I put a GWR 1.8" Max Power (catless) header, GWR Helmholz midpipe and GWR SuperQ muffler on my car. It opened up the performance. The car accelerates with less effort now. I get pops when I up shift, and when I lift to coast, and I don't have a tune installed yet. I installed one O2 sensor in the header and the other in the midpipe, and have never had any CEL. I am considering Versatuner over ECUtek for cost reasons, as well as no plans to use any of the racerom additions that ECUtek provides. Did you buy directly from Versatuner, or one of their tuner partners? Dynotronics, Fab9 and Xero-Limit are three tuner partners with Versatuner that will provide tuning services. I am considering Xero-Limit, due to their longevity and quality work.
Hello, I am a proponant of replacing the "piano black" interior parts with body color. That's what I would do with the fuel cap as well. Whatever, have fun in your new ride!
While you're doing the suspension add some adjustable sway bars and end links. Its a lot of fun dialing in the handling with the added over-steer/under-steer adjustment. Replace any failed bushes you find while doing the suspension and definitely get an alignment afterwards.
4 дня назад
Great video and explanations!! I'm about to set out on my own as well. But I'm going to install the new Sony XAV - AX6050. and I see that on the back it does not have exactly the same inputs as your model. Do you think the same accessories would work for me?? Could you follow the same steps? or do you see something different to keep in mind?
Yes the only thing I hate about my Velo are the doors mainly the driver door. As you mentioned it is super long, I am thinking about getting the lambo doors so I can actually get out of the car in tight area's not for looks but actual use lol.
if ur making it a 2 day job, spray fasteners with penetrating fluid so it soaks in overnight. Also, since you're taking the calipers off, THAT is the best time to do the painting correctly. Caliper is hanging up on the guide pin. Clean VERY well & regrease with CORRECT grease. Ok, gotta STOP watching these clowns who don't know what they're doing.
I to prefer the look of the hardtop on a soft top vs the PHRT slightly however in my area the PHRT are around the same price as soft top and the hardtop is around 2-3 grand and hard to find and PHRT u don’t have to store unlike Hardtop when not in use
I’ve got the center dash trim off my 08 that you can have to experiment with if you don’t want to chance ruining the original. I live near your brother so next time you’re in town I’d be happy to drop it by. Also I agree with a Cipher Steering Wheel upgrade, probably the best thing I’ve done to my NC3. Good luck and I’ll be following your progress.
My suggestions: 1. A Cipher steering wheel. The steering wheel is what you interact with constantly while you drive, and the Cipher wheel's shape is a huge improvement, if you drive with two hands on the wheel, at the 3 and 9 positions. If you are a driver who steers with your left hand on the top of the wheel (bad steering technique!) don't waste your money on a different steering wheel for "the look". 2. Spray those orange side markers on the front bumper with a gray tint paint. It makes a huge difference, and the side markers will still be visible at night. 3. I think that replacing the piano black center dash trim with one that's painted Winning Blue would look great. 4. Flyin' Miata door bushings. They improve the stiffness of the car, and their new (2nd generation) are only $20 for a pair. 5. Paint the silver rollbar hoop covers Winning Blue to match the dash suggestion (#3) 6. Add an auto dimming rearview mirror. I put a Gentex in, with a digital compass display. It was under $60, is a direct swap, and has three wires to hook up.
The stubby antenna was the very first mod I did to my NB2. It looked like a RC Car with the factory antenna going up and down Everytime you turned on the ignition 😂. Not sure if it's a issue on the NC but a shifter rebuild with the bronze bushing was the second and still two years later the most effective mod I've done. Instantly made the car feel better and just more fun.
