I'm here to show you how to repair, modify, and maintain your mopar vehicles. Taking on problems/modification that no one else has done. You can contact me on my discord channel discord.gg/3TnavQyy
@yungm303 yes. Honestly I know your suppose to replace it, but at the time the car was my daily and did have time to wait on a new nut. Nothing was wrong with the old one.
Both my 06 Dodge charger brake lines got ruined around this time also. The snow caused my lines to get brittle after 18 years of sitting outside. Blessed to have come across this video!
@@MonsterDodge24 Well, I haven't watched all your videos. By the way, I’m currently working with the same engine, a Durango RT 2011, I also bought one used with hemi tick. but after disassembling I did not find a problem. There may be a problem with the MDS hydraulic lifter(s). - knocking sounds were heard even 5 meters away
This was super helpful OP thanks - I got mine wired up in no time thanks to your guide. Definitely agree with the grabby tool - made fishing the wires so easy. Trickiest part for me was figuring out where to hide the extra ~6" of wire.
I am honored that you think I have a repair shop, but I don't. I just work on my cars at my house. Hopefully my charger videos can help with your issues. Thank you!
I have a 2014- I was just told the cylinder head needs replaced. Not sure what to do- Replace the cylinder or entire engine. I guess my question for you is how is yours running since the replacement? Thanks.
Well the jack a**es that did the original engine work messed up the block too, so i put a good cyclinder head on a dented block and its still leaking and burning oil. So now i need to rebuild with a new block.
I replaced the head. One of the screw holes was stripped and it was at an angle that I could not tap, I had a spare 5.7L hemi sitting on the stand and pulled the head from it. If you look at my other videos you will The rest of the process.
Got excited when I saw the truck is the EXACT same one I own, even the color. With video I found the upward torch light location backlighting into my eyes was giving me a headache, compressor noise another bonus. Wish you'd shown removing back attachment/adjuster of torsion arm.
Bro I just tried to do this today. That harness is a b*tch to deal with. I’m going set a whole day aside and just go to war with that passenger side valve cover. Respect to you for getting that done.
It ain't easy. Take your time. Don't force anything. Loosen the harness up as much as possible from all mounting points. You need a full day doing both sides.
I'm getting ready to do this. I have all new sensors, timing belt kit, new rocker arms crank and cam position sensors, oxygen sensors, evap, EGR, PCV, MAP sensor, coil packs and spark plugs. How about you? Any check engine lights after this finale?
Well i didn't replace all that, but i will stay that while you have the heads off replace the starter. If not later down the road you have to drop the entire exhaust to do the job.
Sorry i forgot to update this video, but there are no part numbers. Looked it up on my wholesaler site and they don't list the parts i showed in the video. The latches.
This video saved me when I was putting in the folding seats in my 2018 Pursuit. It all fit in, just was missing the components that you showed in the video to make it fit perfectly and latch. Thank you!
Why didn’t you show both sides. There’s a cam sensor on the passenger side thats not on the driver side which you have to remove in order to removed valave cover on the passenger side. Would help for your noneveryday mechanics. I fifgures it out but great one sided video for a general understanding. Not a full procedure though. So could leave some confused or still questioning
I’m starting full front suspension on 2002 4WD Sonoma. Is the order of operations remove sway bar links, upper arm, then lower arm? At what point would you do the tie rods? Thanks! Oh, how do you put tension back on torsion bar?
yes the order would be as you stated. The tie rod first because then that allows you to access the nut holding the upper control arm to the spindle. I would do the tie rods last, once everything back together. To put tension back on on the torsion bars you will tightening up the torsion screws that you loosen to remove the tension.
@@MonsterDodge24That makes sense. I’m getting a tool to remove the tension and I’ve read to mark the threads on the nuts so they are placed back as close as possible to original tension. Rust is accumulating on my garage floor 😂
If your replacing the lower control arm, then I would use a cutoff wheel and slice into the area around the torsion bar. If your not replacing the lower control arm, I would remove the nuts and bolts holding the lower control arm and see if the torsion bar will slide out with the lower control arm as one piece, removing it from lever.
