I don't know if something like this exists but I've been thinking that they should try active tensioning of the heel forwards, meaning a strap (or two) running from the heel towards the top of the foot. In my mind that could reduce some of the need for too aggressive downsizing because it could be easier to achieve a good fit on the back half of the foot. Maybe it's a stupid idea and manufacturers have tried it already but to me it seems clever 🤷♂️
3:24 - wow, 5 belay loops! 😂 that’s a lot of ropes to manage 😝 3:31 - But only one gear loop so all your pieces are hitting you in the groin - well, at least it’s dynema, so it can hold plenty of gear. (joking, obviously - we all brain-fart sometimes)
The rope is secured only by your hand's grip? With a long tail to build energy before catching on the rest of rope on your body. You can curl Mr. Peter? hmmm
edelrid needs to do dyneema belts on every harness, or at least the lightweight ones. it's so much easier to slide the buckle, an underrated feature of the Ace. looking for a new harness, and nobody ever mentions it...
Please help! Drago LV fits my feet perfectly but I want a second pair that gives more support on small footholds. I was happily wearing Insincts for over a year but they caused a medical condition on my big toes, twisting the distal segments towards the foot center. With the Drago LV, the big toes can be more straight (because of higher asymmetry) and I have no pain. Can you recommend a shoe to try? Thanks!
If it's something asymmetric you're after then the Boostic might be an option, but they're quite a different fit to the Drago LV and are much wider/higher volume. That said, it might be worth trying. Your best bet would be to go into a climbing shop and try on as many pairs as you can and see which feels/fits the best.
From the feedback we've seen it sounds like it handles quite differently, maybe more like a NEOX than a GRIGRI (either standard, or plus). That said, we'll refrain from further comment until we've tried one out.
@@daanschone1548 Ok, the feedback we've had is that it feeds out slack similarly well, but as per my previous comment - we'll refrain from further comment until we've actually tried one out. At the moment we're just going on the opinions of others and we'd prefer to comment from first hand experience.
1:42 I've never seen a Grigri selling for £115, even from small retailers - it pretty much always been retailing for £60-70. I think you were referring to the Neox which is £110?
Having just delved a bit deeper I can see what we did here. We Googled the RRP's of each of the various models, but quoted the GRIGRI+'s price - which is indeed £115. Standard GRIGRI is £90 and NEOX is £125. That said, the performance of the Pinch sounds closer to the GRIGRI+ and NEOX, so we'd still argue it presented a good deal in terms of its specs.
Stay away from Julbo. I have the Vermont classic. The arms broke within weeks and MULTIPLE emails and absolutely no response. Their customer service is non existent
I just replied to another comment about this. I think Tim had potentially had a few too many coffees when he did this. In addition to that, when the camera turns on its amazing the things that you say - I’ve come out with all sorts over the years, things I’d never usually get wrong I consistently get wrong whilst being filmed 🤦♂️🤣
@@ukclimbingofficial understandable 🙃5 belay loops, you'd be the most popular person at the crag😂 I have struggled to find a harness with enough gear loops in the past so nice to see.
Oopsie, think Tim may have had a little too much coffee when he did that one. Jokes aside, there is a harness that already exists that does (almost) that - the Metolius SafeTech Harness had rated gear loops, so you could belay/anchor off them. That said, don’t do it with that Ocun harness - those are definitely just gear loops!!
