My Septic guy didn’t use the pipes under the chambers only pipes connecting the chambers to the septic tank. Is it standard to use pipes under the entire chamber?
I had no idea how flimsy those things are. It is easy to crush them under ground by allowing a heavy tractor to drive across the top of the field. I'd have to be crazy to use that again. It is twice the pain to dig it up and try again with something better.
My Aussie tries to herd me to the door whenever he wants to go outside or potty. Im never fast enough for him. It's the nose punts right behind the knee that gets me cracking up every time. 😄
Yes, I had to plywood my windows in preparation of Hurricane Ian....Tapcon was my choice....they held up to 155mph winds, no telling what the gust were.
It is not about how fast you can tear the house down. It is how clean can you keep the site. At final inspection the inspector will walk the entire site. If there is more than a golf ball size of debris left, he will fail the inspection. It takes more time and money to clean up a mess than it takes to tear a house down.
Sam works hard and fast. I had to tell him a couple of times to slow down to give me time to make this video. I wonder how fast he could go with a few thousand volts?
Dayton rims and tires are lighter, but take time to align them when you don't do it frequently. Budd wheels and tires are a bit heavier and if not properly torqued down the inside stud can come loose and cause a broken wheel, The plus side is they are self-aligning and self-centering. The hub-piloted are self-centering wheels. We have trucks and trailers with all three types of wheels. I don't have a favorite, but Dayton and Budds are getting less common. I think newer trucks now have Hub piloted wheels, so those are probably the best.
This is the first one that’s made sense to me. I see people putting these in with no pipes inside. Would that be another type of system. The effluent would drop at the start of the system. Thanks
When we install a system in sand, we are required by code to use pressure distribution like in this video. If it is not installed in sand are not required to put the pipes in the chambers, we have installed a lot of those systems and they perform well. But I agree with you, it would be better to have the pressure distribution. With gravity distribution only the first lines could receive liquid in them, with pressure distribution all lines get a dose of effluent at about twice a day, This will keep animals from using the dry chambers as a dump for their tunnel excavations, that could make those dry lines useless.
Man i didnt come around until 95' but this comment is spot on. I fought with these wheels in mud, rain, snow, and under the blistering sun lol worked in a metal yard and the truck that moved scrap around w/o leaving the property (meaning its waayyy overloaded 100% of the time) had these wheels on it. Cool name btw, mines Tim Mercer lol
In my state, which is New Hampshire, if the Septic Tank and/or Pumping Station are deeper than 24 inches, we can't use a 24 inch diameter Plastic Riser. Typically, that's when we use a 36 inch diameter Concrete Riser, so that it's big enough a man can get down inside it. This is especially important for a Pump Station. In fact, I recommend installing the riser off center of the manhole opening, so you create a shelf or ledge to sit on while repairing or replacing an Effluent Pump. I also recommend installing a Pressure Treated 4x4 or 4x6 next to the Pumping Station with a weatherproof electrical junction box, that keeps all the wiring dry, and accessible above ground. In this part of the country, we get lots of snow and below freezing temperatures, so you want all the wiring above the Pump Station. Making electrical connections below the ground or inside the Pump Station is not a good idea if you can avoid it. However, inside the riser can work, and that's relatively common as well these days.
Although I'm not a fan of pressure distribution systems in general, I can see where running the distribution pipes through Plastic Chambers might not be a bad idea. Nevertheless, I would still use crushed stone between the rows of Plastic Chambers and around the perimeter of Leaching Field. To be honest, I'm not a big fan of Plastic Chambers either, but they work well when installed with nice clean 3/4 inch aggregate. You could even use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" stone with Plastic Chambers, the bottom line is this, use stone! If you can't get nice clean crushed septic stone, set up a wash station, and clean it yourself... it's not that hard. Also, I recommend using filter fabric over the top of the stone, because that helps keep the stone clean and free of sediment, which can cause big expensive problems. Lastly, Vent the Leachfield/Drainfield if you want the Disposal Area to last, you need proper airflow, and venting is the ticket.
