Dive into our top-tier DIY automotive repair videos, where expert Mechanic Dave Guggisberg shows you step-by-step how to keep your vehicle running smoothly. Whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out, you'll find the tips and tricks you need to tackle any repair job!
👉 Stay connected! Follow us on Facebook for more tips: facebook.com/gmhowto
Bro, don’t spray the cleaner on a cloth then wipe it around. You aren’t doing anything useful with that method. Imagine your car is dirty, and to clean it you get a rag wet and move it around on the surface. Now yes, some dirt may get on the rag, but most of it will just be moved around. That’s why you loosen it up with a surfactant (a soap in the case of dirt on your car or the solvents in the brake cleaner in this case) and then rinse it all away with a steady stream of water. With brake cleaner it’s both the surfactant and the stream washing away the unwanted material. You need to hose it down if you actually want to remove the oils, with your method you are leaving most of it behind. TL, DR. Hose that thing down if you actually want to remove oils.
NO RTV with cork gaskets! Spend a couple extra bucks and buy a good gasket. If you must use a gasket sealant; use a non hardening solvent based sealant like Hylomar. Permatex permashield or anaerobic gasket makers. The only place RTV belongs is in the trash.
I rarely had trouble getting a 1/4" vacuum hose off with my hand. Just give it a twist and off it comes. Going to my tool cart for the knife is 90% a waste of time.
How would you overheat the wires unless the battery is completely shorted out? Your car just won't start if your battery is low your starter won't be cranking that long
Not always a bad battery, sometimes you can have a battery draw and it can kill the battery even though the battery is still good. Other times I've seen bad battery connections. Can't jump to conclusions with a title
Nope that's the hard way to do it push the funnel in on one side and push a screwdriver in on the other side and then pop the funnel right in and pull the screwdriver out
That's over complicated I just push the funnel to one side and push a screwdriver in on the other side and the funnel pops in and then I can pull the screwdriver out
This is terrible advice use a heat gun instead. As long as the rubber isn't too old I can usually use needle nose pliers and unbind the rubber from the nipple. I suppose it's okay if your lines are junk anyways but if you're just removing them like the title says, then why not save them
If you are having problems with the blower blowing tap on the motor and if that doesn’t work hit it like it owes you money and that’s how I got mine to start blowing again
You know what? I am a regular viewer of your RU-vid Channel. I have seen all your videos and your content qualities are very good. I learned lots of things from you. Your channel has great quality contents but still it is not delivering its right audiences due to SEO problems. You should focus on your SEO so that You can get a big fanbase. Thanks.
Unleaded gasoline Pump nozzles are 3/4", Leaded Gasoline pump nozzles are 15/16" Diesel Pump nozzles are 1" LARGER than a gas nozzle. The unleaded gas filler necks were designed to be smaller so you cannot fit a leaded gas or diesel nozzle into them. Since there is no longer any highway use leaded fuel the only places that still use the 15/16" size are airports and private owned fuel pumps and tanks that weren't required to make the change over inthe 1970's. Having an open top to the fill like that looks like one of the worst ideas I've seen in a long time. What happens to the truck that spent all day running on dirt roads or some gravel pit? The outer fuel door isn't going to stop dirt and dust from collecting in there and when you get fuel, its going right in the tank. They need to get rid of DEF fluid in light duty trucks, its a waste of money and a failed design that does nothing but cost owners a ton of cash for little to no gain emission wise . For me, I'll keep my old truck till I die, which never had that crap in the first place.
Wow that was an excellent video thank you for posting. Is there any way to check fuel pumps without guage. Maybe by listening to it kick on ? I know its not the same thing as what you show in your video. My 87 f150 5.0 died on me, as i was driving. Pulled over for a few it started up went about a block and died again that happened like 5 times now she dont want to start it cranks but no start. I spayed starter fluid into intake and it started to a stumble but died right away. Any help
This video was great. I enjoyed it and felt comfortable doing the service myself. Anything to add if I'm changing my boot too? Figured I might as well while I'm there.
You can bypass the ECM controller for the fuel pumps with a jumper wire on the diagnostic connector between connector 2 and 6. Then you don’t have to dismantle the dash.
Amazingly great video thank you so much. I don't suppose you have anything you can put up on the 2015 Rogue AC resistor? I'm not able to find anything on RU-vid for that exact model and the videos I can find aren't showing the same resistor? Plus they're kind of all over the place on how to go about it. Thanks again! I'll be replacing this exact part tomorrow :)
This is an excellent walk through. I have never worked on cars (more of a computer guy), but after my wife's A/C went out, I decided to do some troubleshooting. After doing some research, it seemed clear the blower motor was dead. I bought a replacement, found this video, and managed to get it going this morning! Thank you, Dave! On a side note, your voice reminds me a lot of Coach Andy Reid. As a Chiefs fan, I find it awesome.