I will say, having gotten to use a pinch, I am not as enthused. First, the feed method being more tube style is not exactly as positive because you intend to keep hands away from the device which means if the device ever applies resistance you are not in a position to override this. There isn't a great way to override the pinch, either. The common position from grigri use, index finger beneath a flange atop the side plate and thumb pinching the top of the body, places the index knuckle directly against the button... which opens when pressed upward. Why isn't there a second stage to this? Why is the button action on the top? Why is this on the right side? As a left handed belayer, this last part in particular baffles me because even just mirroring the device would've made me never notice that I can, while trying, attempt to feed slack while touching the device and open the side plate. It still is not likely to come open as the plate will likely catch rather than freely swing... but what a minor claimed advantage for the introduction of something catastrophic to the system. Also, long term tests with dirt getting in? Potential issues in ice climbing? I would hate for the button to not click down well enough or even just not be able to open it up. Like, I like Edelrid. Bulletproofs carabiners are amazing, the TC series of ropes are my favorite, and they've helped make Red Chili a serious climbing shoe brand (though I don't climb with them), plus helmets and harnesses seem to have some great features and feels to them. Belay devices... I think the MegaJul was neat but had problems which the GigaJul tried to correct by taking away the weight, size, and ease of the MegaJul. I won't belay with a pinch, mostly because camming devices are awkward for left handers, but I won't allow someone to belay me direct off the loop either.
Interesting observation regarding left handed operation, as that's not something we'd have covered within our review as we're all right handed; however, we'll be sure to mention it off the back of this feedback.
@@ukclimbingofficial to note, this is not a product of my left handed belaying but rather belaying right handed as I would need to on a GriGri for decent feeding of rope. If the opening mechanism were on the left side of the Pinch, I would never notice the possibility to open even as a left handed. Hopeful that was more clear.
I’m similarly interested, but appear to be the last person to get my hands on one!! Apparently we’re getting one out of the next batch to arrive in the UK and we’ll try to turn around the review as quick as we can (but after as much use as possible) 🤞
So it's actually a rebranded Salewa Ergo (both owned by the same company!!) and has been available for over 10 years now actually. But WC decided to grab it and rebrand 🤷🏼♂️
I have climbed with it a bit already. It's not really anything different from a grigri+. Feels decently similar when giving and taking slack. You do have a tiny bit more rope to pull because it sits lower, but it's not a massive difference. My main complaint would be that the closure system can be accidentally opened when belaying by pressuring the button with the rope (this can definitely happen when belaying with the "gaswerk-methode"). This can be a huge problem on thinner belay loops like you get on lightweight harnesses. Wider belay loops on harnesses like the corax keep everything together quite well, but you'll still be belaying with a slightly opened belay device. I'd very strongly recommend you always loop a carabineer in the eyelet after closing the mechanism to prevent any chance of the pinch opening up.
We hope to come back at some point to do another film, as we barely scratched the surface of what's available in London, as there's so many good walls - it's hard to fit them all in to one video!!
Climbing with dirty shoes in confusing on so many levels. On a purely performance basis it's such a bad idea, because who wants to be slipping around with wet/dirty shoes - it just makes everything harder (and less enjoyable)?!
split on each side were toes bend when walking on both GTX terrex shoes after 6 month they are shit.. Got pictures, they look new apart from the splits and its got a floppy heal
Worth trying to return them under warranty? That's certainly not been anywhere near our experience. Tim is still using his and they're still going strong!
I appreciate the effort that’s gone into the video. This watch could be entertainment for a select few people… but given the increasing poverty in Britain, if you do have 600 quid spare to spend on a watch that logs your HVS 2nd dog, it may be worth reconsidering your life values and try donating to your local food bank instead.
I can't disagree with the sentiment that you're making, because £599 is a lot of money. That said, food banks are a thing that shouldn't have to exist, and yet they do, and the number of people using them in the UK has increased (significantly). Something needs to be done about this and tomorrow's election presents the best opportunity to do achieve this. We need to treat the cause of the issue, as opposed to the symptoms, and the cause is the party that's let this happen on their watch...
Utter nonsense which won't catch on. Why do these folk think you can measure climbing as if it were a cardio sport (ie that involve simple measurable metrics which track performance directly)?
When it comes to not catching on, I wouldn’t speak too soon, because I think we’re at the beginning of a boom as far as this sort of thing is concerned. When it comes to measurement, it is - as I said within the review - of most relevance to mountaineers, as you get a whole load more data. Features such as elevation and navigation are really useful from a safety perspective. Obviously that’s a lot less relevant to boulderers, but the fact you can input grades and style of ascent adds context to what you’ve done, so it’s more than just a heart rate reading.
