Do you happen to have the kubota l 7291 instructions? My kit didn’t come with any and I’m having a hard time finding them anywhere. You pictures of your instructions aren’t clear enough in the video.
Well designed and done. You should make the brackets into a kit and post on line or draw up and sell them. Take care and stay safe when under your vehicles.
Best wheel mod I have seen so far for the Quickjacks! I will be making a set of these for my 7000TL very soon. Thank you for sharing your engineering skills with us. You should patent this design!
Great video! Frankly I’m jealous of how clean your garage is. I know you have to have another workshop. I am going to use your design on my quickjack as well, I too have a welder and can fab my own brackets, I may purchase a stronger wheel though. Thanks for the video, well done sir.
That's really cool Neal! Very good innovation! I am thinking of pulling the trigger on the same 7000TLX set. And while 100lbs each side isn't too heavy, it's just heavy enough for one to crush a toe if not fully alert... And just to confirm; because I think this may be asked... When the nut-washer-rod stack passes through the Quickjack there is still a gap on each end so that each bracket themselves ARE NOT in a bind against the Quickjack, but in a bind against the (now internal) nut-washer-rod stack; is this a correct assumption? Or does it not matter? I suppose it may not matter as the brackets being in a bind against the Quickjack will work the same as we are not necessarily wanting your design to work as a hinge per se; just something that is serviceable and removeable,,,,, this might also explain why you chose to not just simply weld the casters directly to the Quickjack... Anyhoo, I'm rambling now. Very nice ingenuity! Stay safe out there!
Clever solution, Neil! I have the 5000 version of that quick jack. It is a struggle to position when under the car. It very quickly takes the fun out of using that tool. I'm going to use your idea on them. Thank you!!
Great improvement to these quickjacks. I've had a hard time sliding mine to where I needed them under my vehicles. I'll be making this modification soon. Thanks.
Great job, I will definitely be using your design as inspiration for my jack when I get one. Buy the way, love the flag on the wall with the hanging brackets.
You are absolutely correct! Thanks for the suggestion. I bought 8 wheels from Amazon price at $15.99. Here is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K921R3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Neal, thanks for making this video. I am about to install this same set up on my L2501. 2 questions: 1. I have the factory third function kit installed on my tractor. How will that effect the install of these components? 2. It seems as if the part numbers have changed from Kubota, can anyone confirm that and relay the new part numbers? Thanks all, Joel
I know the part numbers have changed, you will need to call the salesman to the get the new ones. I don't understand the rest of your question. You said you have the third function kit already installed but want to know how to install the third function kit. Can you restate your question?
I got the idea from the farm, we used these to pick up hay that was sickled down. I never seen one you could buy so I made mine and painted it to match the tractor. I used for picking up brush since there isn't much hay in the desert.
Greetings from Wisconsin! Great video Neal. I've had my L2501 for over 3 years now and I've done several videos on it, but I'm getting ready to go all hydraulic with my implements. I've been looking at the multipliers from summit, I just don't like the "universal" fit of them. I love the looks of the OEM kit but just wish it had more options, like 4 remotes, top & tilt, and then like an angle and offset for my rear blade or chute rotation and deflection for my snow blower. How is yours holding up, and any regrets or thoughts how you'd do anything different? Part of me wants to do it myself, the other half just says drop it off at the dealer and say "have at er, boys! ".
I liked the look of this install but it was expensive, and yes, it is limited to 3 valves. As I recall, I mentioned another way to install valves and it hindsight, I would have gone that route. I would remove the joy stick loader controller and use regular throw arms. This would take a little fabrication to make the bracket to hold all of the valves and a plate for the rear end hydraulic hook ups. At the time, I couldn't have any down time on the tractor so I went with the quickest method.
Yeah I like the monoblock set up, just not all the hoses to hook it up. The diverter system uses the same supply and return, but you only select one or two circuits to utilize. It's 80% electronic control vs 20% lines. But they're universal hookups not model specific. The universal summit kits have tons of extra wires and wrong sized fittings, I'm to the point in not too worried about the money as I am about the fit and finish.
