s just you explaining different connectors. E-bike wiring would be something like connecting the battery cradle to the controller. Just showing the possible difference in connectors available isn’t the same.
You can use the info here to connect controller to cradle easily, whether that means splicing them together or putting connectors on either side. Depending on the gauge it could be as simple as using the solder sleeves demonstrated.
I am a proponent of a twisted mechanical connection. Even if the solder does not pentrate throughout the wire, it will hold the mechanical connection tight, which will provide reliable electrical transmiddion.
I’m trying to figure out how to charge my 48v battery without regular charger I have a 24v universal charger but when I connect it it won’t start charging what do I do
So many unanswered questions for me. What voltage do i set the charger at? What is a soft pack? What is a hard case? Is this method for when you over discharge the battery and you have to get the BMS to work? (i.e. a "jumpstart")
The charger should already be configured for whatever nominal voltage your battery uses. So if it's say a 48v battery you should be using a 48v charger. You do not 'set' the charger at a particular voltage because most chargers don't have variable voltage output like that. If yours does you have to look at an output chart, 48v nominal would be 54.6v A soft pack is a battery that is just wrapped in shrink wrap. A hardcase is a battery that is enclosed in a hard plastic shell. This method is usually for when you have accidentally shorted out the battery and caused the BMS to shut down as part of fault protection. Usually if you have drained the battery to the point that it is completely dead, all you need to do is plug it back in and start charging it again, you would not usually need to jump start in that instance
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy Thanks. I thought you needed a universal charger with a slightly higher voltage for some reason. I guess I need to hook wires up from my charger and charge the "discharge" on the battery as you stated. I did hook up a good ebike battery that i have to the discharge of the bad battery (in parallel) and that did charge it, but it did not wake up the BMS unfortunately. My battery is a hardcase based on your description (Genze ebike) thanks again.
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy Unfortunately I think i let the battery discharge too much and now the charger will not charge it (the normal way). I have two ebike batteries and two chargers and i just cannot get the discharged battery to charge again.
@@jamescabaniss5857 You may want to consider reaching out to the seller or manufacturer, they probably have more intimate knowledge of the workings of this bms to help troubleshoot.
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy Thanks, unfortunately Genze ebikes have gone out of business. I think I can use a 12 AWG butt connectors to connect to the charger's three prong smooth outputs, put a wire into the other side of the butt connector, then i can easily attach that to the battery output like you suggested. All this will be done outside just to be safe, lol. My other thought is there must be a ebike shop that does this for bikers.
You don't actually need the display though right? I am thinking of getting a bbs02, as far as I can tell as long as you have the program lead you can do all your set up in that on the app or laptop, then the controller buttons still work as normal?? Or separate question, even just use your phone as the display instead?
Yes you can program it with the cable, and yes you will have full throttle access like that. But you would not have pas or the ability to change pas levels. The controller does not have buttons, the controller is just a circuitboard. If you mean the display, if the display is not plugged in neither is the buttons. If you want no display there are better options than the program cable. Just get an eggrider and use the Bluetooth app on your phone. Sounds like that's exactly what you are looking for.
Thank you! Such an easy and safe way to troubleshoot. I was worried about bending pins with a jumper. Here's hoping my problem is the display and I don't have to buy a new battery or motor x_x
Yes, you can. Ideally you would clean it out with some nonconductive contact cleaner and a q tip first or there will be some debris inside, but as can be seen in the video as long as you can get the plug pushed past the point of that resistor it will make a full connection. So unless the melted resistor is so melted that you cannot fully insert the connector, you could in theory continue to use it; you just would no longer have antispark. Hope that helps!
My p860c display just stopped working. The graphics freeze, and you will see horizontal lines, then turning black. No corrosion on the connectors. Motor and throttle still works, dont know if its the display or cables. I think the display. Maybe water came in? It worked for 18 months.
Ok thank you for you quick answer! Will it be water damage? Or something? It just started, never had any problem with the display. Sometimes you will have to drive in the rain, it should resist that, of you ask me. Are the display not potted with a sealing. Maybe I can open it up, watch the pcb. I'll buy a new spare display then. When I've solved the issue, ofcourse I will share this.
@@rverdonk it could be water damage, or physical impact, thermal cycling causing a break in something on the circuitboard, a defect, or damage on the harness. Would definitely start with replacing that component though
It's a bafang program cable. You could in theory use a jumper though between the correct pins in a pinch, but they are so small that you run risk of shorting it out like that
I watched this because I was looking for tricky ways to attach my ebike battery to an inverter without taking the battery apart. I’d need an adapter to go from the slots in the battery to the input stems on the inverter. This vid and your comments were very interesting. Any ideas on my issue? Thanks
I think the most straightforward approach would be to just get a second mount that matches that particular style of hardcase battery. If it's a kit battery like hailong (shark) there are sources for that kind of thing but you would have to inspect the battery as there have been many variations
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy it’s a good idea but the mount itself doesn’t have any electrical connection. It holds the battery in place so the prongs go into the grooves mounted in the frame.
@@butchie2752 Sounds like you don't have a kit battery then. If it is a frame battery for a factory made ebike you would probably have to fabricate a mount that you can add matching connectors to.
