If the compression is too low , angle cut the heads! A thicker intake gasket may be needed if you get crazy. The intake surface has to be cut at the same angle, its not the cheapest mod. But it also increases the flow in to the cylinders. Putting the valves at a slightly different angle ,more towards 18°, nothing near it. I have a set of these heads . I'm itching to take them off and give them a little scratch!!!... I want to drop compression, do I Can add boost!! It's about 11:1. I'd like 9.8-10:1, and 10 psi. Minimum!
Great videos. Getting ready to work on procomp 210 for sbc. You recommended an economical valve choice in one video, but cant find it. Thanks for the help
I have a LOT of excess valve guide sticking into the exhaust ports of my Profiler 195cc (raised, D-port exhaust ports). They're 11/32" ID, and 0.530" outside diameter valve guides. Where do I get this tool from? What is the tool called? Someone recommended this tool to me, but it is only 0.500" wide and won't cut a 0.530 valve guide: www.beamequipment.com/Valve_Guide_Cutters-Cobalt_Power_Guide_Trimmer.html The CompCams valve guide trimmers are just designed to thin the OD to accomodate smaller diameter valve seals and won't shorten a valve guide on the port side, either... Question: What's the name of the tool you used and where can I get one?
Flow difference between having this guide's modified like this and tapered ones being fitted are not a lot of difference but the stability and valve life would be reduced due to this modification. Especially with the weight of 2 valve heads. Tapered would be my choice in helping flow. Heat sink will also be concern especially for the exhaust valves which could cause detonation due to overheating.
I simply break the sharp edges with 80 grit by hand. Very important and then I simply polish the piston with the finer wire brush on the bench grinder. Effectively the same job and about 10 min a piston.
Bolted a pair of those "Blue Print Engine" heads on my motor "OUT OF the BOX" only a 1000 miles on them so far but i will let you know if i have a problem
It is like playing poker sir, you never know what your delt with Any companies, from China made stuff, to top of the line American made stuff. There used to be an old saying about "I hope I get a pair of heads made on Tuesday or Wednesday, I damn sure don't want a pair made on Monday or Friday" kind of thing. I can only tell you what I have seen over 26 years of doing this, that 8.5 out of 10 pairs of heads that I have taken out of the box (hell, 9 out of 10) had seat runnout's of greater than .006, with 6 out of 10 having runnout's greater than .010 !!! That is unreal. That means that within about 1000 to 3000 miles, your leaking through the valves anywhere from 8% to 15%!!! Like I said (I believe i said this in one of my videos), My first job in California while in machinist school was a Dyno Operator; and my first jobs was that THREE of my shops customers owned race teams (Baja and Drag) and we had two "MULE" motors that we kept on a stand so when the race teams done a NEW pair of heads my job was to load the new heads on one of the "MULE" (a mule engine is one that's sole purpose is to make mods on a given area with the bottom end staying the same for comparison reasons) engine, and run the engine for 3 to 6 hours going UP and DOWN the RPM range. At first I thought it was to "BREAK-IN" the heads (I was stupid, and NEW to the game); but after doing it a few weeks I ask my shop forman Paul Smith (Specialized Motor Service in Riverside) why they were bring them there to break-in, them coming back a few days latter and putting them back on the engine and get a new reading... It NEVER failed that when they brought them back, there would be anywhere between10 to 25 (once I seen almost 40) horsepower increase!!!!!!!!!!!! Paul then explained to me that the Guides, Seats form there on place as far as seating, and PULLS the valves into its given position. This was Mainly on the Aluminum Heads, and I mean HIGH DOLLAR ALUMINUM head from Ford SVO, Brodix, Dart and Keith Black. IT BLOWED ME AWAY!!! One other thing, after a few months to monitor spring pressure and power loss (on engines that ran a race or three) we would bolt them on and dyno them and as always, they would be down around 5 to 15 Horsepower on Aluminum heads, ALWAYS!!! This is because of cycling heat and cold, and that was the end of it; as the valve job would stay concentric for a LONG TIME after the 2nd valve job was done.
MORE THAN LIKELY ITS A PRODUCTION VJ DONE WITH A SERTI MACHINE OR OTHER TYPE, AND (SOME ) OF THE PEOPLE THAT RUN THESE MACHINES HAVE NO CLUE OR JUST DONT CARE JUST AS LONG AS THERE GETTING A PAY CHECK, MY PERSONAL PREFERENCE TO THIS DAY IS STILL A STONE GROUND VALVE SEAT JOB IT CAN NOT BE BEET THATS IF ALL YOUR PILOTS AND MANDRILLS ARE UP TO SNUFF, SIOUX STONES AND MANDRILLS IF YOU CAN FIND OR THE EQALE QUALITY, A STONE VALVE SEAT JOB WHEN GRINDING AS SOME OF YOU KNOW WHEN YOU LIFT THE STONE HAS CONTACTED THE SEAT 360 DEG AROUND IF YOUR SEAT IS SQ IN ITS FOUNDATION, A SERTI TYPE IS CUT WITH USALY A DOUBLE FLUTED CUTTER AND IF THE OPERATOR IS ASLEEP AT THE WHEEL WHEN HE LIFTS QWIKLY THERE WILL BE A SPEED BUMP IN THE SEAT, AND IF THIS SPEED BUMP IN THE SEAT IS NOT TAKEN CARE OF BEFORE ASSEMBLE YOU WILL SEE MAJOR DAY LIGHT OR FLUID RUN OUT OF THE PORT LIKE THIS VID IS SHOWING, GREAT VID HEADBYTES PORTING, HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL. JEFF D.
That is disaster waiting to happen. I didn't even think of the valve head coming away from the stem! Also the leakage will burn the seats, further reducing compression and also, like you said, cause overheating, low power, and rough running. China makes some things good but not valves. It's like their metals suck on the molecular level.
Thank you much, you too and your family. thanks for making my day by viewing my channel, you wont believe what your going to see SOON. I will keep you in my folder to notify.
thanks guy, keep watching because I am about to start posting again, and something you will really want is coming in the next three months. My website is under construction, stay TUNED!!!
Hi Mr , I had same problem with a KIA head , ready to fit with lifters and even camshafts , it came in a KIA box ,so I trust the shop and fitted in the engine , this started missing and running uneven , after a while I checked the compression on cylinders and realize that valves did not sit well , took it out and send to cut seats and valves , later was alright , but this causes headache of course , greetings from Ecuador
my engine builder says the only way you know that out of the bow stuff is taking it to your real machiest and rework everything.Cànt build reàl engine without agreàt maçhine shop. you go brother
you had me giggling the entire time! I`v never built any new performance heads, but i have rebuilt some "Q" code 351c heads and did some minor porting to the D0VE 460 heads. i use dye-penetrent the same way you used the carb cleaner! [and its bright red!] I also have a very good 24" machinist square and a good flashlight to check for square. If i can clean them up enough to pass these two test, i`ll run them. If not, they go to my old machinist pal! Of course, i`m just building home-brew hotrods.
I got caught by a big name, "bolt on" horsepower... bolted them on and less or same as standard power, dropped an intake valve into #3 at 90 mph, killed my first small block ford.. Good advice, this happened to me. expensive lesson.
From years of working on Italian aluminum heads. You grind and test the valve seat with the head bolted to a torque plate always. With the head off the plate the seats may leak. Bolted down they don't. I'm not sure that it is good advice to tell people that a simple carb cleaner test on their workbench means they should send their heads back and be upset. This may not apply so much to a cast iron head. Anyway it's not bad advice to know what is going into your engine and have reputable people doing technical work.
