When you prep your material for the sides , flatten the stock on the jointer and then straighten the edge with the smooth face to the fence . When you resaw if you have a bandsaw it's a much safer operation . Resawing on a tablesaw can be pretty hairy , especially for a beginner , not the safest way to do it .
you might as well be assembling this in a factory for mass production - no hand tools - no real skill involved - electric everything - programmable planer - Sawstop perfectly aligned tablesaw ($$$$) - Dewalt Mitre saw ($$$) - oh - a tiny block plane to plane the trussrod strip - that is the extent of the woodworking skill here
Well to chisel the endgrain one have to have a very sharp chisel, not like this. Another thing, as well, many so called guitarmakers is not able to make a real dovetail and this is the case even here. Over all, this video did not convince me in any point at all. The bolt screved neck is another thing that is so very disgusting. Please dont make any more guitars, this is not a serious making.
This is great. But i must be the one to say: “it’s a lot easier and quicker to use a bending iron” EXCEPT you cant leave it to bend itself. Which IS a boon for the busy luthier.
Wow. I just came back from the Veteran Affairs Hospital and notice the neck of my guitar was crack were headstock and neck meet. I tend to abuse my guitar by leaving it hot car, leave it in the sun, let other people touch, tune high to keep very taunt string pressure and etc.. You get to know the personally of the area that way...I have guitar stolen from my car or people pretend to know how to play or take credit. The debate I have is replacing the the neck or getting a new guitar. Either way, They hate talented people and will lie like crap... Waste money, should brought a new guitar and etc...why they themselves don't know how to....Same goes for advance STEM degrees. For example, pretending to have medical degree, law degree and engineering degree to look important for the "kids" and their peers... Too much ego.. PS....Like building my computers and laptops, I will probably do stupid things like using construction adhesive and etc...I like to experiment. I remember putting a titanium rod the length of a neck... Stupid stuff as the tradition guitar builder would say...Before it was using power tools.
In regards to 11:00 can you please explain how to make your “pattern” for tracing the sides? This answer is difficult to locate on youtube. I am aware that one side of the “pattern” (or template) is flat and the other is contoured. Can you please explain how you decide on the contour of this particular side of the “pattern”? Thank you very much. Wonderful video.
I like it Mr Karlsven, geat video. I'm sure Sheldon is proud, going from fish nets and back gammon boards to classical guitars, and making an entire class out of it to boot.
I'd advise adding 3 to 4mm from the 12th fret wire to the center of the saddle. Your idea will work mathematically on paper but not in real life due to certain dynamics and angles. One in particular, for example, is that "half a string length" is twice as heavy as the full string length length changing the momentum of the string. ... After that then compensate the saddle (the thicker the string the further back it should go).
Thanks for all the straightforward demonstrations! I now feel fairly confident that I could complete this phase of the building process when I get into a woodshop. I have a few questions for you about overall design concepts and possible avenues to gaining access to a woodworking shop where I could rent the equipment until I can get my space together. Especially if you were someone nearby to my present location.
You can place your bridge in position and clamp in place on the bridge ears. Drill 2 small holes on each end of the bridge slot and insert pins. This makes placing it back in place errorless when ready to glue. You may not see it right away but not fully coating the bridge with glue will result in a bridge failure at some point. It’s MUCH easier to clean up squeeze out with a damp paper towel and chisel than to have to reset the bridge at some point in the future. After 6 dread builds I speak from experience. My very first bridge let go 2 years after building it. None of my others have moved. And a metal ruler in millimeters is much more accurate than the Stanley tape.
Metal ruler much more accurate also if using a tape measure, use the 1" mark on the 12th fret and just "remember" to add 1" to the bridge measurement .
where would we all be without power tools. god help us when we can't afford the electricity to use them anymore. i wonder if anyone knows how to use real tools.
Thank you for your help to make an acoustic guitar, most people I have seen their videos they never mentioned the curves on the braces stuck to the backs and fronts. Regards Richard Weir from down under.
what i love is that the $$K planer thicknesser needs a conversion chart because imperial fraction measurements don't work in lutherie. use a better system its called- metric, its easy, fast, less calculations=less mistakes. i like the teaching/ demo style.
Howdy Mr. Karlsven, I'm a woodworker and an ukulele player. I've made a few ukuleles in my tiny garage shop and really enjoyed the process. You did a wonderful job of explaining every step and I'm sure your students appreciate your patience and thoroughness.
