Hello, everyone. I am in the process of immigration to Selkirk Manitoba. I am very much interested in enrolling myself in this programme as I am an avid kitchen gardener. It's my way of connecting with nature, giving my very best back to nature and relaxing.
If your plants have started to show signs of new growth, it is best to let them grow and bloom and once the blooms are finished, you could divide them at that time. Unfortunately, that is often when hot weather starts and that can stress the plants. You could move them in April, but you may lose this years blooms and those rhizomes would not develop. Plant about three rhizomes together to have better success if transplanting in April. Thank you for watching and we appreciate questions.
Im a medical scientist keen on holistic wellness, i want to move to Manitoba but i am worried about the weather especially for herbs i plant in Africa if it will be possible to have a herbs and vegetables garden and availability of fruits like soursop and other exotic fruits
If you have the Red Lily Beetle on your lilies the adult stage can be in the soil anywhere near where your lilies are. Dividing and digging will disturb them and you will get some or most of them. However, you should be vigilant come spring and disturb the soil in and around where you have replanted the lilies and if you have planted in a different spot, check the previous spot. If you see any adult red beetles, capture and squash them before they have a chance to lay eggs. Once your lilies are up several inches, check the undersides of the leaves for any egg clusters and remove those. If you go to the MMGA website, www.mgmanitoba.com click on Resources and look under Pests and Diseases for a thorough description for dealing with this pest.
I have 2 queries re protecting Hybrid T Roses in zone 3. First, can I use regular straw? Secondly, what if I planted the rose bush such that the T graft is 8 to 10 inches below the surface of the soil and then after the ground freezes, I applied a rose collar and filled it with about 6 to 8 inches of a mixture of soil & straw? I would be interested in our expert thoughts. If this works, I am planning to grow floribunda & polyantha roses the same way. Thanks
Can Hybrid T roses actually be grown in zone 3? I live in zone 3 in rural Manitoba, having moved from Toronto, Ontario, grow zone 5, where I grew only Hybrid T roses. In Toronto, the T Roses bloomed all summer non stop.I attempted to grow T Roses in Manitoba without success. I now grow only Morden Roses which were developed for the Prairies. Unfortunately, Morden Roses simply do not compare to the Hybrid T Roses for beauty; additionally, they only flower once in the early summer and no further blooms. I've tried using rose collars, mounding them, nothing worked. I finally gave up growing T Roses in Manitoba. Don't waste your money on them. They will not survive the harsh prairies winters.
Thank you for watching our How-to video! Hybrid tea roses in Manitoba are usually treated as annuals, although many rose growers have had them in their gardens for a number of years and including David Austin roses. But they do require winter covering with flax straw/oak leaves along with an initial mounding of new soil around the base. Starting in early August do not fertilize them anymore and in late August do not remove the spent flowers. This will initiate preparing them for winter preparation. There are many new varieties of roses being developed for our winters, for example the 49th Parallel Collection. Enjoy your roses!
Thank you for watching the How-to-videos about dividing and planting Iris. We really appreciate comments that let us know that our videos are informative and helpful.
I found this a bit out of season, but yes it’s very helpful! I need to find some flax straw :) . I’m in Alberta , also zone 3. I have a Lambert Closse tea-like rose. It’s beautiful, but it’s zone 4. It survived last year but didn’t bloom. Think it needs a bit more winterizing TLC.
Why don't you plant them at angles to each other? Planting then all facing the same direction you get one flush and it's over. If you plant them at angles it delays their bloom as they heat up at different times and the bloom is spread out over a longer period of time. Also, why make the little mounds? Why not just plant them straight into the soil?
Good Citizen, Thank you for your comments regarding the Manitoba Master Gardener Association video "How to transplant Iris - Part 2". About plnating the rhizomes at an angle to get a longer bloom time. I have not tried that and in my research and discussions with other Iris gardeners in my area did not have that method discussed. I found that the clumps would spread out and usually provided several weeks of blooms depending on the type of weather that was experienced. Hot weather usually reduced the bloom period.
@@manitobamastergardenerassoc That's really very interesting. We are finding the exact opposite in the southern regions. Our clumps are bunching and have a short blooming period if they are all facing the same direction and our flowers will barely set if they aren't sun baked. Thank you for the reply. And, to be clear, these are the bearded.
"...they don't like to sit in a wet location..." Miss Lady, With all due respect it seems you are out of your depth. These glorious plants grow very well even in more than a foot of water. I have ranged the swamps of north America for 30+ years and have seen these gorgeous flowering plants growing in every single swamp I have explored. Not seasonal flood areas, but true and permanent swamps.
