I've been into the hobby of assembling and painting models since I was a kid. Whether its gunpla, scale models, or figures; I've always had a passion and great interest in the process of assembly and painting.
I chase aesthetics that inspire me, and love learning new techniques along the way.
I'm here to share my my process and passion for my various hobbies, and hopefully impart some knowledge that other people may find useful.
What a great build! How long did that take you from start to finish? I have this kit on my backlog and I hope I can come close to what you achieved(wishful thinking!).
@@rmsamonte about 2 months on and off between working a full time job. Really, it was just patience and planning. Probably the toughest part was doing decals. The ones that come with the kit are old and started to tear, liquid decal film from Microscale Industries fixes that, but made the decals just a little thicker. I would say give it a go! You never know until you try.
Hello, I recently got the kit and want to follow along the video to achieve a similar result. Just one question, how do you attach the canoopy in place while painting the main body? I see you remove it afterwards, so is it blue-tac?
I used poster tac to fix the canopy in place and protect the cockpit before paint. After I was done painting the outside, I ended touching it up by hand. In retrospect, I would have used masking tape or masking fluid, and would have left the canopy on the side. However, if you're talking about installing the canopy in the end, I used Micro Kristal Klear. Happy Building!
I'm kinda new to building gunpla but is there a difference between the expensive branded sand papers and some regular cheap sand papers found in any hardware store?
That's a hard question to answer, it depends on the brand you buy. I recommend the 3m wet/dry sandpaper which I have used before and that seemed to work pretty well
I usually just use a Dspiae glass file after cutting off the nubs. Works pretty well every time. If there's still stress marks even when flat, 95% of the time rubbing it with my finger nail does the job.
Hello there! I saw that you used water slide decals for this kit but the one I bought comes with regular sticker decals on a yellow sheet. Where did you get the water slide decals?
They're the official Good Smile Company waterslide decals for the kit. Unfortunately, they only go up for pre order and are limited. There are some third party options, but I haven't been able to get any. You can check the Good Smile Company website and they might be up for pre order for another run.
With this technique, i'm gonna finish my 15 gunpla quickly. Thanks ! (Do you have make a video on the markers ? 'cause i'm gonna try with some gold on the mg barbatos and i research good techniques for newbies)
You could just cut flush and then sand. i call it the "cut and sand method" that saves the pointless step of cutting the wide part for no reason at all. It's also good for nips.
For someone who is painting that would be the way to go, however, not everyone fully paints their kits and more often than not, like to use the bare plastic. Therefore its technically not pointless as taking that extra step helps reduce stress marks from my experience. It also doesnt take that much time to do. But to each their own. If that works for you, keep at it.
Is that a uv curing putty that you applied on the nose? I’ve never seen that before but I bet it comes in handy. Can you tell me where you purchased it please?
The one thing I wish I had or knew about when starting, is how amazing a good quality glass file helps! Also how amazing sanding sponges are for curved pieces.
Honestly. Glass file, all day every day. Only tool I use now. It’s like rough grit sand paper that leaves a surface so shiny it’s better than the mold itself. Every piece I have now has nub marks that look better than the rest of the plastic.
I started using glass files recently myself, total game changer and time saver for general assembly. I still do the traditional way depending on the nub but I also fully paint my kits so definitely depends on your style
The most time saving technique is knowing which parts are highly visible and you should spend time sanding vs gate nubs that you will never see and can snip away.
CAT! CATS! This is the best video I've seen that actually shows what lighting solution you opted for. I plan to get a Pace in another couple of years, so this was a great video.
Easily the most informative video I've seen when it comes to nub marks and stuff. I built a Deathscythe MG as my first kit a day ago and I had the misfortune if being so full of myself and assembled it all while a lot of nub marks are still on it, lmao. Anyway, I'll do my best to sand the visible nub marks and eventually top coat it. Lastly, you earned yourself a subscriber.
Its UV Curing Putty from Madworks/Phrozen. The branding seems to change but when I bought it, was advertised from Madworks. Works great for small patches like those feet you saw.
You can (at least as of a couple of years ago the last time I did it) contact Games Workshop customer service and request a PDF of the assembly instructions for free for just about any kit no matter how old. Good work, BTW.
I'd like to add that the C'Tan were basically gods to the Necrons, and the Necrons eventually rose up and killed/defeated their own gods and seized back control for themselves. Not a lot of factions can say they killed their own gods!
I don't know if I believe you.... You have a suspiciously high amount of citadel paints for a guy who has never painted Warhammer before... And a Gunpla expert... But you DIDN'T start with T'au...? I think I'll keep an eye on you, boy.... ....because it was a good video. Well done.
I don't know if I believe you.... You have a suspiciously high amount of citadel paints for a guy who has never painted Warhammer before... And a Gunpla expert... But you DIDN'T start with T'au...? I think I'll keep an eye on you, boy.... ....because it was a good video. Well done.