Interesting video. I spent most of the afternoon trying something similar. I had a brainwave of using the sprockets that I didn't want at the back as spacers. It didnt work. I didn't hear you mentioning the B screw on the derailleur but I figured this was my problem because there wasnt enough space for the chain to glide clear of the largest sprocket which was now moved to the middle of the cassette; it was too close to the upper jockey wheel. Tried as I might it just wasn't working. After admitting defeat I put everything back as it was to at least get me to work and back tomorrow, the only difference was a new chain. I've just taken the bike around the block to see how she's riding and I don't know what's happened but it's working fine. I have the full spectrum of sprockets, the chain line is good and it's shifting perfectly. I don't see how it would make this much improvement but I have to put it down to the new chain. It's a 9 speed microshift derailleur and the bottom bracket is 73mm. I'm baffled 🤔
It's a straightforward video, if you didn't learn anything from it then I don't think you should be messing with the battery at all. Take it to a professional.
I set up a password on my 850c and I wrote it down went next day to use it and it didn’t recognize it. Tried many various numbers close to it. Can someone please help me to by pass it or if I get a new dpc would it require the same password?
If it is refusing to take a charge, there's probably a good reason. Which could be an internal short or something wrong with the BMS etc. I would test the cell banks and see if they are out of balance which would indicate some sort of short, if the cells are balanced you could replace the BMS which might fix it. But honestly, if you're asking how to fix your e-bike battery in a RU-vid comment, you should probably just replace the battery
Quick question. I have 2 batteries in parallel with a “y” connector. Both batteries have their own power buttons. I used 1 at a time. When doing this method is the battery trying to charge the battery that is off?
Possibly. Do you have a multimeter? If so, you should turn one of the batteries off, unplug it from the other battery, and check the voltage coming off of the discharge plug. When the battery is off. Off. That voltage might be zero, or it might be some number that is higher than zero but far less than the normal voltage like 18 volts or whatever. If it is putting out any voltage at all at discharge when the battery is turned off, then yes there would be power going through that parallel adapter back into the discharge port on the other battery that is in parallel. Really depends on what you mean by a power button, if it's like a physical switch that is opening the circuit, then you probably wouldn't have to worry about it, but if it is a button that is controlled by the BMS, those don't always completely turn it off because it's just like circuitry and not really physically opening that circuit
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy funny because i did that earlier right after i checked and their was voltage coming through to the mounting pins for the second battery while the other one was turned on
@@RealRayAl I'm not entirely sure I understand what you are describing with regards to how you tested it, but it should be fairly straightforward. Just completely disconnect the battery from any adapters or other batteries or chargers etc. Then put that switch into the off position and measure the battery voltage at discharge. If you see any number besides zero, it is sending that through the parallel adapter
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy im not home but let me clarify. 1 battery was powered on while the other battery was off of the bike. I checked to see if any voltage is going to the battery rack which you use to mount a battery too (battery was off bike) so the battery sends its power through that mounting rack and then through the xt60 connector and it said 54 volts on the multimeter.
If you mean the speed limit is not working, you probably need to change the configuration settings in your controller. In config there is an option for speed limit defined by either the controller or the display. Select defined by display in config and hit write to update controller.
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy Thanks. Yea, I have a 10 spped Talon 1. I could not find this one in 10 speed that comes apart with one bolt. I am building a BBSHD right now, but do not want ten friggin gears! From what i've learned, if you got a 10 gear system, you basically have to swap out the cassette, the derailuer, and the shifter. pain in the azz.
imagine the charger is my controller of my bbshd, when i plug my battery in it sparks, how can i make an on/off switch like my shark battery and triangle battery have?
Hi there. It sparks because there is a series of capacitors within the controller and you are allowing an unconstrained amount of current to flow into those capacitors. Because capacitors can take so much current, it causes that spark. If you want to put in a switch you can, on either of the discharge wires. The kind of switch you want is called SPST, that stands for single pole single throw. You just wire that switch in line with either one of those wires and flip it before plugging it in, then flip it back after it is plugged in. No more spark
@@GuntherSnaps The switch should be made to handle fairly high voltage/current, not always the easiest to find but they are out there. Some ebike manufacturers like sur-ron use a breaker since those are built pretty beefy. Or for an entirely different approach you could try an xt90 loop key. electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-anti-spark-xt-90s-loop-key/204
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy - I just found the polarity of my ebike by opening its control panel and measuring its GND anv V+ connections to the contacts in the empty battery compartment.
You have to have a smooth transition from each cog size. If one of the cogs is too large then yeah it will hit that large cog and not allow it to go on.
@@fuzzyfriendlydoggy What happens, is that in your video, you talk about a program cable, is it just a cable? My problem is that I don't have a display and I have the same motor and the same cable as your bike, but I don't have the cable of program 👉👈
@@albersonik if you have a bbshd or bbs02 with no display you should probably just get a display. The program cable is a special cable sold separately, you can find it at lunacycle.com
@fuzzyfriendlydoggy i did find it on Aliexpress but the were multiple options ranching from 10 till 300 ohms . Thank you for your quick response and have a merry Christmas and a happy new year. 😊
I’d really like to try this with the S.Archer 3 speed cassette free hub or what ever you call it. Start with an 12 to 28 8 speed steel cassette and use 4 maybe 5 cogs. Or even 3 cogs and still have a 9 speed. I’m currently using a S.Archer 3 speed IGH. I like it a lot. I go over hill and dale in the dirt in 2nd gear mostly. With all the power and torque from the BBSH you just don’t need all those gears. I started out with a SRAM 991 cassette at about half life for a pedal bike. 5th gear was the last cog to go and rode it like a single speed for the last few days and had no real trouble. And I believe an 8 speed chain is a bit tougher than the 9. While the IGH is still in good nic, I’m going to a 1/8 cog and KMC Kool single speed chain.
