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It was too fast. I slowed it down to .5 and was able to follow along mostly. My firmware shows up as Chinese but I installed English. I even check it but yup, Chinese on the screen... Should I delete the Chinese files in all of the folders and leave the English? Should I only have a single file on the SD card when I turn it on?
I know it's an off-topic question... but does anyone know if the wifi/wireless features can be disabled and/or completely removed? Does it use a removable wifi card and can it be removed without any trouble? I have no use for wifi and would like to remove it altogether, so it doesn't end up becoming an unnecessary security problem.
Ive been kinda thinking about making a case myself, but i dont know what the bare minimum requirements of a case is. As in what are the parts that are technically need to make something that could run and then build on that. This is such a simple design that i think showes that pretty well although id love to hear if u have any pointers for what the basic requirements are for them so i can try to play with them and expand on that
So..does it print one layer...park the head...take a picture...then print another layer.. Repeat? The fact the ship grows with no bluring of the print arm confuses me.
Can I still remove the nozzle if I have filament stuck in it? After a power outage while in the middle of printing and after the power came back on I noticed my filament not extruding.
I saw a image on the waveshare page for the pi zero 2w which is a more powerful device , is there going to be a video update with the 2w? Would like to see it because there are none with the pi zero 2w on RU-vid.
It took me two days to get it working. All because of a problem with the documentation. They show a toggle switch on the main diagrams. I saw the hole where the switch should have been, but there was nothing there. The setup routine on the printer did a test that always failed when heating the hotplate. Contacted support and they asked me to check the voltage setting switch. I couldn't find one. So, since the unit shipped with a standard US 115V power cord, I assumed (incorrectly) that the voltage must not be changeable. We do not use 115V cables for 230V connections! Several support contacts later and me checking all the internal cable connections, another support tech said to check the voltage setting and sent a photo with two big red arrows pointing at that hole in the side! Sure enough, after leaning the unit so I could see inside the hole, there was a voltage change switch that was set to 230V! It wasn't a toggle switch as noted on the diagram, but a sliding switch. Being very precise in my use of the English language, I was looking for a toggle. Also, nowhere else in the documentation was there any mention of that toggle switch or about setting the voltage. Two days wasted because of unclear documentation.
Hi @kennethewald1189, I've just checked in the "Quick Installation Guide" there's no mention of a toggle, it also says to use a flathead screwdriver. In addition, this type of switch is fairly standard in power supplies. 🤷 On the other hand, you need damn good eyes to see into the tiny hole on the side of the machine 🤣 I had a hard time! Personally, I had more trouble with the filament insertion step: "until you can't push it in any more". As soon as I felt resistance, I didn't dare go any further into the extrusion head, with the result that nothing came out when I printed.
I purchased my SOVOL SV06 from the 2nd owner for a price I thought was attractive. Gosh it requires a lot of attention to keep it working. Today I noticed the extruder was wiggling. Not sure how much disassembly is required to fix the problem. Have 15 second video if you would like to see this. I am not a technician and could use any suggestions. Do you have a file uplink so I could send the video?
Hi everyone, i'm using Prusa mk3s and PronterFace, it's connect fine, and echo back the value for M92, but when i'm write new value for X and Y, it's stuck at Sending M92 X100.. can someone help me?
Since the Creality Klipper software doesn't yet support a 0.2mm nozzle, are you using Cura with a different Creality printer selected? I'm currently experimenting with my Ender 3 Pro and Fat Dragon Games profiles. Would be curious to hear about your method with the V3 KE.
Mine came with a piece of rubber that goes inside the top polycarbonate cover that guards against scratching of the cable chain. So that is fixed now. However, mine scratches the top cover because the cable chain rubs the top as it moves. Not a huge deal to me but they need to raise the cover a few millimeters. That would solve it. Other than that it's been a great printer. Coming from 3 VZBoT's the speed isn't out of this world but it is fast and doesn't sacrifice quality very much if at all. I have printed several spools of ABS, a spool of PPC, and some PETGCF and it handled all of them perfectly. Decent printer for the money.
4:31 Hello, I saw an official Creality aftersales video on replacing the K1C Unicorn nozzle. In the video, the upper copper ring is lubricated with silicone grease. In your video, you screw the nozzle in without lubrication. Do you know anything about this topic? I have not yet received an answer as to which silicone grease was used. Silicone grease is only supposed to work up to 200 degrees.
The upper copper ring (after the heat break) is there to keep incoming filament from melting due to heat creep before it enters the extruder. In theory it should rarely if ever go above 200°C so the silicone grease should be fine.
I have been a fan of yours for a long time, thanks to you I converted an Anet A8 into an AMV8 with a wheel system, skr 1.4 and marlin, thank you, now they just gave me this printer and it is about to arrive, but I have several questions, and if it is not a bother, I wanted Ask yourself, several people complain about the bed of this printer and what is the software that prints on it?
