yes, this sample board has urethane finish on it.

I don't know if you are making a comment or asking a question. The flooring I'm working with is white oak and has no stain on it. It is finished natural with nothing but a clear coating over the wood. The stain marker I'm working with is a light golden oak. Applying the stain using the method I demonstrate allows you to blend the scratch so that it is less noticeable.

My pleasure.

John, you keep acting as if my video is instructional in nature and it is not. It is nothing more than an overview of how we go about Clean & Recoat and the results we get to encourage prospective clients to use our service. I have never advised anyone to do this themselves but encourage them to hire someone with experience and a proven track record of successful projects. I don't recognize your sequence with pads and cleaners as something that will successfully clean the floor. Never heard of OdoBan and would never use steelwool, especially if you are going to use a waterborne product. If you have never used waterborne products, be prepared for a rude awakening because it is not forgiving at all. If your application is not done correctly you will not be able to correct it. As to when to move the furniture back in, that's a question you need to ask Pro Coat as every manufacturer has their own time line. Please, take my advice and hire someone with experience.

Thank you.

That is a question you need to putting to the manufacturers of Rejuvenate. They need to tell you what products and equipment you need to remove it. I don’t work with it and know nothing about it other than the fact there are a lot of very unhappy homeowners who have used it.

Hardening oils or hardening wax oils are finishes that have come into the market over the last twenty some odd years. They were developed in northern Europe and are very good and very expensive, in the $300-$400 per gallon range. They are not used in recoating floors and demand a pretty high level of skills.

I use the Basic Coatings sequence to clean the floor starting with Intensive Floor Treatment (IFT), followed by Squeaky and yes I do use maroon pads and other pads that are far too aggressive for anyone but a professional to use as they will quickly damage a floor if you do not have experience with them. I want to emphasize that I put these videos up as a way of introducing our approach to Clean & Recoat and the benefits homeowners experience from our process. They are promotional for Rosebud Co and are not instructional or meant to encourage homeowners to try this themselves. I feel it gives a homeowner the knowledge needed to look for professionals in their area to help them refurbish their hardwood floors. Appreciate your interest.

As I point out in the video, I do not use a screen in any part of the sequence. The objective isn't to remove any coating but to thoroughly clean what's on the floor and create a surface that the coating will adhere to. Screens are very aggressive and will cause serious damage to old wood and old finish. You also have to be very careful if there are major color variations in the wood as they will show thru if you're not careful. If you do not have experience working with waterborne coatings, Mega is a very popular one, I would not encourage you to use it as they are very unforgiving. Waterborne products do not have a very long open time and set up and start drying very rapidly and this can create some serious problems that are not easily resolved. I applaud your willingness to take this on yourself but would encourage you to find someone with prior experience if at all possible.

Animal urine will stain gloss, stain or matte. The luster does not make any difference. I work primarily with waterborne finishes. Basic Coatings, Bona Kemi and Pallmann have good selections.

@@RosebudCompany Thank you for your prompt response. Would epoxy work as a sealant?

I have never worked with epoxy so I’m not the one to ask. I usually associate epoxy as being used on concrete or similar hard surfaces.

@@RosebudCompany I just watched your other video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iz2Umkmve1s.html , my floor is the same, what kind of wood is that? can you please tell me which machine/pads did you use? my place/budge is really small, I'm attempting to do it myself. Thank you

@@TheBandoury i use Basic Coatings cleaning products, a buffer and several synthetic pads. the wood is oak. i do not recommend you trying this yourself as the finishes are not very forgiving and you could end up costing yourself a small fortune regardless the size of your budget.

I do work with polyurethanes but waterborne only. I have three manufacturers I rely on who have very strong product lines; Basic Coatings, Bona Kemi and Pallmann. If you don't have experience working with these products, I don't recommend using them as they are not forgiving to mistakes.

@@RosebudCompany. Thanks. Do you ever use Basic Coatings Refinisher? If so in what conditions would you use it versus true polyurethane?

@@zafferhead No, we only use the coatings full strength.

@@RosebudCompany. Thanks, I understand.

That depends on how much of the wood is pulled up in the removal of the laminate. If only a few pieces are effected you may be able to get by with replacing a few boards. If it’s widespread, the economics may dictate replacing more, if not the entire floor. Be careful trying to use a wood filler to fill in the damaged areas as wood filler often cracks up and comes out over time and use. If the home was built in the 1950’s you may have pine but standard 2 1/4 by 3/4 oak was being used much more at that time. You can easily find that thru most wood floor contractors. Pine flooring would usually be about 3” wide. Have a wood floor contractor look at.

The most common synthetic pad are maroon in color, readily available at wood floor distributors. Not sure if rental places would have them.

I really don’t think he would make that much difference. The stain marker really doesn’t have a lot of color in it like a stain straight out of a can. But if you would feel more comfortable doing it that way, by all means do it that way.

I have several different products I use to get older coatings off. The principal one contains methyl pyrrolidone and is not available on the commercial market.

I take your point Adam. I rely on Basic Coatings IFT, Squeaky and Tycote when needed and have avoided the adhesion issues. What I enjoy the most though is the heaviest piece of equipment is a buffer and at my age, that’s a real plus. Take care and best wishes.

Clean thoroughly with a wet pad, let dry completely then dry prep with maroon pad.

@@RosebudCompany Maroon pad for both wet and dry passes?

Glad to hear that. Best of luck with your project.

Dura Seal stains and waterborne topcoats.

Thanks for your kind words. Hope your project goes well.

Yes.

@@RosebudCompany the screen seemed really aggressive, would this same approach work with as square scrub or would the regular round buffer offer better results

@@jeffreycaldwell8836 i don't use them at all, on either machine so i'm not the guy you want to talk to about them.