@onemansvideos2134 when I looked I found that summit racing was selling one line for that price. Post the link here it will help those looking to replace the lines rather than make them like I did.
no problem. Its works if you have 2 different dash cams due to having a 2nd outlet by the tailgate. I would recommend checking out the rexing dash cams as they have good front and rear cams, but also a 4 camera set up. Check out my Durango video on the rexing R4 dash cam.
This was nice I appreciate your work and effort you put into these videos I been looking up videos on how to tear down a engine and rebuild as someone who only works on certain parts of my car uk the basics I’ve always been scared to touch things that deal with the engine and transmission your whole tear down video of this engine is wonderful I have the same car put it’s a pursuit you made it seem so simple video almost gave me too much confidence had me like man hold my beer I think I can tear it down and build it back in one day great video
Hey! Thank you for your kind word. I do appreciate that. I am glad that these videos helped. My goal was to show people how to do it, but also give an insight to all the tools I use. If you ever have any questions I am always here to help!
@@MonsterDodge24 I have a few actually but really just one I plan on doing an engine swap hopefully get a 6.1 but right now I want to maximize the life and power out of this 3.5L cause when I tear mine down the day I do will be watching this video at the time I do I want to rebuild the engine with new parts and components what would you recommend replacing when you tear this engine down can you cam this engine out also would I be able to put a kenne bell supercharger on it ik it a lot of work but I don’t mind if it wasn’t for my girlfriend who unfortunately passed away the beginning of this year I wouldn’t even have this car the car is all I got so I want to take care of it lol the transmission messed up rn can only go 45 looking for a transmission but it’s okay as long as I got my car I’m okay but what would u recommend replacing when rebuilding and can I put a kenne bell supercharger on this 3.5L V6
@@yungyarkko Well first off I will say you can't Super charger the 3.5L v6. no supercharger exist for it, Trust me I have looked. I recommend getting a full upper gasket set. I know you can get them off amazon, I personally have used rockauto in the US as my go to parts site. I don't know if they ship internationally. I also recommend getting new Head bolts, Timing belt tensioner, and water pump. I believe that is also a kit too. Your gonna need to change the oil when done, need new coolant and you will have to drain and refill the power steering and Air conditioning.
@@MonsterDodge24 okay I watch your whole series from tear down to rebuild and have to say you impressed a second time putting it back together I understand my engine so much cause if you i appreciate it I can’t wait for when I can tear mine down and rebuild it
hey bro on the puller right were you screw in the main bolt of the puller right there is a hex head like a nut but its part of the claw and you can put an open end box wrench on it to keep the pully from turning when you are trying to get the pully off instead of using a pry bar and messing up somthing.... just an FYI !!!!!!!
Yes its is the idler pulley, but in my case it has something to do with the housing where the pulley sits. I have changed it twice and still makes noise. It will make less noise if you put the tension pulley there as it better in free wheeling. The normal idler pulley seem to have some tension to it when you spin it in your hand.
Im having this same issue with my 2015 3500 ram laramie longhorn, it would only do it with the a/c or heat on, and actually while idling, something broke and the bolt to the idler pulley snapped of in the housing!!! I’ve changed the bolt and the noise stopped for a day and now its back to doing it but now with the a/c and heat off !!! I need help also
Im glad you posted so i could learn from you mistakes. I am researching now on how to add an aftermarket head unit and some kind of canbus bypass or integration.
@@MonsterDodge24 *I'm interested in slicing into the front speaker outputs directly behind my stereo and installing audio control LC1 line driver so I can run my RCA to the rear. I cannot splice into the rear speaker outputs because they've been cut. Are you able to tell me which wires coming from the head unit/CD player unit are the correct front door speaker wires?*
@@jcMarcell ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mTTltWW1WK4.htmlsi=Af4stFeDvNZvKZFM watch that video and go to the 18:30 mark. I post a screen shot of the radio wiring harness you can pause and look at. It will give you the speaker wires and colors.