Regarding Iris growing in wet swamp conditions. Our video is specific to Iris germanica or Bearded Iris which do not like wet conditions and will easily develop root rot if planted in wet conditions. The Iris that you have seen out in the wild growing in swamp areas are most likely the Iris versicolour or Northern Blue Flag Iris which are a native plant. There are also other species that grow in the wild in southern regions. These Iris have a fibrous root system that allows them to grow in these wet conditions. They are beautiful plants, but not readily available for domestic gardens. Iris sibirica or Siberian Iris is readily available and used by many gardeners in wetter locations in their gardens.
@@manitobamastergardenerassoc My apologies. It appears that I am the one out of depth! I didn't realize it was bearded specific. Deepest regrets. Truly. I would have been talking about blue flags, Hexagonae and the like.
Thank you for watching! Ideally after frost has come to your garden and the leaves show the effects. I have cut this one in the video as we close our lake property before frost hits the plants.
You should try (cosmos,mixed with dill) , and autumn joy! Throw in a sunflower or two! . For hummingbirds, plant climbing beans, and morning glories! collect your seeds for the following year.. i used stucco wire and metal posts for the climbers. Watch your yard come alive. Have you ever tried moss gardening?
Without insects, we do not have pollinators, without pollinators, there is No photosynthesis. We have 20 years to turn this around as the pollinator population is in decline. How do you feel about Moss gardens? Its a new interest and experiment. Wish we could challenge cities to encourage moss lawns where possible. We wouldnt need to spray or have a carbon tax,lol
If you go along with a garden edger on each side of that lily of the valley, you will be able to easily lift it out, root and all. 😊 it made my weeding, way easier!
One experiment im trying this year is a moss garden, in my driveway. I read a moss garden can replace 275 trees, now imagine that being a new trend in our cities how much we could i prove the environment. That moss now attracts dragonflies, lightening bugs that will eat your mosquitos, and we wouldnt need to spray and kill birds and i sects, as we would support the nature that would take care of our pest problems. We need to change how we see things.
I found goldenrod this year and its amazing! Its scent is beautiful! I have changed the way i do gardening as well, including the way i clean up, so i cut plants off a few inches above ground leaving root in ground, to keep soil loose and it will rot to improve soil. Next year, plant inbetween, No till. Just take a garden edger to get in beside the weed, so you can easily pull it out once you loosen the soil. No dig, no till, so less disturbance to the soil and organisms. I threw a few log piles here and there, as well as a small standing pond, and ive noticed dragon flies this year as well as a few monarchs, so i know i am making headway. I planted sunflowers which will all stay intact over winter. I had aphids last year, but this year the hover flies moved in to help look after those, and i did notice the odd bird co ing in to eat the aphids as well, so we just have to be patient, but its worth the waiting, watching and learning. I grow a vegetable garden, so this year i planted cosmos in the garden, wether its the deep root, or shade that benefited the garden, the garden produce was good, large and really tasty! So i can actually taste the difference as well. You also do t have to weed as much, as there isnt as much bare soil, so added bonus. Im going to experiment with a weed patch in the back and plant legumes, sunflowers and cosmos and see if i can fix that soil abit to make it less weed prone. Happy gardening everyone, and hope you enjoy the pollinator activity in the yard. Oh, last but not least, i have not yet experienced an aggressive bee or wasp this year, which is unusual, but they have so much to eat, they dont have to be.
Thank you for contacting MMGA with your question about lilies. There are different types of lilies so not knowing which type you have, I will provide a general answer to your questions. If the lilies have been in a pot for five years and aren't blooming, they are probably crowded and need to be divided. Also the soil in the pot is probably depleted of nutrients and needs to be replaced. The best time to divide lilies is once the foliage has started to dry which means the bulbs are going into a dormant stage. I advise that you empty the pot (unless it is very large) in which case dig out the lily clump and most of the surrounding soil. Separate the bulbs and save the ones that are strong, firm and healthy looking, no soft spots or rotting roots. Remove the stems as shown on the video. There will probably be a lot of small bulbs and some attached to the sides of the stems. If these are healthy you can save them, but they will need more time to develop into productive bulbs that will bloom. Discard any bulbs that look unhealthy. If you intend to repot in the same pot, be sure to give it a good cleaning and refill with a potting mix that is for containers, but add some compost to provide added nutrients. Add some bone meal or root type fertilizer and replant the bulbs, allowing space ( at least three bulb widths ) between bulbs. Water to settle the soil. If you have a cold season, you should protect the pot from low freezing temperatures until warmer weather begins and the bulbs send up new growth. If you plan to store the bulbs for any length of time, you need to make sure that you remove the stems and all the soil. Allow the bulbs to dry thoroughly in a cool dry place. Check to make sure they are all healthy and then they can be stored in a paper lined container, in a cool dry place. There are some sources that advise putting the bulbs in peat moss into plastic bags and storing in the refrigerator. This is fine for a short period of time, but there is the risk of too much moisture forming and the bulbs rotting, so you would have to check them periodically.
@@manitobamastergardenerassoc thank you so much i might deal with it in the fall was also thinking of tranplanting into the ground it would be a shame to jus through them out thanks again
