I’m an old redneck from western Kentucky.. we smell hickory wood- that’s gonna draw every hungry redneck for a mile thinking they are gonna get some good BBQ😜. Great Video BBJ👍🏻 solid videos packed full of Nuggets of Knowledge
Cool video Joe. Nice bows Jason, for a Mets fan. Lol I shouldn't talk, I'm a lifelong Pirates fan. Heading to ETAR in the morning, thank you again Joe for making that string. I'll send pics from ETAR.
Awesome video love that bow ... What angle do you think the limbs are set back at? I know most normal recurves are set at 15 - 22° so I was wondering what the Super Mag is set at ... I don't own one so I can't measure it Anyway that's a beautiful bow ... God bless ya!
I have primarily hickory...hop hornbeam...and ash up here in ny. I have spotted a couple Osage trees in my travels near albany, but I have yet to ask permission to cut anything. I have had many injuries from making bows some better then others. Keep at it!!
The problem with cutting a stave that has twist in it is that it's hard not to violate growth rings. I usually split them and then follow them whichever way they go. It seems like you got some good results looking forward to seeing it tillered out.
What I found out, experienced is once you make those nice recurves use a heat gun to “ heat treat “ the recurves to ensure they maintain the nice recurve
I suppose it probably is less work, but I like to overwork everything. Lol I clean up them, splinters pretty fast with a rasp, but absolutely less work if you prepare properly. Have a good day Joe, thanks for sharing
What I found is the fabric softener and soaking really allows these boards to flex with little or no grain lift. It makes a very nice recurve. Things I learned are 1) 40 minute steam time ( pot has at least 6” of water in it.) 2) use the nylon strap attached to a block to aid in preventing grain lift.make sure the bloc / strap is tight when stave is aligned 3) bend and clamp. Don’t wiggle board once it’s clamped. Let cool. According to the moisture content you can soak the whole stave for seven days and bend both sides the same day.
I saw a guy use the packing tape with the fabric strands in it and it worked I haven’t tried it yet but I’ve wrapped thread around the staves where I knew they would splinter and it worked also but I usually start twice as thick as I want at least then when it splinters and it almost always does with some species when you remove the splinters you still have plenty of wood for your bow .
My findings are, The soaking of the kiln dried boards with fabric softener prevents lift and easies bending. with the aid of a strap. It is less work than hoping to repair lift damage.
Hi Joe. I came across your videos and really like your information and explanations. I am curious about the Gillo GT. I have read reviews saying that the riser does not accept (specifically releasing) different ILF limbs well. I'm wondering if you have experienced or heard anything like this? Anyway it is great to come across your channel and thanks for the reminder to have fun shooting. As a beginner I have been overwhelmed by trying to learn form and the reminder to have fun is really needed. thanks again.
Firstly, ebay is full of scammers and should be avoided at all costs. Secondly, buying something unseen and trusting a strangers word is a no go. Lastly, honesty is a rare human trait in 2024 and you can't trust anyone. Especially when $$$ is involved. P.S. Silicon lube would solve that squealing pully.
Hey Joe I make knots hole bows all the time hole right thru the Limb that you can see thru as big as your pinky .. I feel your pain onbuying staves I just got screwed by a guy on Etsy Osage. I stick with that knotty yew stave it should make a great bow and if I’m worried about them breaking, I could sinew around and I holes in all along the back it will look awesome. If you want to see pictures ofmy knot hole bows just reach out I’ll send
Sorry about your luck with finding wood for bows. Joe come to Kentucky and we will get you some good wood for bows.. you and I pick and cut. My farm my wood.. yours, so sad that man kind is so set on being dishonest to others.
Mr. Joe, I am a big fan of your videos and all the things you do. I had to say that so I could ask you to please WD40 your tillering machine pulley’s. The squeak is so loud in my headphones. 😂😂. I am just busting your chops. Thanks for all you do Mr. Z
@@hunterarcher11 I don't know if you intended it(I assume you did, knowing the way you name your Bows) but I immediately got "You Knotty Bow" from Yew Knotty Bow, then I thought it sounds like; You Naughty Bow! 🤣🤣🤣 but the Bow/Stave wasn't naughty, it's the bloke on ebay that sold you the shitty stave that's naughty!!! Some people have small minds and no heart nowadays. Anyway... you always end up having something unique about every Bow you've built so far!!
I'm setting my rig and have same problem. Shooting 33# @ 62'' with 700spine and no matter how long shaft is or higher spine they all seems to be stiff. I've ordered the new plate already but the feeling was right that the thing is with plunger. Thank You for wisdom!!!
Just to be clear, as you move Back, at longer ranges your arrow tracks “Left” the arrow spine is stiff add point weight to move it right. If it tracks “right” the arrow spine is weak. Lighter tip or if the arrow is long enough to safely remove 1/4” at a time it will stiffen it and move impact left. Opposite for left hand archers.
Great that worked for you. You were right, it came out very nice. I think the Cheyenne has just about the best grip for me. In fact, I am looking for another one in a different weight draw. Cheers.