They have told us that you need pressure distribution if you are in sand. I think the chambers with stone and fabric over them is one of the best systems.
We have also used tire chips between the chambers. The tire chips are lighter, about 800 pounds per cubic yard, so you get over 3 times the material over stone. The tire chips are cheaper about $8 per ton, stone here is about $40 per ton, We can haul about 50 cubic yards of tire chips in our end dump, compared to about 17 yards of stone per load, so trucking is cheaper per ton. The chips will compact about 30% down, so you will use about 1/3 more tire chips than stone.
@buelowexcavating I've done it by spreading the aggregate material over a screen or wire mesh that's elevated above the ground, so the dirt and sediment can drain below the stone. In other words, you use a garden hose to spray the crushed stone or gravel before you use it, but it has to be able to drain away from the stone. The other option is to pile the material high enough so that after it's irrigated or thoroughly wet, you can take clean material from the top of the pile. It works pretty well if you use a sprinkler to keep the pile wet, which means you've got to have the water spraying the pile all day long, which also helps control the dust. Either way, the idea is to make sure the stone is washed clean before you use it... good luck!
It only depends how you install drain field, how often you clean your tanks, how much water you use, what you drain, and venting your leech lines during the summer.
It also depends on how clean the effluent is going into the chambers. We also install a good filter to catch the hair from the bathroom and lint from the washing machine. If someone is on strong chemotherapy or antibiotics this can ruin a drainfield in a year or two. In our area we are required to have a minimum of two 1000 gallon septic tanks. On my house I installed two 1,500 gallon septic tanks, since t didn't cost much more. The less solids that get into the drainfield the longer it will last.
I am third-generation septic installer and we have installed hundreds of these infiltrator systems and low pressure systems like what’s in this video but I still prefer the old tried and true gravel systems!!
I agree with you, that gravel is better than chambers, but when you get rock delivered with fines and dirt like we have here the system won't last a long time.
Thank you, Dayton is a brand name. The Budd Company was the first to come out with this design, it also called a stud piloted wheel. Hub piloted wheels fit tight on the hub.
For the backhoe I have about 6 buckets with teeth from 10" to 42", smooth buckets from 24" to 66", frost ripper, V bottom frost bucket, grapple. For the loader, I have two dirt buckets, a 4 in 1 bucket, forks and a 3yard snow bucket.I have quick couplers on all the buckets. I bought some off-brand buckets starting at $45. I cut off the bucket ears and get coupler ears made up for about $350 and weld them onto the bucket. That makes for some nice buckets. The 66" bucket came off a Allis Chalmers HD5 track loader.
I am guessing you are talking about the loader bucket. It is not a side dump bucket. It looks different because the bucket came off a Michigan 35 B loader. The machine is plumbed for a hammer, but I do not have one. I do have a compactor for it which is for sale.
The front bucket is not a side dump bucket. What makes it look like a side dump bucket is the quick coupler on the bucket fit the Michigan 35 B loader that I converted to fit the John Deere 710 D.
Thank you! Gutters and downspouts are a good way to get the water away from the building. I believe I have the best backfilling and waterproofing system. I will have this in upcoming videos.
@@buelowexcavating If I could suggest, have the leaders for the downspouts long, and running off the gable end, not toward the back like a gutter guy would normally do. Looking forward to watching progress on a turn-around project like this.
@@buelowexcavating It's cribbed now, so all good. I probably would have cleared one path down the middle, cribbed that, & went left to right from there, but important that it's supported now. They definitely need rain gutters, 5" downspouts, and long leads off toward the gable ends to get that roof/ tree water away from that back wall..
I had not heard that rock and pipe in trench will last longer than a chamber system. Is this actually true, and how long can a properly installed chamber system actually last?