@@ironheadbiker The problem with the solenoids is they are on or off. Hydraulic levers allow you to feather your control and they are cheap. I guess the hoses would drive the cost up though. The electrical control would be the best way to if they have proportional control. I'm guessing those maybe be expensive?
I have a third function kit from the dealer already installed, I wonder if that will change the installation at all with how the power beyondis run? Anyone know?
Excellent video, sir. Appreciate you putting this together. I’m now undertaking this project myself and noticed the Kubota kits for a 3301 have changed somewhat (ie. valve hoses come out the bottom instead of the top of the valves). The hose connections everywhere in this kit are -8(1/2”) whereas these for the valve ports are -6(3/8”). And the instructions now say to angle them 30deg as you had mentioned. Am curious to know if your fittings going into the A/B ports of the valves had been larger 1/2” or smaller 3/8”? I’m hoping to cram a third valve in there. Also on each of my new valves, there is a flat plate pre-installed and the lever bracket comes in a bag in the box. Do you recall having to take off the pre-installed flat plate before adding the lever plate?
I see now that the flat plate I’m referring to is a clamp plate to keep the valve stem down. Still wondering about your hose sizes and fittings coming in and out of Valve Ports A & B. Thanks in advance.
@@nealconrardy thanks for the reply, Neal. I noticed too they want me taking my rear tire off, but I’m scratching my head over whether that’s even necessary. I may give it a go without doing so, since this is a loaded R4.
Got this done (the easy way) thanks to your video, Neal. I did end up having to take the rear tire and fender off just to have the clearance needed for that third valve and outlet block to be able to slip over the longer studs. Thanks again.
@@ayak5318 In the video, I tightened 2 nuts together on each stud and then stuck the studs into the valves and then put that whole assembly on the tractor. Using the 2 nuts, I tightened the studs in and then removed the nuts. I'm not sure if that would have worked for 3 valves but it did for 2 valves with out the need to remove the fender and tire.
I know this is a long shot but do you by any chance still have the manual that came with the first position valve kit? I was able to snag a kit on EBay but it didn’t come with the kit. Mainly just want to see if I got everything that’s supposed to be in the kit.
Outstanding installation....very sanitary. Since I'm on my 3rd Kubota and used them with a business, curious as to why you call it a Kubuta when it's an "O" after the "B". Not sure if you're from Canada or some other Country, just was puzzled. Keep up the nice installs; looks very professional. A lot to be proud of there!!
@@nealconrardy Thanks! I did. It looks like Kubota has changed the numbers for this part kit also. The new number seems to be L7211, not sure it actually includes the valve though. I'm going to pursue the aftermarket route for now. Thanks again for your reply.
Thanks for a great video on this subject. Very enlightening. Do you have a more detailed part number? I can't seem to find this kit on the Kubota web site or Messick's. Thanks!
Thanks Neal, great video. I also have the backhoe so I am trying to figure out if that changes my game plan at all. It says custom length hoses but I don't know what I don't know yet. I will look into the aftermarket setups but I like the clean install you have there. I just want a top and tilt setup for the 3-pt running a box blade, seems like I better find my wallet.
I have a BH77 backhoe but I bought the tractor with one set of rear remotes already installed. trying to figure if i need to add to the rear remote blocks or some other way. what did you end up doing?
I have just got my L2501 and want to install the hydraulic kits on the rear. Just wondering how come your Instruction manuals say "for use with L3200 and L3800"? Also, can you give the prices of the kits?
An OEM setup is expensive. I think it was around $1200 for the kit for 2 valves. I would guess 3 valves would be around another $500. You could easily save your 50-70% if you went the aftermarket route. As far as the manuals, I am guessing the parts are the same for the L3200 and L3800?
I don't know for sure. The documentation is pretty weak but according to the controller, one can move to and from the waypoint path. There is also a speed setting that is variable but again, I have not tried out yet. I have only ran curved cable camera modes a couple of times.
I tried changing the speed of the drone using the tortoise/rabbit slider. It seemed vary the speed between the waypoints. The mode can move forward and backwards only the cable mode as well.