All of your comments and questions should be directed to the group administering Henry Fords house known as Fair Lane. We were only responsible for the restoration work on the wood floors and have no information on tours and open dates.

Thank you sir. It was a once in a lifetime project and it was a joy to experience.

all manufactures of stains offer a neutral option you can use. test to see what ratio works for you.

@@RosebudCompany thank you very much I deeply appreciate it!

Amazing when one knows what he is doing. To apply stain I thought one needs to go to the original bare wood. Obviously not true. I didn’t see you use any sanders during this rehab of the floors. My bedroom finish or wax finish its wearing off. in part around the room back to its original state. So I need to pre-stain, then stain them apply Water base polyurethane

This video demonstrates how I use Clean & Recoat to refurbish an existing coating. Sorry but I'm not sure what you're talking about with white washing a wood floor.

@@RosebudCompany I’m sorry what I’m asking is I would like to strip the clear coating on the original floor and white wash stain the floor and seal the floor do I use this method, sand or screen

@@richardrivera9061 to do what you are wanting to do, you would have to get down to bare wood, to remove the finish entirely. no finish is removed in this process therefore you don't have the option of changing the color of the wood.

@@RosebudCompany ok great thank you I will get down to bare wood and then do the stain i appreciate your comment and help

@@richardrivera9061 my pleasure and best of luck.

I enjoy Magic Oil too but I have to ask what your problem is with water base or waterborne finishes?

@@RosebudCompany how many wooden boats or national treasures do we see finished with water based? Chemically, all urethane harden in time and develop fissures throughout them. They loose flexibility typically in about 4-8 years (factors may vary, such as UV exposure etc). When that loss of flexibility lends itself to developing micro fissures, waterborne urethane fissures are the width of water molecules. This makes them useless in preventing water and vapor penetration. The wood is no longer protected, especially not deep in it porous fibers. This is why grey stains have become so popular. Bona, a well known finish manufacturer, was a leader in getting the design and architecture world to promote grey stains. The limitations in waterborne urethane led to grey traffic areas, especially where there is more moisture, I.e. the front door and kitchen sink area. Using grey stains hides this limitation and failure of the finish. This is why grays have become so popular. It’s been pushed by the people with the money that make these finishes. Oil modified urethane crack too, but the fissures left behind in them form at much smaller fractures than the diameter of water molecules. This is why oil and water don’t mix. Oil repels water as it is structured with solvents that have a far smaller set of molecules involved. As our good friends on the left are fond of saying “follow the science”

@@williamburnam4693 Interesting. I appreciate your comments. I started fooling around with waterbornes shortly after they came on the market in 87, 88. Took them into a 1000 sf warehouse and tested them. Once I was comfortable with how to apply and how they performed under the testing I did on them, I put them in my selection of finishes. I've methodically done this with all the products I use since I started my business. Your comments are contrary to all I've ever learned from my own testing, what I've seen in performance on projects since the early 90's and what I've learned from chemists and technicians in and around the wood flooring industry. The only finishes I've ever refused to use were the acid-curing systems because of their toxicity and potential for combustion. Once I start using any finish, I always check on their performance over time as my work is completely dependent of word of mouth referrals. The performance of waterborne has brought me more business than any product I've every used. Data from NWFA and others show that these more expensive finishes have continued to gain market share over time and are the most popular finishes on the market. I have no clue what you're talking about with Bona pushing grey stains. I use their finishes, not their stains and am not aware of any effort on their part to promote a color to hide damage to wood floors. They weren't aware of it either. As to your comment about oil and water not mixing, Basic Coatings laid that myth to rest when they introduced Emulsion. I don't promote waterbornes, I've just made it my business to learn as much about them and every other finish as I possibly could and provide my clients with the most up to date information and let them make the decision. I typically match a clients lifestyle to someone I've worked for in the past and use them as a referral to gauge the durability of whatever product I think will suit their lifestyle and needs. So to each his own, use whatever products you are comfortable with. Don't know if you're a contractor or not so best wishes with your work or project.

@@RosebudCompany thank you for the thoughtful feed back. I can say this, you removed some finish that was 90 years old. I remove finish every day of my life. The homes I see with oil based enamels and finishes are many decades old and put up a good fight as well as reveal how well the surfaces are preserved, and the floors that are protected with water based finishes 6-10 years old are not worn through but gray as can be in their traffic areas and flaked in the sunny areas. Meanwhile, in the beltway Washington DC area I once worked, the floors we restored with oils and waxes in places like Robert E Lee’s boyhood home in Alexandria are as warm and well preserved as ever. We can talk with scientists and make our own observations and we can ask questions about our observations and we can attend classes and ask questions and sift through all of the subjective semantics, in the end we have what our eyes see and what our ears hear others tell us. My last tour in business took me to Bona headquarters in Denver where they bragged on their motto “always be sellin’”. I remember them back as Pacific Strong, then Bona Kemi and now Bona. I also know the formula in a jug of traffic today will not be the same formula 18 months from now as they are constantly reshooting their supply sources and reformulating and causing new learning curves. I know when their finish fails they blame the contractor and never offer to foot the bill for a project failure. I know that their own brochures that they give us in their classes tell us to screen and recoat their best finish in just four years then sand it off again in eight. Why is that? How many times can a floor be sanded? Mighty Mo would have had his floor replaced twice by now at that rate if we follow their instructions. How many plastic jugs is that? How many applicators? How many resources are used in that time to make that much finish to be used (according to instruction) every 4-5 years in a home? Is any of this considered as they proudly stamp their patented and copyrighted green leaf on the side of their jug? Just a few observations from my perspective.

@William Burnam technically we are water based, so.....

I second this.

Glad you found it helpful.