On this channel you will find a lot of useful information about the Peugeot 308 SW T9 2015 1.6 HDI 120 car. I have been using this car for a long time, since about the end of 2020, and during this time I have accumulated enough interesting information and experience. You can always check out my Patreon. There is a lot of useful and exclusive information about this car and not only.
Thank you very much for sharing your experience objectively and for the tutorial, very instructive. I am looking for the catalog you mentioned at the beginning of the video where you have all part number, maybe you can tell me where I can found it as I need to intervene on other section of my car. Thank you so much anyway for the bice titorial.
I discovered your channel and the different tutorial you made, as said thank you for the repair guide, this is really a surprise. I was looking for the diagram on chapter 1.1, I think it is missing, if it is still possible for you to add it I would be very grateful. Thank you
Superb Video! I have a 2014 308 t9 in DV6C 115HP, I have the same problem: squeaky clutch pedal, jerks when shifting gears and slippage in first gear. Unfortunately, there is no trace of the clutch replacement in the service books or invoices. I bought it at 243,000 kms, I'm now at 253,000, I've driven it a lot and my driving is pretty rough. I have to change the clutch kit + the flywheel, the plastic part of the pedal and maybe the sender-receiver... I hope the clutch isn't dead... 🤞
I have the same issue. 2.0 BlueHDI engine. I installed NEW AGR 6 months ago, new Cap, etc but i still have the same issue. every 500km i add about 0.5L antifreeze. I believe is a small leak from the radiator, and is impossible to see it., I will ask my mechanic to add some coolant sealant, and i hope it will stop.
Well, they're budget tyres so you cannot expect very much from them. If you want some summer tyres with a good price and also a good performance I recommend you Nexen N-Blue HD/HD Plus. If you have extra budget you can go for Michelin Primacy4. For winter I recommend Hankook I-Cept RS.
Hallo und danke dir für dein Video. Ich bin in Deutschland und hier ist das Wetter anders als bei Ihnen. viele Probleme habe ich wirklich nicht wie Sie mit dem Rost zb. Aber das Auto hat immer funktioniert. Noch nie eine Panne. Auch die Software Probleme wie Input habe ich auch nicht. Ich denke dies hat iel mit dem Klima bei Ihnen zutun. Der Franzose mag es warm und Trocken. Danke
I'm having trouble removing the bolt, it seems to be stuck. Is there a way to remove the bolt? could you give me any suggestion? maybe with cold or some special tool.
Hello everyone, I have been torturing myself for the last few days with trying to update 2023 maps. My SMEG+ is the version 5.1fr4. I have maps on a USB stick and I generate an activation key, but I get the message about checking my mapping database and/or my DRM code. It seems to be the wrong activation code. I did import correct smeg+ .inf file, and tried other ones as well, even the one on the root. I also have to say that I have 308 2015, but can't find any solutions at forums. Thanks a lot
Good. But other than guessing whether it's a clutch/flywheel problem or pedal/bushing or air leak/boost leak- just do a test. - While the car is idling , wiggle the tube. If the engine jerks , it's the tube(air leak). The other more reliable test is depress the pedal with "pedal depressor" so compressor will make boost and spray mix dish-soap+water around the tube. Bubbles will come if the tube is ruptured(boost leak). Sometimes there's leak , only under vacuum and not under boost. But sometimes it's the other way around. - Leak under boost and not under vacuum.
I'm sorry! You want to clean the radiator fins, you have to drain the cooling fluid and properly store it, or dispose it, depending on it's next use. Then you have to remove the radiator from the engine bay - level 2/5 dificulty. The video just shows a good deal of water waste for a marginal result; plus a good way to rust a few more nuts, bolts and damage of electrical parts. You already showed some rusty bolts. So for a DIY video what's the rush by doing the job with the part in the same place where it operates?
Hey i need help i am on a trip. I have changed the tank but did not the air. All 200 Km my coolant is completely empty but when opening the cap it comes back. Is it because of the air?
With a huge degree of probability, this is the air in the system....it is possible that gases from the EGR heat exchanger.....gases from a crack in the cylinder are also possible....If the level just drops a little, but then it comes back on its own (after some time), then this is still half the trouble (I myself have been driving like this for more than three years). But if the level decreases critically (the tank is empty), then you can boil while driving and ruin the engine!!!
Interestingly, my T09's own evaporator has a microleak, which paired with the condensator's own microleak, puts the repair budget at 2300€ 😅 thought of pulling apart the dash and seal it with fiberglass and epoxy, but looking at your own issue, it's probably... Quite the job
It is difficult to answer unequivocally. It might get better...I think until you try and find out. The only point is that the oil fits according to the tolerances, otherwise there will be problems with the environment (particulate filter). With the wrong oil, it will fail pretty quickly.
@@peugeoton4033 the 5w30 c2 compatible with DPF and it is recommended in some regions in Europe. Due to fact I'm gonna drive through Croatia, Hungary, Greece etc, it will not be an issue.
@@salimmetin Then you can try it. I just don't know what kind of problem you have with the oil leak. if the oil is "sweating" and the leak is small, then I think switching to a thicker oil will help. If the oil leak is large, it will not help:(
@@salimmetin I agree. But honestly, if it helps, it's a temporary measure. Ideally, you need to change the camshaft oil seal (if I understood correctly, it flows from it)
Thanks for the video! I have a Opel Grandland X (twin of Peugeot 3008) with the 1.6 DV6 120hp engine and the 6speed automatic gearbox from new. Currently at 95000km, I intend to keep it until 300k km.
If it's a one-time thing, that is, a one-time thing, for example, you need to get somewhere and it's warm outside (plus temperature) that's how it can be done. But you can't do this all the time - there will be problems...and with the radiator of the stove, and possibly with a pump .....water, this is as an emergency measure.
Thank you, I replaced it according to your instructions in an hour, I just didn't understand why you put the ears down, and the drawing shows the ears up? Basically, I solved the problem of clutch squealing and sticking.
Thank you! You've literally saved the headache I had for the past two years. I have disassembled a lot in the interior and reassembled again, but I couldn't find it... Really saved me from selling this car earlier than I would want... Thanks again! Btw the bolt was also missing as another commenter mentioned, strange.
Thanks! The firmware update worked for my Peugeot 308 allure (hatchback) 2013. The firmware was never updated before. By pressing the settings button for 10 seconds it showed version 2013. After the update its now om the 2017 version 🎉 I've experienced a problem before it worked for me. First try the display kept rebooting after 20 minuten. After a few times i removed the usb (DID NOT STOP THE ENGINE) and after replacing the USB and rebooting the screen by holding the Media button for 10 seconds it worked, 25 minutes later it was Done 👍 (a bit lucky maybe, guess the usb was the problem). I used a 8 Gigabyte USB. I did not get a update succesfull message or anything. I had a Media failed error message or something like it. But after restarting the car the update was succesful because when i pressed the settings button for 10 seconds it is on the 2017 version 👍 After the firmware update i was also able to do the navigation maps update and also the camera speed update! So thanks again for the very detailed video 👏👏👏
