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I had gone under so many monster waves in Brasil beaches, just so I live another breath after adventuring wetting my knees. And have no idea how I’m still here telling this story. I’m retired now. 😅
Oh that is so scary I would definitely not be out there swimming I get panicked really easy when it comes to water in the sea and having my head keep being put under water by these big crashing waves would just put me into a massive panic so I would be done for so scary. I had a friend when I was younger who was really strong and they would hold my head underwater a lot when we went swimming thinking it was funny I have never been the same since, you are fighting not to drown and then the panic sets in for them to bring you back up you get a breath of air to be pushed back under. I can swim but having waved crash over me and be pushed under water just brings out my trauma so it is a no from me.
Islander here, getting in and under the wave till it passes works... unless the wave was stronger than you think and you didn't go low enough, your timing is off and you smack your head in the sand 😂
I was about to die one time I was surfing and big wave hit me it took like 40 seconds for me to service on top then a big wave hit me as soon as I took a breath and I was rolling around I hit the ground bounced around it was crazy I thought I was dead.