Hi Toby, it's Opening Break in t-Sneachda. Visually beautiful, and great for filming, but sadly - not the highest quality route (apparently). Still though, looks good doesn't it 🤣
My setup is - Garmin GPSMAP 62s for navigation and route tracking (with elevation, heading and all the fancy stuff) strapped to my backpack and only invoked when I am in doubt. And my watch? During the last few munrobagging adventures - Erebus Origin (still waiting for my Erebus Ascent :)) . I am done wearing "smart" watches - stupid, spying toys that ruin every experience for me. Wearing Garmin and later Apple watch, I found myself rushing as if it was a bloody race! Recently decided to switch to my new setup and half-way through the hike I realised my jaw hurts from all the smiling. And I finally truly ENJOYED the day in the mountains - if I wanted to sit down to enjoy the view - I did. If I wanted to turn around because I realised there was a better spot to take a photo - so I did. No subconscious pressure to press on, rush, because the watch on my hand reminded me of Samuel L. Jackson "Tick-Tock Moth...er!". Who the hell cares if I do the route in 5h or 7.5? I don't see myself returning to smart toys any time soon.
As I said within another response, I think it all comes down to what you want to get out of it. If you don’t want all those features, or find that they detract from the experience, then it’s definitely better to go without. As someone that runs/cycles, as well as climbs/mountaineers, I definitely find the data to be helpful - and on several levels too; however, it’s very much a case of ‘each to their own’ and doing whatever works best for you.
@@TheCadocas It's time to push back on electronic toys pushing themselves into every crevice of our lives. Enjoy the experience, don't a toy dictate what you think about your performance!
I think there’s room for both - enjoying the experience and analysing the data. That said, if you don’t want the latter, or find it detracts from the experience, then don’t buy into it - do whatever works best for you.
@@ukclimbingofficial my watches cost more than any electronic wrist toy :) it's a case of choice, not finances :) I agree - it's up to everyone's choice/preference. I used Garmin watches for 10+ years but no more. I'm done. And it's my choice :)
Update for the Scarpa super fans: the heel within the Drago XT isn't moulded, it's laser cut. This has allowed them to get a much more tailored and precise fit, although it sounds incredibly complex to construct (but Scarpa love a challenge, so we'd expect nothing less!!). We're hoping to do some more filming at the Scarpa showroom sometime soon, so watch this space for more detail...
Great video - I have discovered that blown synthetic fill materials such as Thermoplume are impossible to wash and dry successfully without clumping - despite following manufacturers recommendations
It's been a few years since I washed anything with Thermoplume, but I remember something similar happening - it just took a bit of time to separate the clumps and spread them back out throughout the baffles. I think there's a few Thermoplum products coming through for this autumn/winter, so we'll be sure to comment further on this when we review them.
So what's the solution - stop reporting on women's ascents altogether? Somehow I can't see that happening, and if we did I suspect we'd get far more complaints!!
So the surfers get ocean waves & not wave pools 👌 Climbers don't get to challenge on real rock 😶 I will always remember who firstly climbed Parthian Shot but an Olympic gold medallist ! Probably not & its not about ignorance 😂 It's just not rock 👍
It's just two very different things now - indoors and outdoors. Climbers constantly challenge themselves on 'real rock'; however, they also choose to challenge themselves on plastic too. Some climbers do both, other's don't, and much the same could be said for the audience - everyone has their personal preferences and biases. When it comes to why competitions don't take place on real rock, the main reason is environmental. There are examples from the 1980s where routes were manufactured for competitions, with drilled/glued holds, and that isn't something we should be encouraging. Within an indoor environment you can control exactly what holds you have on the wall, and the exact level of difficulty, which is important when you're trying to set apart athletes. In short: there's room for both :-)
We were all really impressed by how strong he looked in Budapest. If he’s on the same form in Paris then he’ll definitely be up there with a chance of a medal - maybe even another gold 👀
IMO, Janja has a 99% chance of winning gold and Jakob has maybe a 50% chance of winning gold, everything else is somewhat dependent on luck and form on the day.