Hi Austin, Congratulations on your 2006 MX-5 Sport. I love to hear you will be adding *Upgrades* over time to your liking. Personally, I think many of the mods we choose depends on our personal objectives and it's nice to share our experiences with each other to help us make some good choices. With Koni yellows already installed, I recommend going with Progress Springs. It will lower the car and compliment the upgraded struts, wheels, tires and are relatively inexpensive. With Jordan's Racing Beat header, will definitely give you more torque over stock. What mid-pipe do you plan to add? Goodwin Racing makes an excellent mid-pipe (RoadsterSport Helmholtz Mid-pipe) that removes the drone that typically occur at cruising speed. What kind of tune will you do? I recommend finding a qualified Ecutek tuner to get the most out of your exhaust and intake upgrades with premium fuel. The Ecutek race-rom special features like downshift auto-blip and map switching are convenient for rev-shift matching and switching from economy fuel to performance tune from the cruise control switchgear and control switches. The following are upgrades I've done to my 2012 MX-5 PRHT GT: Exhaust: RoadsterSport Max Power 1.6 Inch header (ceramic coated) RoadsterSport Helmholtz Mid-pipe RoadsterSport Super-Q Exhaust Suspension: Cobalt 3-Point Shock Tower Brace RoadsterSport Sway Bar End Links Goodwin Racing 36/58 Sport Bumpstop Kit Progress Technology Spring Set Progress Technology Sway Bars (front/rear) PowerFlex Door Stop Bushings Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks Brakes: Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Lines StopTech Slotted Rotors Porterfield R4S Pads Wheels/Tires: Enkei PF01 Silver 17x8 +50mm 5x114 Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 225/45/17 Hubcentric Rings 73/67 McGard Lug Nuts Cooling: Moroso Power Steering Reservoir Moroso Coolant Expansion Tank CSF Single-Pass 32mm Radiator Clutch: Braided Stainless Steel Clutch Line Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit Engine: RoadsterSport Competition Motor Mounts Ecutek RaceROM Tune K&N Drop-In Filter Tuning was done by Olympic Motorsports in Boca Raton Florida on Premium 93 octane fuel and made 173.1 HP and 162.9 torque at the wheels (Mustang Dynamometer). With the mods I've done, has transformed my car in terms of handling, braking and acceleration. My car is a 'daily driver' and drive 'spirited' in the Florida backroads with my Mazda MX5 club. In my opinion, it's the way the car should have shipped from the factory. --Fernando
ive been driving a 2.0l nc1 for about a year and a half now and its such a great car, 1000 percent nc1 soft top is the way to go, if u want a hard top get the removable hard top it looks so much better than the prht with its bulbus cabin look, its lighter, the rear end looks way better, the nc1 grill actually looks like a miata where as the nc2 and 3 smiling grille is genuinly horrific, to anyone concerned about getting a nc1 instead of an nc2 or nc3 dont stress they are still extremely fun extremely reliable and i think the price cut and benifits for getting an nc1 soft top outweighs the pro's of whatever an nc2/nc3 prht offers
Mate hello from Brisbane where I'm sitting in my blue 06. Had it 5 years and it's been my daily. I got coilovers early on but reckon the best option probably would have been the FM full kit. This thing is a scalpel but lacks the balance of the OEM and probably the FM. I suggest checking out that kind of option as you get to know the car. Cheers John
The old Mazdaspeed front end looks really good if you can find one and want to part with the cash. Progress springs and sway bars with Koni yellows are supposed to be a great choice
Looking forward to seeing the build. I've just started to mod my '06... I am envious of your Air Conditioning, that's going to be a big job for me. I agree it needs a front splitter/lip. I'm leaning towards the Garage Vary one, but we'll see. I went full chrome delete (mine's True Red, so the chrome was a bit garish for my taste). For Spoilers, I like a duck tail so leaning towards Jet Stream for mine. Wheels are expensive so for me that's far in the future. I like the darker wheel look on your blue though, I hope you keep in that theme. Interior: I think you're right on about NC2+ door cards and centre console... those cup holders. Hope modding is as fun for you as it is for me, can't wait to see what you do!
Good choice. I picked up my 2006 Winning Blue about 10 years ago. Since then... 2.5 swap with cams, Ohlins with 10/8K springs, urethane bushings, rear sway delete, Wilwood brakes, Weds 17x9-17 with 255 or 245 tires, Quaife LSD. MS replica front bumper and skirts, Sparco race seats and much more. Made 180 at the wheels. Great weekend and track toy. Recently added a Fab9 turbo that I'm working the kinks out of. Look at MeisterR coilovers Biggest issue you'll run into with the NCs and any engine mods is finding a responsive and reliable ecutek tuner. Looking forward to your adventure.
Good discussion. For a street driven NC, I suggest buying the highest optioned model you can find, in your price range. I would rather have the extra options and not use them rather than getting a stripped down model and missing some nice features and options. That said, consider the condition of the BASE CAR that you have, and ignore the suspension or other performance parts it came with. The aftermarket for NCs is so vast that you can modify any components that your NC has which is either worn, or disappointing (stock suspension). So, find a solid body and frame, with a good engine and transmission (6 speed preferred). I bought a 2008 GT PRHT 6MT, in 2018. 99.5K miles, one owner “Miata club” car, clean CarFax. $9K out the door. Absolutely the best mod was the MeisterR CRD coilovers. The NC1 stock suspension was total crap, so the MeisterR CRDs transformed it. Then I added 17x8” Enkei PF01 wheels and 235/40R17 tires. And the other big performance mod is the Goodwin Racing 1.8” Max Power catless header, Helmholz midpipe, and SuperQ muffler. The car is fantastic, and I will keep it until it falls apart and dies…or I do.
Good discussion. For a street driven NC, I suggest buying the highest optioned model you can find, in your price range. I would rather have the extra options and not use them rather than getting a stripped down model and missing some nice features and options. That said, consider the condition of the BASE CAR that you have, and ignore the suspension or other performance parts it came with. The aftermarket for NCs is so vast that you can modify any components that your NC has which is either worn, or disappointing (stock suspension). So, find a solid body and frame, with a good engine and transmission (6 speed preferred).
Since they don't respond to comments on this channel I will. 2012 special edition and 2013+ club trim have black roof and mirrors. I think the 25th anniversary edition also had a black window surround in addition to the roof and mirrors.
Could you guys do a vid sometime about whether modifying even makes sense? Some people have a use case, some don’t, but the latter still spend 1000s on coilovers and other bits that may ruin its streetability. Would be cool to see you guys’ point of view on that!
