So happy I came across your vid! Put in new battery, new starter relay fuses & still just cranked. Then saw this. FP fuse was really messed up burnt so I knew problem but I had to do the paperclip and turned over😂😘😘
The power comes from the pilot flame on the thermo pile. When heated the thermo pile produces a small amount of electricity (5 millivolts) to open the gas valve
would this work for the valves on a lawnmower? I re-adjusted my valves to have clearance for a 004mm and since it hasn't been opened for a long time, some of the old gasket has stuck on the cover and some on the mating area. Somehow, it hadn't leaked when I bolted it back in when I fired it back up (I made sure to carefully not to lose any of the parts that were stuck on, and just realigned the broken/sketchy remnants of the old gasket). But I would rather have something less sketchy (it has only been a day so who knows when it's gonna start spilling oil xD)
If your gasket is not leaking even though damaged you likely will be fine. Most gaskets you purchase will be made of resin infused material to hold up better than the plain paper board I used.
@@bbbjim1fixedit So if I do end up replacing it, I should buy the actual gasket material kit that you can buy in homedepot? Like the ones with the rubber/paper and cork sheets kit?
Hello, That red line sticking out of the carb hole. I recently cleaned up the carb but when I went to out gas back in it gas immediately started leaking out of that red line sticking out of the carb hole. Any advice?
You may wish to look closer at the carb float, for it is likely leaking fuel from the carb bowl through the red emulsion tube. You likely have fuel contained oil if your oil is over filled. I wish you the best on your repair
very informative carburetor repair video. Lots of repair videos on your channel, Are you up for a collaboration? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and maybe we would work together to help more people in the community.
So mines been going in and out as well it doesn’t stay on long at all, one day it did it all day hasn’t done it for awhile now it’s doing it again and this time worse than before, if it needed freeon wouldn’t there be a leak? I recently got the condenser replaced and a few weeks ago when it happened the first time around I took it back they did a pressure test and said they couldn’t find any issues but also at that time the clutch was engaging just fine so I figured they wouldn’t find anything
Also if it ends up not being the freeon like you said at the end of the video due to it going in and out, do you just replace the compressor at that point?
freeon came out, could the switch that you talked about that needs the right pressure also be the cause of the compressor engaging then disengaging? When it does engage it’s cold as ice but of course as soon as it’s not it’s hot air again and sure enough it’s still engaging then disengaging shortly after then waits awhile before it does it again
you will need a manifold gauge set to double check the pressure and if it has enough refrigerant in the system, many auto parts stores have some they loan out for free. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit thank you I think I’m good now, originally I got the condenser replaced by the shop then the compressor started to cut in and out, shop said it was fine, ended up taking it back and they tried to say the same thing but by that time I noticed it did work fine in the mornings, and that’s when they were looking at it instead of when it got hot out in the afternoon, they looked again and apparently a seal needed replaced and so they did that and the recharge (for free but my condenser replacement and recharge originally was $600) now it’s working fine other then yesterday when the compressor completely stopped coming on rather than kicking in and out like it did before, turns out the pressure sensor I ordered off Amazon when the a/c was kicking on and off was a pos, luckily I kept my original one. I think I paid about $15 from Amazon since the autozone and advanced auto stores wanted nearly $100 for the pressure sensor haha
P2196, pre-catalytic converter oxygen sensor detecting a rich air to fuel ratio of the exhaust on bank 1, due to the unburnt cleaner flowing through the exhaust
I have a 2018 f150 single cab....So for a new battery, i let it sit for 8hrs then i do the steps which were 5times bright lights then 3 times on the break then i started up??! Thanks in advance...
Is there any cons if you take away the flex pipe and replace with regular pipe my g37 has the whole flex pipe ripped I need to replace it but I don’t know if doing that will make it sound ugly I’m tryna save the most money as possible
Every engine has a spec yet most are .004 on intake and .006 exhaust. It is possible the compression release went bad on the camshaft, a push rod is bent or a worn camshaft. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit it runs great once started, cut grass with it yesterday. With that said it's gotta be valves I would think. It turns over but then very very slow at certain points like in between compression
@@bbbjim1fixedit I'm assuming I need a new male fitting because my nut is going to strip. Should I just cut the line and flare it? It will prob take an hour or 2
In your layout, you made marks for 10 elements on each side of the antenna, but when you built it you only had 8 elements on each side of the antenna. Does it make any difference or not? Other than that your video was very well done, I enjoyed it am eager to build this antenna. So 20 elements total or 16 total, or does it matter?
You can buy them for around $20 from the biggest online retailer. Of course you can go old school and use a C-Clamp and brake pad to compress the piston.
Is there supposed to be power at that transducer switch plug? I'm assuming so. I have power at the fuse but when I use the test light on the 3 pins of the switch it doesn't light up.
the problem on this one is the needle and seat was leaking causing the crankcase to fill with fuel. A new needle and seat is around $6 and assuming the float is good this carb could be fixed. The replacement carb was about $11. I had good luck so far with after market Tecumseh carbs and hit and miss with Briggs. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit yes it is i figured out. For some reason the red pc was disconnecting and was in the pressure switch. I did get working. I blew some air through the threaded end and it works for now. Thx for the video!
Good video. You might want to check your manual and the small picture next to the oil fill tube. Both clearly show that you should screw the dipstick all the way in to take an accurate reading. Not screwing it in might lead to overfilling the oil.