The determining factor of how long the drainfield will last is determined by how clean the effluent is coming out of the septic tanks. Years ago I helped install a septic system installed by our trade organization. There were 2 lines of with 6" of rock , 2 lines with 12" of rock, 2 lines of chambers, and 2 lines of graveless pipe. Each line was 100' long and given the same amount of effluent for a few years. The Rock performed the best, then the chambers, then the graveless pipe it almost failed. The septic system I installed for my house about 25 years ago consists of two 1,500 septic tanks, a filter which catches hair and laundry fibers that can plug things up, and about 90' of graveless pipe. The MPCA design chart says for a 4 bedroom house with loam soil says I should have 334 lineal feet of drainfield. I have a water meter, my use varies between 125 to 500 + gallons a day not including outside spigots. I also have a garbage disposal, which some people will say you can't have. And I have a sewer ejector which pumps out fine solids that don't settle as fast. I had my tanks pumped this month, the last time was seven years ago. The first tank had a scum layer about 4" thick, the second tank had some scum patches floating in it. The time before I went many years without pumping, the scum layer in the first tank was about 10" thick with a snake and salamander living on it. How do you get clean effluent? 1-Install 2 big tanks. 2-Install a filter. 3-Don't put anything down in your tank that you have not eaten or will not eat. 4-Don't use pluggable wipes (also called flushable wipes). 5-Avoid microfiber cloths and the microbeads in toothpaste etc. 6-Keep the bugs in the tank comfortable at the right temperature, about 50 -90 degrees. In Minnesota do laundry in hot water in fall, winter and early spring. Cover the tanks and lines with leaves in the fall 7-High antibiotics or chemotherapy can kill the bugs in the tank after 1 - 2 years of use it could plug up the drainfield. Conclusion: with a proper design, in proper soil, with proper installation, with proper use, with clean effluent, it should not matter what type of drainfield medium you install. How long could a chamber system last? I have three lines about 30' long, the last line has hardly any effluent in it. So if the first two lines last 25 years, the third line maybe another 12.5 years that will give me 37.5 years. Based on my system size and the data from our trade organization experiment, I would guess that chambers would last 46 years and rock 52 years.
I would salvage aluminum, siding, appliances, furnace, AC, beams, copper, and things I could resell. I found that I could not recover the wages paid to salvage stuff and we would lose a day doing the salvaging, and I had piles of this stuff in my pole barn. When I had to scrape the ice off windows and could not leave stuff in the back of the truck because I had to park outside I got rid of all the salvaged stuff. I did save electrical breakers, boxes, and a few new or newer furnaces. We did not save wood since used wood no value unless it is special or barn siding. Before we would start a demolition, I would have an environmental survey done. They looked for asbestos, lead, mercury, paint, oils, and household chemicals that could be considered dangerous. We would remove those things and take them to a waste facility. A 30 cubic yard dumpster that we filled with wood and debris will cost us about $425. If you mix hazardous material in, then the entire dumpster material is considered hazardous. We had one job where They burned the house down to save money, they did not do a proper survey. The ash was contaminated, they wanted about $20,000 per dumpster. The people could not afford it and they lost their property. We do remove the concrete and asphalt and take it to a recycling facility. Since it is heavy we can do that ourselves cheaper ourselves than pay to have it taken out in dumpsters. Before starting a job I would let scrappers come in and take what they wanted.
Good point! I had a backhoe that the wiring harness was made too short and would rub on the bottom corner of the fuel tank. After years of rubbing the harness would catch fire.The dealer said I was lucky and replaced the wiring harness. He said if it burned long enough the flow of electricity in the wires would burn thru the fuel tank, then the fuel from the 20-gallon fuel would feed the fire and destroy the machine.
John - if you clamp 2 course push broom heads at a 45 degree angle on the return pass of the belt (inside the conveyor frame), it will knock off a lot of the build up on the underside of the belt
Yes! Old bottles, tools, shoes, dolls, dishware, live gophers, a live woodchuck, car parts, water cisterns, a Model a front axel and frame, about 2,000 tires, money, safes( nothing good in them I think one was stolen the bottom was ripped open) a rail road car scale, tunnels, shafts about 100' deep, a water turbine, & one time a dried-out cat with the center of its back humped up making it look like a scary Halloween cat.
